[BIGBODY 94]

UPDATE-i found another plug that had alot of wire on each side at the junkyard, i twisted the purple and white wire together with the wires i cut under the dash and now the other end wich is the orange side i had put my key pellet on each side of the white wires and its pass light still flashing????it use to just start up when i had it on the puple/white wire itselfcwm3

 

[Darigaaz]

If that works then you are good. You only need to put a resistor pack on the purple and white wires going to the VATS module.

 

[BIGBODY 94]

just to get it right,when you say the wires, the purple wire with the white line and the white wire with the black line n are the ones you talking about correct

 

[Darigaaz]

Correct, splice it going towards the VATS module.

 

[BIGBODY 94]

ok great pic, luckly i had 2 spare keys,i heard you can heat up the key and pop out the pellet the resistor and solder it to the wires,the key should still work with the whole in it because theres no use for it since its being bypassed

 

[BIGBODY 94]

THIS WAS MY ISSUE WITH MY CAR,i bought my 96 with the all keys being lost from owner that he bought it from auction,well i bought a 94 steering column with the original key and ccm. installed both column and the ccm.the car would start up but wont turn on,ok so i thought it had something to do with the fault key but i thought if it was fault key it woulnt start period? but i bypassed it anyways and the car still wont cut on???

 

[Jonss]

I found this website about the pass key problem

Could help

http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/

 

[viperrgh2]

careful when having a remote starter installed in one of these cars most shops bypass the system permanently in order to make the remote start work...

 

[Al Q]

Resistor Didn't Work

I've been fighting the Pass Key Fault on a 96 SS. My key is a #2 523 ohms, so I soldered two resistors together got exactly 523 ohms and soldered it to the connector. Pass key light still on and car won't start. Turns over but acts like the fuel has been cut off.
The pass key had been on for about three weeks. I drove the car about a hundred yards parked ,idled rough and quit. Wouldn't restart.
Do I need to do the reprogram steps, have I misdiagnosed the problem?
Any help from someone who solved same issue would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Al Q]

Won't Start

Pass Key Fault, did everything. Made the resistor, spliced it in and did the reprogram steps 3 times. This cleared the PKF light but car won't start. I think the fuel injectors are still off. Now what?

 

[Mikeceli]

hAVE YOU measured the resistence of the pair you soldered together? (To be sure you ended up w/ want you wanted) IE Not damaged by heat, etc.

 

[Al Q]

Pass Key Fault

First , Thanks for your reply Mikeceli. I'll share what happened. I did make several resistor combos that gave me exactly 523 ohms. I also ordered from digikey the exact resistor and will put that in today. As I mentioned I also did the reprogram steps to clear the PKF light. Engine turned over but didn't start. Unplug the resistor and it wouldn't turn over, so now I know The PKF isn't the issue. As I checked my relays,fuel etc, they all worked. I checked my wires for the fuel pump it was getting a signal.
Some how when the PKF shut me down it killed the fuel pump or an incredible coincidence but the pump is dead.
I'll get a new pump today and hopefully be on the road.
Once again thanks and this is a great sight. I found good answers, part numbers, schematics and shared experiences. Couldn't have done without the forum.
Thanks Again Al

 

[blakk1]

I need HELP!!!! I did the resistor bypass....car started..I let it run for a while to charge the battery, turned it off and on a few times and it started.....I went inside for a while, came back out and I hear the timer clicking and it wont start......I have a 95 ss mostly stock....Has this happened to anybody besides me?

 

[Al Q]

Vats Issue

I know this may sound crazy but it could be your door locks. A friend of mine works on C4 vettes. The VATS system is tied to the door lock sensor. When I told him of the issue he told me to use my key and manually lock the driver door, then the passenger door. Remove the key then reinsert the key and unlock the passenger door. Then unlock the driver door with the key. Now try to start the car. It works for me almost every time. Sometimes I have to repeat the process or leave the key on for as long as a minute to allow it to read and reset. For me it is a door lock issue.
There is a contact that is made at the door to signal the door is locked and signal the vats. My key contacts in the door are wearing out.
Now I need to go back and solder my key ignition wires back to the connector. I don't need a resistor looped in circuit.
Like I said crazy but this has solved my issue.
Good Luck

 

[blakk1]

I think your on to something because the timer doesnt start until I open the door and I called a dealer and he said the same thing but he didnt tell me exactly how to do it.....so I will try soon as I charge the battery and Thanx for the info

 

[Darigaaz]

I've never heard of that to be honest. Basically the system just requires a specific resistance that is found in the key. Splicing in a resistor pack with the same resistance omits the ignition and signals an all clear to the VATS from the closed circuit. Anything beyond that, your guess is as good as mine.

 

[DWARD]

I pulled a column out of the junk yard today.... It was the right color and had a key.... I got home and toom the key out and it has the chip.... The column thats in the car now dont have the vats system.... Will i run into any problems doing the swap and can i go get a "normal" key made and it work too??

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[rydah]

I've been fighting the Pass Key Fault on a 96 SS. My key is a #2 523 ohms, so I soldered two resistors together got exactly 523 ohms and soldered it to the connector. Pass key light still on and car won't start. Turns over but acts like the fuel has been cut off.
The pass key had been on for about three weeks. I drove the car about a hundred yards parked ,idled rough and quit. Wouldn't restart.
Do I need to do the reprogram steps, have I misdiagnosed the problem?
Any help from someone who solved same issue would be appreciated.
Thanks

I have a 95 Fleetwood that did the same thing and now my car doesn't start. i even tried the resistor trick and nothing. i tried 4 diff resistors and nothing. my car takes the 887ohm and now i seem to be stuck with a 3500lbs paperweight. what other methods should i try. I just tried that door trick and nothing. I am at a loss of words now.

 

[Darigaaz]

This may sound stupid/simple but did you make sure you were splicing the line going away from the orange sleeve and towards the connector? I was original splicing towards it and after a few days of anger I realized my stupid mistake.

 

[rydah]

This may sound stupid/simple but did you make sure you were splicing the line going away from the orange sleeve and towards the connector? I was original splicing towards it and after a few days of anger I realized my stupid mistake.

I cut the orange housing and disconnected the connector and put the resistor on to the 2 white wires connected it right back and nothing. I am pretty sure I have it right. I did it the same way as the guy on youtube with the 96 Fleetwood.