pass key fix
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Wish I copied who posted this. All I can say is it wasnt me but thanks this works fine
Procedure:
1. Use a voltmeter to reads the ohms from the chip in your key by placing one lead on one side and the other lead on other side of the chip.
2. After determining your ohmage, get resistor(s) that equal the ohmage you need.
Ex: Mine was 1.1 Kohm. So I got a 1 K resistor and a 100 ohm resistor.
3. If you only need one resistor, go on to step 4. If you need multiple resistors, tie the resistors together as a chain link. DO NOT lay them side by side and twist together. A little solder will help hold these together.
4. Unplug the harness (above) located under the steering column. Insert one end of the resistor chain into one hole of the [prpl/wht & blk/wht] harness leading to the module. Then plug the other end into the other hole. The snugness of these wires may not be sufficient so hold them in place with some electrical tape.
5. Insert you key and attempt to start your engine.
If it works: The car will crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will go out. So then cover the resistors with tape and do not allow them to touch each other w/ the exception of the solder spot. Zip-tie the wires out of the way so they won't get snagged by anything else. After you do this be sure it still works and that you haven’t altered anything in the process of cleaning up.
If it doesn’t work: The car will not crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will blink repeatedly or will stay on. If it blinks repeatedly, you are not getting a connection. Get a second hand to turn the key while you hold your resistors in place. Keep trying until it works or the LED at least stays on even though the car may not crank.
If it works, see above. If it doesn’t…..cry like a baby. Just kidding, it will be because your ohms are off. Be sure your voltmeter is working properly (if you have one with a needle, make sure it is set at 0 with your adjustment knob) and then double-check your ohmage from the chip in your key. Then repeat procedure.
*By chance, the car cranks but the LED stays on. It is because your ohms are slightly off. In other words, it is sensing that your key chip is losing its “luster” and that you need a new one but it’s going to crank anyways. You do not need a new key, but you do need to recheck your ohms and repeat the process.
Note: I went ahead and cut the 2 white wires and soldered in the resistors. It made for a perfect connection. BUT I made sure I had the correct ohmage and that it worked before I went ahead with it.
Procedure:
1. Use a voltmeter to reads the ohms from the chip in your key by placing one lead on one side and the other lead on other side of the chip.
2. After determining your ohmage, get resistor(s) that equal the ohmage you need.
Ex: Mine was 1.1 Kohm. So I got a 1 K resistor and a 100 ohm resistor.
3. If you only need one resistor, go on to step 4. If you need multiple resistors, tie the resistors together as a chain link. DO NOT lay them side by side and twist together. A little solder will help hold these together.
4. Unplug the harness (above) located under the steering column. Insert one end of the resistor chain into one hole of the [prpl/wht & blk/wht] harness leading to the module. Then plug the other end into the other hole. The snugness of these wires may not be sufficient so hold them in place with some electrical tape.
5. Insert you key and attempt to start your engine.
If it works: The car will crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will go out. So then cover the resistors with tape and do not allow them to touch each other w/ the exception of the solder spot. Zip-tie the wires out of the way so they won't get snagged by anything else. After you do this be sure it still works and that you haven’t altered anything in the process of cleaning up.
If it doesn’t work: The car will not crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will blink repeatedly or will stay on. If it blinks repeatedly, you are not getting a connection. Get a second hand to turn the key while you hold your resistors in place. Keep trying until it works or the LED at least stays on even though the car may not crank.
If it works, see above. If it doesn’t…..cry like a baby. Just kidding, it will be because your ohms are off. Be sure your voltmeter is working properly (if you have one with a needle, make sure it is set at 0 with your adjustment knob) and then double-check your ohmage from the chip in your key. Then repeat procedure.
*By chance, the car cranks but the LED stays on. It is because your ohms are slightly off. In other words, it is sensing that your key chip is losing its “luster” and that you need a new one but it’s going to crank anyways. You do not need a new key, but you do need to recheck your ohms and repeat the process.
Note: I went ahead and cut the 2 white wires and soldered in the resistors. It made for a perfect connection. BUT I made sure I had the correct ohmage and that it worked before I went ahead with it.
