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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever have the ball joint on the outer tie rod fail?
Any ideas what could have caused this?

I did MOOG the entire front end, but that was a while back, had to put an autozone version on to get me back running.
 
L

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Discussion Starter #2
Can you post pix?

Have you greased FE regularly :confused: .
Did ball pull entirely out of Rod?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
yea, the ball and joint completely separated. I believe I dropped the ball on this one by not keep up with front-end lub as I do the rest of my routine maintainance. I have added it to my regular schedule and will top off all the fitting every 3rd or 4th oil change. Luckly I was less then a mile from my house when it failed.
Chalk it up as a lesson learned
 
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Discussion Starter #4
WHY only grease at every 3rd or 4th oil change?
FE parts/labor are NOT cheap, besides being "Life & Death Components"!
Grease IS cheap, I grease at every change.
:eek: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE :eek:

Now inspect ALL other FE parts, because if one went bad........YOU KNOW!!


You'll also need Alignment.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Moog has a limited lifetime warranty on its parts. You should be able to return the part where you bought and exchange for a new one.

Jose
 
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Discussion Starter #6
How low is your car? Any marks on the frame or tie rod sleeves from them making contact?
Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by LarryCigar:
WHY only grease at every 3rd or 4th oil change?
FE parts/labor are NOT cheap, besides being "Life & Death Components"!
Grease IS cheap, I grease at every change.
:eek: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE :eek:

Now inspect ALL other FE parts, because if one went bad........YOU KNOW!!


You'll also need Alignment.
I get a little reluctant sometimes when it comes to grease, Ive had the dust shield split on me before there was any seepige(spelling?). I will indeed check them every oil change. Thanks for the advice. The alignment shop called and said it was ready to go so that is taken care of although he did tell me I would need an new idler arm soon:/

To Gerry,
The only marks on the frame are from tire rub if I have to make a full turns. The car is pretty low with the ST springs, but it never hits the bump stops as far as I can tell.

Thanks for the help and advice guys.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Isn't this the second MOOG failure that the forum has heard about in the last couple of months?

Things that make you go Hmmmmm :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Gotta love those American made front end parts, right Larry? ;) :D :D
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Zack, you been in the world long enough to know nothing is 100%.
I've been using Moog for 20-25 years with no probs.
You gonna guarantee those foreign outta space FE parts don't break if they're not greased?

Btw E, :eek: before I grease the Ball Joints, I feel the Boots to see if they're firm. If they are[tells you it's still packed w/grease], I skip that Joint.
You don't have popping Boot concern with Center Link, Tie Rods, or Idler. These you grease untill you see some grease come out of Boot.
Hope I informed some members, on method & importance of FE lubrication.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I rebuilt my front suspension with PST's most expensive polygraphite kit (the $360 one) at about 125k (203k now). Both my lower balljoint boots have ripped or are otherwise not doing their job. I have a new front end noise that I am very worried is the lower ball joints. I grease the crap out of the lowers and grease everything generally...I'm worried. Does anyone think I should take it up with PST? I know they have a "lifetime warranty," but if I have to send the part back before they send me another one, that doesn't really help me, does it? Not to mention, lower ball joints require a shop to press the old ones out and the new ones in, so it's a job that requires a minimum of a day's worth of downtime. Fortunately, I have a 2nd car now.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by LarryCigar:
....before I grease the Ball Joints, I feel the Boots to see if they're firm. If they are[tells you it's still packed w/grease], I skip that Joint...
Larry, its always a good idea to grease all even if they feel full. The intent is to purge old grease out so wear contaminants are removed and fresh grease is introduced.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
MR. P, not to flame you, I've been greasing this way 40+, w/o a FE part failure, so you do it like you want and I'll keep greasing as previously posted.

TO ADD: If you split the Boot[ESPECIALLY on lower BJ/s], there's a much greater chance of water/dirt entering the BJ, not good! :eek:
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Larry - I was just busting your balls.

Originally posted by Kevin Moore:
I rebuilt my front suspension with PST's most expensive polygraphite kit (the $360 one) at about 125k (203k now). Both my lower balljoint boots have ripped or are otherwise not doing their job. I have a new front end noise that I am very worried is the lower ball joints. I grease the crap out of the lowers and grease everything generally...I'm worried. Does anyone think I should take it up with PST? I know they have a "lifetime warranty," but if I have to send the part back before they send me another one, that doesn't really help me, does it? Not to mention, lower ball joints require a shop to press the old ones out and the new ones in, so it's a job that requires a minimum of a day's worth of downtime. Fortunately, I have a 2nd car now.
Kevin,

I am an authorized PST retailer, but unless you bought it from me (which, looking through my records, I don't believe you did), I can't do the warranty exchange for you.

I would definitely recommend taking it up with PST.

We sell PST's front end kits but have recently started having our own kits manufactured. If it turns out to be a bad ball joint, let me know if there's anything I can do for you. Our new design solves the exact problem you mentioned.

If it is indeed a bad ball joint, PST does have a lifetime warranty and it does seem like your claim would apply, but I can't speak for them.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Kevin, if you decide to seek warranty compensation from PST, they may deny it, since Boot was split[overgreased?]. But you can try.

There are too many Bonehead Grease Monkeys
out there, that are either incompetent or just hate their job & don't care, or both.
This is why you should do your own lube, or FIND a conscientious mechanic who is carefull not to overgrease & bust out those Boots[BJ].

Anyone going to Quick Lube shops :mad: , I especially wish you good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Larry,

It sure seems like overgreasing could have caused the problem, but from the way So FaSSt makes it sound, I may have just exacerbated an existing weakness in the boot design by overgreasing. I don't think I overgrease though. I meant I grease the crap out of the lowers since the boot split, to get fresh grease in there. Hell, the last time I greased my front end, I think I was working on a tie-rod end. During the first few pumps of the grease gun I actually saw WATER come out of the grease boot. So certainly pressurized greasing CAN be useful to purge contaminents and old grease.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
It seems there's a little bit of miscomunication here.
I'll try & state my greasing method clearer.

On all Steering Component Joints, EXCEPT Lower Ball Joints(LBJ), I over-grease till any water/contaminated grease is expelled. This is especially true for the 'Outter Tie Rod Ends', which seem to be the Joints most susceptible to water infiltration[over-grease these well],

The Lower Ball Joints(LBJ), have :eek: sealed Boots :eek: , and I only grease till Boot is firm "to touch". Over-greasing LBJ's will result in splitting Boot[DON'T BUST DA BOOT
]!

The Upper Ball Joints have a small grease release hole[facing away from wheel], so I grease these till I see a little coming out of hole.

I hope this explaination has put us on the same page.
Any other opinions are welcome. :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Ah, I understand now. Sealed boots vs unsealed. If I end up fixing this, I'll be sure to be more careful in the future.
 
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