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Discussion Starter #1
Warning light has popped up on the dash. Car starts and runs fine. Checked a spare key that I had and same fault light shows up on the dash. Any ideas?
 

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I had the PASS KEY light on and it started fine for a long time. Never had issues but I was always worried it wouldn't start at an inopportune moment, so I disabled the theft deterrent module (TDM). Super easy. It does require you to have VATS tuned out of the car. If you've had a mail order tune, some tuners do it by default. If you don't have a tune yet, now is the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, not familiar with the TDM and VATS tune. Can you elaborate a little more? Is there any other way to disable this light? Have yet to try the contact cleaner route.
 

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Would mass airflow sensor cleaner work also? That's all I have at the moment.
CRC MAF cleaner is electrical cleaner. MAF has electronics/circuits which is why this must be used. do not use any acetone products .. read the label on any cleaner cans...
 

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Sorry, not familiar with the TDM and VATS tune. Can you elaborate a little more? Is there any other way to disable this light? Have yet to try the contact cleaner route.
you can disable the light by removing it. You can resolve the underlying issue by trying to clean the pellet or ignition cylinder. You can use isopropyl alcohol 99% as well. Or you can disable the TDM. The way to do it comes up in a search.

You can essentially fix the pass key fault issue for 0$, provided VATS is disabled in your .bin.

- Disable VATS in tune. If you've had your car tuned, hopefully it's already done. IIRC PCM4less does it automatically.
- move your driver's seat back and lie on your back looking under the dash. Over the E-brake, there's a black box held on by 1x 7mm screw. That is the Theft Deterrent Module (TDM) Remove the screw, drop the box. Detach the relay from the box but leave the relay connected. Remove the connector to the TDM, then jumper A4 to B5 (yellow/gray to black/white). http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/impala_passkey_no_seo.pdf

See this post for pic of the TDM: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/11949745-post210.html << found in search
user TGO's method works, but is a more complicated way of doing the same thing.

You can also use the resistor method, but I don't like it because it's more complicated for no reason. By disabling your car can be started with any correctly cut key, with or without pellets. The Pass Key Fault light will no longer illuminate, nor will the TDM disable injectors or starter.
 

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Can I determine the resistance of my key/pellet via ohmmeter?

you still have this problem ? check that all your keys have the same resistance.

now if you did spray electrical contact cleaner in the key hole and still the light many have had these resistor pellet worn then poor contact in the key hole . I have the chart for the resistance / key to be used . not good using a key ring with other keys wearing at these pellets.

my keys are 1700 ohms..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, still have the problem. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the keyhole and have tried the spare key to no avail. The passkey fault light does not flash, it stays on constantly. I am able to start the car no problem. The measured resistance is 9.42kOhms for the regular key that I use and 9.52 kOhm for the spare. If I go the resistor route to fix this issue, what resistance resistor should I use to accommodate both keys?
 

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Yes, still have the problem. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the keyhole and have tried the spare key to no avail. The passkey fault light does not flash, it stays on constantly. I am able to start the car no problem. The measured resistance is 9.42kOhms for the regular key that I use and 9.52 kOhm for the spare. If I go the resistor route to fix this issue, what resistance resistor should I use to accommodate both keys?
the key resistance of 9.5K is exactly the perfect resistance for key #14. the range of resistance is 9.15 to 9.9 K ohms.

so if you install the 9.5K resistor across the theft deterrent module B8 to B7 .. B8 is white/black to B7 purple/white which is ground. now if that works and the light goes out after a few minutes then the lock cylinder or wires to the module are bad...

if the light still stays on with the resistor installed then the module has a defect . check connections down there ..

use a key with no pellet to do this ..

the other reason is the pellet on key is worn down so a bad connection in the lock cylinder...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can someone please explain to me what the difference is between a constant Pass key fault light on the dash (which still allows the car to start and run) as opposed to a flashing Pkf light that does NOT allow the car to start/run? I have the constant light and the car starts/runs. Should I do something about this or should I proceed with the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it" mentality?
 

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Can someone please explain to me what the difference is between a constant Pass key fault light on the dash (which still allows the car to start and run) as opposed to a flashing Pkf light that does NOT allow the car to start/run? I have the constant light and the car starts/runs. Should I do something about this or should I proceed with the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it" mentality?
your problem is the light is on all the time .as I explained put the resistor in and using a key with NO pellet see if the light goes out .... if the light stays on and you install the resistor as I stated then the module is f 'ed up..

no start / light flashing is not your problem but the key could be worn out ..also...
 

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Can someone please explain to me what the difference is between a constant Pass key fault light on the dash (which still allows the car to start and run) as opposed to a flashing Pkf light that does NOT allow the car to start/run? I have the constant light and the car starts/runs. Should I do something about this or should I proceed with the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it" mentality?
Our owners manuals are an excellent reference source.In both the 96 Caprice and Impala SS owners manuals, on pages 2-11 and 2-60,fully explain the difference btw the 2 pass key lights.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Our owners manuals are an excellent reference source.In both the 96 Caprice and Impala SS owners manuals, on pages 2-11 and 2-60,fully explain the difference btw the 2 pass key lights.

Jim
I could not find a section 2 in the B Body Manual (either in books 1 or 2 or the supplemental book). I only have the 95 manuals. Not sure if that makes a difference.
 

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Our owners manuals are an excellent reference source.In both the 96 Caprice and Impala SS owners manuals, on pages 2-11 and 2-60,fully explain the difference btw the 2 pass key lights.
Jim

He is referencing the OWNERS MANUALS

If you can still start the car the VATS is not seeing any resistance.
If the VATS is seeing a wrong resistance you could not start the car.

At the lock cylinder there are two contacts connected to a orange cable(most factory cars maybe white). This goes down the column to a plug with a white/black and purple/white wire.

Unplug the connector.

Use a ohm meter to test if a your key in the lock cylinder shows the key's resistance when measured at the orange plug. No resistance on the orange means bad contacts at the lock cylinder or a broken wire.

If you can measure the key at the orange cable try this:
Buy a pack of mixed resistors. Google ohms law and make a resistor to match your key. Wire this to the white/black and purple/white wire connector does the VATS light go out?

Do you have a remote starter or alarm system connected to the VATS wires?
 

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I could not find a section 2 in the B Body Manual (either in books 1 or 2 or the supplemental book). I only have the 95 manuals. Not sure if that makes a difference.
I said owners manual.....not service manuals. Sorry if it wasn't clearly written.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have the GM VSS-150 factory alarm system installed in the car. This system was already installed when I bought the car so I'm not really sure if this system is connected to the VATS wires.
 

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Usually problems occur with badly installed systems. Do the basic checks and do not worry about the alarm system unless you find extra wires added to the VATS wires.

My suggested tests will suggest what parts are at fault, column or VATS.
 
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