As far as I know you can't. It's not part of the PCM programming. The passkey security uses a different module/computer (behind the glovebox).
I went to a junkyard and got the lock cylinder side of the plug mentioned above. Then I found the correct resistor, soldered it to the junkyard pigtail and connected it up.
This gives me two things. 1. I can easily disable the car simply by reaching under the dash and pulling the "resistor pigtail" off. 2. I didn't make a permanent change to the car so I can always fix the shorted wire in the column (or replace the cylinder) and go back to stock.
Just keep in mind. If your insurance company has "theft deterrent" on your policy and for any reason, you alter or circumvent it, if your car is stolen they will deny your claim.
So, either fix the passkey problem, remove that item from your policy or take a chance your car is stolen and they figure out the passkey wasn't working.
I went to a junkyard and got the lock cylinder side of the plug mentioned above. Then I found the correct resistor, soldered it to the junkyard pigtail and connected it up.
This gives me two things. 1. I can easily disable the car simply by reaching under the dash and pulling the "resistor pigtail" off. 2. I didn't make a permanent change to the car so I can always fix the shorted wire in the column (or replace the cylinder) and go back to stock.
Just keep in mind. If your insurance company has "theft deterrent" on your policy and for any reason, you alter or circumvent it, if your car is stolen they will deny your claim.
So, either fix the passkey problem, remove that item from your policy or take a chance your car is stolen and they figure out the passkey wasn't working.
I tired to fix this today. I measured the resistance of my key at 1464 ohms. I bought 1K and 470 ohm resistors from Radio Shack. I soldered them together in parallel, like in the pics from sofasst.com. Doesnt work. I measured the resistance of what I put together and its 979 ohms. Do I solder them in series to get 1470 ohms? Is this what step #3 refers to? What am I missing here?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Joined
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290 Posts
Yes thats correct
Thanks for that! I soldered a 1k and a 470 in series. Now I get 1435 ohms. My key is 1464 ohms, so I thought I would be close enough. However, the "5% tolerance" puts the resistance still too low. The 1k measures by itself only 979 ohms.
How exactly should I connect the resistors to the connector under the dash? The end going to the module is the male end. I am not able to get a good connection to even test the new resistors.
I am NOT cutting the little white wires going to the ignition switch 'till I know it works!!
Has anyone suggested or tried something crazy like knocking the resistor out of the key and soldering it between the wires? Problem solved!
How exactly should I connect the resistors to the connector under the dash? The end going to the module is the male end. I am not able to get a good connection to even test the new resistors.
I am NOT cutting the little white wires going to the ignition switch 'till I know it works!!
Has anyone suggested or tried something crazy like knocking the resistor out of the key and soldering it between the wires? Problem solved!
Joined
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290 Posts
Use a couple of jumpers & connect each end of the resistor setup into the little white wire connector after you unplug thsteering column side.
After your happy it works you can either fix it permanantly like that or take the steering column side, cut the wires & tie THOSE to the resistors
If you really overthink this you could unplug that as a kill switch cause you know by doing this you've defeated the pass key part of the theft detterent
Sorry for the spelling kinda rushed
After your happy it works you can either fix it permanantly like that or take the steering column side, cut the wires & tie THOSE to the resistors
If you really overthink this you could unplug that as a kill switch cause you know by doing this you've defeated the pass key part of the theft detterent
Sorry for the spelling kinda rushed
Update!!
I got it to work by sliding the resistors in the module plug a few different ways. Once satisfied, I stripped the wires without cutting them, soldering the resistors on, then taped and tied it up out of the way.
Thanks for the quick replies. I feel much more confident about this mod.
Great idea for a kill switch. At least then I'll still have some theft deterrent.
I got it to work by sliding the resistors in the module plug a few different ways. Once satisfied, I stripped the wires without cutting them, soldering the resistors on, then taped and tied it up out of the way.
Thanks for the quick replies. I feel much more confident about this mod.
Great idea for a kill switch. At least then I'll still have some theft deterrent.
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