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I put these in just the other day and sharing my thoughts on them. They are noticeably brighter compared to oe bulbs. When traveling down the road low beams only make a small difference in your ability to see. High beams on the other hand, well those kick ass!. Whether these are better than sylvania silverstar ultras, I couldn’t say as I haven’t used those in years.
 

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I recently bought a pair of LED headlights, and they are bright enough that they will light up street signs a quarter of a mile ahead. They also draw about half of the current of the standard type bulbs, putting less strain on the harness. I really like the LED headlights, and will not go back to the standard type bulbs. The light is at least 4X the original bulbs. I got a set for my other wagon as well. An 80 watt set is sufficient, but they make them in higher wattage as well. The price is anywhere from $15-50 per pair.
 

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I actually have 4 different types. I have a three LED style, a three LED style. They range from 80W to 125W. The higher wattage are much brighter. You can get from 3000K-10000K color temperature. Lower is more yellow higher is more white~blue, 4000 is about the same as sunlight. The ones I have use fans to cool the LEDs. There is a style that uses a mesh heat sink, and no fan. For the purpose of less maintenance, the one with the mesh is a good choice, but they are a recent design, and are a little more expensive.

I had one of the first pair fail. I have not checked on why it failed. I just removed it and hooked up a new one. The newer one is a different design, and a good bit brighter than the older one.

Some of them have the controller in the bulb, and the older ones have the controller in a separate box and a connector for the bulb. The ones with the controller in the bulb are easier to install, and require less space because there is no external box.

You can get different types to fit different years. Make sure you get the correct type of socket (bulb size). The ones with the separate controller use the same bulb plug, but have a different socket on the other end of the cord.

As far as which ones I have, I think they are all about the same for a given wattage. The three LED units tend to have a stronger low beam, because they use two for the low beam. The two LED have twice the light in high beam vs. low beam. There are some focus issues, but the brightness of the light is so much greater, that the focus does not matter. I just chased the lowest price. The last set I bought was $20. I made an offer (best offer) and the seller took it. He whined about not much profit, but that was his decision to accept my offer, so tough crap.
 

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I have seen the LED 9004 in heat sink and external ballast

Very familiar with color temp. My day, and often night, job is Lighting for TV/Stage.

Looking for photometric info on LED for the 9004. Ideally lumens per distance and beam spread
 

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The listings on ebay give you the lumens, which is about 100 X the wattage, but there is no information about beam spread or lumens at distance. With the original lumens, the lumens at distance should not be a problem. They tend to have a somewhat wider beam spread, because of the bulb placement in the reflector that was not originally designed to house them. I think, since you are in the stage lighting business, you are overanalyzing the project. You only need to see a marked improvement over the original bulbs. LEDs usually have about 6 X the amount of lumens per watt as the original bulbs. I am EXTREMELY happy with the amount of light, and shape of the beam on my car. They literally flood the area in front of the car with light for at least 200 feet, and light up signs an eighth of a mile away. I have only had one person flash their lights at me, and that was when I first got them. For the price of the bulbs on ebay, it is a cheap experiment, even if it does not work out.
 

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The listings on ebay give you the lumens, which is about 100 X the wattage, but there is no information about beam spread or lumens at distance. With the original lumens, the lumens at distance should not be a problem. They tend to have a somewhat wider beam spread, because of the bulb placement in the reflector that was not originally designed to house them. I think, since you are in the stage lighting business, you are overanalyzing the project. .
Well yeah given my profession I do look at lighting more clinically :)
Photometric 411 is what I use in selecting light source for work projects so was just looking if any of these LED bulbs had lumens/distance 411 vs just published lumen output from source

LED's have come a long way over the past 10 years. In my biz they had limited use initially as their output over any distance fell of considerably. Better chip sets and reflective enclosures have improved that considerably in recent years.

I now have TV and stage projects that are 100% LED source. Several TV studios have converted exclusively to LED...they went for the "green" electrical use tax card credit and WAY cooler studio temps using less air conditioning.

5600k is considered "daylight" color temp. That has a "whiter" appearance compared to incandescent, 3200k source

The Lumen output published for these automotive LED's is direct at source, not at "x" feet (distance) but yeah compared to incandescent or xenon type source they put out more lumen per watt and draw less amps

Not questioning these LED's now don't throw light brighter & further than conventional headlights, was just looking if any of the bulb manufacturers had photometric chart data like every lamp manufacturer does in my biz for lumens/distance. But it appears a picture or rendering of a "brighter" looking comparison against conventional source is all the layman consumer needs :)
 

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I just bought this set https://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-9004-HB1-LED-Headlight-Kit-980W-147000LM-Hi-Low-Beam-6000K-Car-Light-Bulbs/152694325582?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and they should be here tomorrow. Moe that was selling interior LED kits here awhile back turned me onto them and said he has them in his caprice and they are VERY bright.
will the stock wiring hold the 490w load??

Amp=Watt/Volt...(490w/12v=40.83A)

I assume the 490w rating is combined Hi & Low beam per
 

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will the stock wiring hold the 490w load??

Amp=Watt/Volt...(490w/12v=40.83A)

I assume the 490w rating is combined Hi & Low beam per
No idea but I have Gary's headlight harness so I KNOW it will work with that. I also don't believe that wattage for a minute as it's ALOT more than every other LED light out there so it's probably a typo.
 

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Here are a few pics of my new LED's installed.

First pic is right side (left as you're viewing pic) with a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb.

Second pic is right side (left as you're viewing pic) with a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb and left side (right as you're viewing pic) with my new LED posted earlier in this post.

Third pic is of both installed. The hi beams don't really do anything but the low beams are white and bright as hell.
 

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You would be happy with the 80-120 watt lights. The rating that the ebay sellers give you is the high and low for both sides. I have a standard harness, and the draw is about half of the original bulbs. The original bulbs are about 95W per side.
 

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I also don't believe that wattage for a minute as it's ALOT more than every other LED light out there so it's probably a typo.
...the wattage & lumens "typo" is throughout the product info....to me it was BS as the watt claim is considerably higher than any other LED headlight. If it was right that would be a 80 amp load on Alt for high/low beam combined both sides. Didn't see any DOT approved info for it.

A stock bulb would be 45 watt low beam and 65 watt high beam with 700 lumens

whatever watt they are glad you like them and Gary's harness is always a good upgrade
 

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I kept burning out halogen bulbs about 1 every month ever since I installed Gary's harness. I decided to check voltage to the lights last night and I get 14.5 volts to either low or hi beam with engine running. Automotive bulbs are designed to work at 13.2 volts. I did however not check the voltage with a bulb in the socket so I'm going to do that today sometime. I have read that for every 5% more voltage over the 13.2 volts supplied to a standard bulb it cuts the life of the bulb in half. With that said if the running voltage is 14.5 volts that theoretically should cut the bulbs life down to 25% of normal expectancy. LED's don't have this issue since it's a diode and will work within a wide range of voltages.
 
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