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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Bought my 1995 SS back in September of 2021. Around November I went to start it and got nothing but a click. Ordered a starter from rockauto.com p/n 17468N car fired right up. About 2 weeks later same thing. Went to go start it but nothing. The company Pure Energy sent me another starter. Installed it, fired right up went to the gas station , got gas and went to start it, and got the exact same thing. Got a jump and it fired up. Took it home, cut it off tried to start it and boom, same thing.

Bought a interstate battery new, fired it up and started. Ran for about a month and same thing. I did a parasitic draw test with a test light and found thst when i pulled the Clus-Chim 10a fuse the test light went out. So I then put the fuse back in, test light came back on, removed the green chime box and the test light went out. While keeping the chime box out, I charged my battery. Installed the batter and same thing. No crank. But the lights, fuel pump radio, etc.. still function as normal. I'm not giving up on my dream car at all. Any suggestion would be very helpful. Thanks all!
 

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Check the connections for your ground straps. They can get corroded and cause these types of problems.
 
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I did a parasitic draw test with a test light and found thst when i pulled the Clus-Chim 10a fuse the test light went out.
Sorry I have to ask. Did you do this with the door open or closed?

If you did your test with the door open you were just seeing the interior light load.

Please fill out your no start problem with battery and alternator voltages.

I charged my battery. Installed the batter and same thing. No crank. But the lights, fuel pump radio, etc.. still function as normal.
The first check would be to go under the car with a test light and confirm the starter is getting power from the key start circuit. (turn key see the light go on) In rare cases the power from the battery is not able to go to the main starter power. If the key circuit is working try the test light on the large power stud. If the light goes out when you try to start you have a power cable problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry I have to ask. Did you do this with the door open or closed?

If you did your test with the door open you were just seeing the interior light load.

Please fill out your no start problem with battery and alternator voltages.


The first check would be to go under the car with a test light and confirm the starter is getting power from the key start circuit. (turn key see the light go on) In rare cases the power from the battery is not able to go to the main starter power. If the key circuit is working try the test light on the large power stud. If the light goes out when you try to start you have a power cable problem.
Sorry I have to ask. Did you do this with the door open or closed?

If you did your test with the door open you were just seeing the interior light load.

Please fill out your no start problem with battery and alternator voltages.


The first check would be to go under the car with a test light and confirm the starter is getting power from the key start circuit. (turn key see the light go on) In rare cases the power from the battery is not able to go to the main starter power. If the key circuit is working try the test light on the large power stud. If the light goes out when you try to start you have a power cable problem.
Yes I did check it with the door open but I pushed in the door switch. Even before pulling any fuses the test light was on. When I removed the 10a fuse with the door switch pushed in the test light went out.

I did noticed a clicking sound coming from a replay below the green chime box. Put my finger over top of it and I could really feel the clicking. With the door switch pushed in I removed that relay and the test light and clicking stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry I have to ask. Did you do this with the door open or closed?

If you did your test with the door open you were just seeing the interior light load.

Please fill out your no start problem with battery and alternator voltages.


The first check would be to go under the car with a test light and confirm the starter is getting power from the key start circuit. (turn key see the light go on) In rare cases the power from the battery is not able to go to the main starter power. If the key circuit is working try the test light on the large power stud. If the light goes out when you try to start you have a power cable problem.
The relay that was clicking was the courtesy lamp relay under the dash.
 

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Yes I did check it with the door open but I pushed in the door switch. Even before pulling any fuses the test light was on. When I removed the 10a fuse with the door switch pushed in the test light went out.

I did noticed a clicking sound coming from a replay below the green chime box. Put my finger over top of it and I could really feel the clicking. With the door switch pushed in I removed that relay and the test light and clicking stopped.
The door switches go to the chime box which connects to the courtesy light relay. See diagram. They will draw some power but you are not taking amp readings so I do not know if the circuit is operating normally.


You can remove the chime box or the relay for testing.

If your car does not start with a good (charged and tested) battery the courtesy light circuit is not the problem. If you do have a parasitic draw it will take out the battery over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The door switches go to the chime box which connects to the courtesy light relay. See diagram. They will draw some power but you are not taking amp readings so I do not know if the circuit is operating normally.


You can remove the chime box or the relay for testing.

If your car does not start with a good (charged and tested) battery the courtesy light circuit is not the problem. If you do have a parasitic draw it will take out the battery over time.
At the battery it is 12.6 I have not checked the voltage to the starter. I did however check my grounds. And for some odd reason the ground from thr back of the cylinder head to the fire wall was completely missing. Not sure if this is the cause of my problems but I will be putting a new ground strap there.
 

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for some odd reason the ground from thr back of the cylinder head to the fire wall was completely missing. Not sure if this is the cause of my problems but I will be putting a new ground strap there.
It will be a new addition. The normal b body cars never had one. It may have been part of a 9C1 package(police) which was never combined with a Impala.

The two stock factory b body grounds are the block and the fender. If you do not verify operation of the fender ground before adding a extra one you risk creating a new ground path battery-block-firewall when GM engineered the path to be battery-fender and battery-block. This will add extra load to the ground wire going to the block if the fender ground does not work.

The block-firewall strap was a two way radio interference reducer not a power path. The police cars also had ground straps to the hood and trunk to reduce two way radio problems. I can not remember which but ford or GM also had ground straps at the tail pipes for police cars.
 

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It will be a new addition. The normal b body cars never had one. It may have been part of a 9C1 package(police) which was never combined with a Impala.

The two stock factory b body grounds are the block and the fender. If you do not verify operation of the fender ground before adding a extra one you risk creating a new ground path battery-block-firewall when GM engineered the path to be battery-fender and battery-block. This will add extra load to the ground wire going to the block if the fender ground does not work.

The block-firewall strap was a two way radio interference reducer not a power path. The police cars also had ground straps to the hood and trunk to reduce two way radio problems. I can not remember which but ford or GM also had ground straps at the tail pipes for police cars.
Both my 94 and 96 B4U(a stock original 20k mile car) cars have a traditional flat copper ground strap from driver side rear of cyl head to firewall.The firewall mounting location is up near top of fire wall.
Jim
 

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Both my 94 and 96 B4U(a stock original 20k mile car) cars have a traditional flat copper ground strap from driver side rear of cyl head to firewall.The firewall mounting location is up near top of fire wall.
Jim

I will check my L99 and my B4U(1994s) again but I did not find the strap. I can not find it on a GM or Mitchell circuit diagram. I looked at the component views nothing there that I could find.

I do not doubt they are on your cars. Could you point me towards where they are documented?
 

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Here's pictures. 3 of my 94,and 3 of my 96. One pic is an overview for location.The other 2 pics are each end of the strap.They are mounted/bolted exactly the same way. Here's the 94 pics.
Definitely factory assembled.The firewall insulation has round cutout for this ground.
 

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I will check my L99 and my B4U(1994s) again but I did not find the strap. I can not find it on a GM or Mitchell circuit diagram. I looked at the component views nothing there that I could find.

I do not doubt they are on your cars. Could you point me towards where they are documented?
And same pic views of my 96.
I have not ever researched for this ground connection in the service manuals.The firewall strap attachment is a stud with nut style.I have not ever looked on interior side of firewall to see how the stud is attached or even goes through firewall.
Jim
 

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