Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-65205/

Anyone have any info on this? Know if its a good route to go? can I get the same kind power going a cheaper route? Do yall if it produces the power it claims without changing anything else on the stock lt1? Im only trying to get 375 to 400hp max and torque machine for those red lights to red lights on a $3500 budget. Or should I concentrate more on putting whatever hp that i have now to the rear wheel as much as possible then build up on the engine? Im Allready ordering the genII try-y's pcm tuned cold air intake and 58mm throttle body. No cats and 40 series flows x piped. I also want to put as much of this hp to the ground as I can until i can get more money and really put almost all of it to the ground. What are you guys opinions?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
That thing has been brought up several times. it usualy gets a cold, mocking response. Its really aimed at someone who wants to transplant an lt1 into something that never had one, not an existing lt1 vehicle. As far as performance, the factory lt1 pcm does a pretty good job up to 7000 rpm, and a tune is a tune. Their test was probably an engine dyno W/O accesories, so the hp may add up with the cam, but you still cant magicaly "add" hp, you are just maxing out/unlocking all the potential a conservative one size fits all tune leaves on the table, not adding/tuning hp you dont have the mechanical means to produce in the first place. For that kind of cash, save up a little more, have your heads ported and get a head-matched cam and a real tune, and make some real hp, or get a blower!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,720 Posts
Gears, Convertor, bolt-on's, & a good tune..skip the 58mm TB for now, you really don't need that until you are way above 400hp.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,691 Posts
Get a good heads/cam set up. Search AI or LE since these 2 are the most popular.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That thing has been brought up several times. it usualy gets a cold, mocking response. Its really aimed at someone who wants to transplant an lt1 into something that never had one, not an existing lt1 vehicle. As far as performance, the factory lt1 pcm does a pretty good job up to 7000 rpm, and a tune is a tune. Their test was probably an engine dyno W/O accesories, so the hp may add up with the cam, but you still cant magicaly "add" hp, you are just maxing out/unlocking all the potential a conservative one size fits all tune leaves on the table, not adding/tuning hp you dont have the mechanical means to produce in the first place. For that kind of cash, save up a little more, have your heads ported and get a head-matched cam and a real tune, and make some real hp, or get a blower!
So you dont think 3500 will get me to the range and goal im tryin to achieve?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,691 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,750 Posts
Gears [and Posi], Convertor, bolt-on's, & a good tune..skip the 58mm TB for now, you really don't need that until you are way above 400hp.
......have your heads ported and get a head-matched cam and a real tune.....
OK.....Bryant......if I were in your shoes, this is what I'd do:

First, I'd do what Gregg-O suggested......except I'd get a 52mm TB. A 58mm TB isn't really necessary for your goals and arguable wouldn't add anything over a 52mm TB if you go with basic bolt-ons and even with most heads/cam kits.

Second, I'd look into a heads/cam package from Lloyd Elliot or AI.....plus some 30LB injectors, preferable, SVOs (and yes, you need a fresh tune for the heads/cam/injectors). That should get you realistically to 375 HP/TQ at the wheels.

Third. I'd start saving for a performance transmission, because it'll only be a matter of time. As a matter of fact, it might even be a good idea to do a performance tranny BEFORE the heads/cam......but that'll depend on what's most important to you Right Now......power, or reliability.

Have fun!!

KW
 

· Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK.....Bryant......if I were in your shoes, this is what I'd do:

First, I'd do what Gregg-O suggested......except I'd get a 52mm TB. A 58mm TB isn't really necessary for your goals and arguable wouldn't add anything over a 52mm TB if you go with basic bolt-ons and even with most heads/cam kits.

Second, I'd look into a heads/cam package from Lloyd Elliot or AI.....plus some 30LB injectors, preferable, SVOs (and yes, you need a fresh tune for the heads/cam/injectors). That should get you realistically to 375 HP/TQ at the wheels.

Third. I'd start saving for a performance transmission, because it'll only be a matter of time. As a matter of fact, it might even be a good idea to do a performance tranny BEFORE the heads/cam......but that'll depend on what's most important to you Right Now......power, or reliability.

Have fun!!

KW
Reliability is deff most important. I dont want to have a fast car sittin in the driveway beceause I didnt do something right. I wanna get it right the first time. I might just look into my trans being built before the engine. and do my rear to. Im just looking for the best option and the smartest route. But Im kind of scared to touch my trans because it runs good now and im seeing stories left and right of how ppl get theres built and they they have to go back 3 or 4 times to get something fixed. it sounds like those trans jobs are dangerous
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,750 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,750 Posts
well there goes most of it.lol but shipping would be a pane
Why?

CPT offers free shipping......and I'm betting that Pro-Built's shipping costs isn't an arm or a leg.

KW
 

· Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Why?

CPT offers free shipping......and I'm betting that Pro-Built's shipping costs isn't an arm or a leg.

KW
Even if shipping were a couple hundred dollars that is MUCH cheaper than only getting a year out of some local hack job.

I spent $1700 locally on a "built" 4L60E and behind no power to speak of got 17 months out of it. The tranny I currently have from ProBuilt currently sells for $1975 and in december will be 6 years old. So the local rebuild cost me $100 for every month I got out of it. The ProBuilt cost me $34 for every month SOFAR that number goes down every month longer it lasts. So it has been a MUCH better value.

There are a lot of shops that pretend to be good with a 4L60E but relatively few are genuinely good with it. For the last 4 years the ProBuilt tranny has seen the car into the 11s every fall so it is seeing some decent power.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Even if shipping were a couple hundred dollars that is MUCH cheaper than only getting a year out of some local hack job.

I spent $1700 locally on a "built" 4L60E and behind no power to speak of got 17 months out of it. The tranny I currently have from ProBuilt currently sells for $1975 and in december will be 6 years old. So the local rebuild cost me $100 for every month I got out of it. The ProBuilt cost me $34 for every month SOFAR that number goes down every month longer it lasts. So it has been a MUCH better value.

There are a lot of shops that pretend to be good with a 4L60E but relatively few are genuinely good with it. For the last 4 years the ProBuilt tranny has seen the car into the 11s every fall so it is seeing some decent power.

wow i didnt know they where free shipping. well that will be the first thing i buy. and maybe a torque converter to. anyone know about these?
http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/...products_id=47
 

· Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
...I'd get a 52mm TB. A 58mm TB isn't really necessary for your goals and arguable wouldn't add anything over a 52mm TB if you go with basic bolt-ons and even with most heads/cam kits...
+1

I am making 501 RWHP with a stock throttle body ported to 52mm.

I would get an eaton posi and 3.73 gears first, then a CPT 4L60E and an Edge converter. Starting at the rear and working your way forward is the best way to modify B-bodies.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
+1

I am making 501 RWHP with a stock throttle body ported to 52mm.

I would get an eaton posi and 3.73 gears first, then a CPT 4L60E and an Edge converter. Starting at the rear and working your way forward is the best way to modify B-bodies.

I was also thinking of going that route. when you get your throttle body ported. to you take it to a machine shop and tell them you want it ported to 52mm? is that a cheaper yet still god route to go?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top