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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In recent months I've been having issues with the key reader not reading my key properly so I decided that since I have my dash apart that it makes perfect sense to remedy the issue while it's a lot more accessible. I have documented with pictures each step of the way.

Here is the factory connector from the key lock cylinder.

Terminal lock removed.

Terminals removed from connector using a cutting torch tip cleaner to depress the locking tab.

Resistor bent into shape for connector.

Wires cut from terminals and resistor soldered to terminals.
 

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Where does the factory connector terminate like that? You should have the two wires in the orange sheath coming out of the steering column and then go wherever they go. not sure where that connector pictured comes in to play. I'm curious. Am I mistaken?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Where does the factory connector terminate like that? You should have the two wires in the orange sheath coming out of the steering column and then go wherever they go. not sure where that connector pictured comes in to play. I'm curious. Am I mistaken?
Yes that connector comes down the steering column and the connector is just above the brake pedal area to the right of the steering column.
 

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95 B4U Passkey Bypass

I was going to split the white wires, attach the Resistor to the white wires. Putting the Resistor right into the clip, makes a lot more sense.

maybe you can help me. im having a hard time reading the resistor on my key. the ohm reader is telling me 02.8
i know there all different but does that sound right or am i doing it wrong. thank you in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Set your DVOM to ohms and then touch one probe to one side of the "pellet" and the other probe to the other side of the "pellet" and see what it reads, 2.8 doesn't match anything on the chart.
 

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i used the wrong setting on my DVOM. the actual resistance in my key is 1.86
today i got the Resistors i needed to equal that exact value 1,860. Soldered them together. Plugged the clip back into the Harness under the dash. the pass key is no longer on, but I still can not get the car to start. i think this has something to do with the after marker kill switch some one installed.
before any of this was an issue. when the kill switch is turned off, you could not start the car and the horns go off. with the kill switch on. you can start the car with no problem. this switch is wired to the horn and i am assuming the ignition. now that this is an issue, no matter what position the kill switch is on or off the horn sounds while trying to start. if that makes any sense. i have to track down what that switch is wired to and see if that is interfering with the ignition some way.

thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm assuming you chose a resistor value that was too much then added a lower value resistor inline to drop the resistance down to what you needed?
 

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passkey

I put together a few resistors. totaling the Value I needed


The Value of my key is 1.86 / 1860
the Chart says 1870
the bypass I made is only Reading 1820


this might be my problem.


thanks Jim, I looked over all fuses. ill go over them again double checking there all good to go.
 

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I put together a few resistors. totaling the Value I needed


The Value of my key is 1.86 / 1860
the Chart says 1870
the bypass I made is only Reading 1820


this might be my problem.


thanks Jim, I looked over all fuses. ill go over them again double checking there all good to go.
Yes the 1820 could be just enough to upset it, but it looks to be within range.
 

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Yes the 1820 could be just enough to upset it, but it looks to be within range.

would there be anything else that could cause the car to act the same way as this. it doesn't even attempt to crank what so ever
Im starting to think it has something to do with the after market kill switch that was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
would there be anything else that could cause the car to act the same way as this. it doesn't even attempt to crank what so ever
Im starting to think it has something to do with the after market kill switch that was installed.
Get back to the basics and remove any alarm or kill switch THEN go about diagnosing the no crank issue. Lots of times it is an issue with an aftermarket installed alarm.
 
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