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Discussion Starter #1
Photos:

Suspension photos [Bolts for Hal shocks, etc...]

Suspension Related email from Region of Doom [Jose] & me [George] from Puget Sound Super Sport Team:

Just re-read your email Jose [below] and I bet the front wheel bearings are adjusted perfect,
OK back to my [George's] email...

Your email is very, very timely, thanks & heres' why: Had the car up on a
rack today & with the front wheels hanging, there was still a noticible
[small] amount of wheel movement indicating wheel bearing slop [just enough
to warrant an investigation of what to do about it]. Later, I pulled on the
top of the front wheels with the wheels loaded on the ground and there does
not seem to be any perceptable slop or movement. So, since your input has
always been correct, at the next opportunity, I will tighten the front
spindle nut to the next cotter hole which should be perfect as the rotor/hub
still spins freely.

When I mounted the new wheels this AM, per the FSM front wheel bearing
setting from 12 FT LB, then loosen, then hand tighten, then loosen to first
available cotter hole---> [I changed to]---> all previous but then tighten
[not loosen] to first available cotter hole. On the drive to the rack,
yesterday's steering wheel vibration was gone [cured] 8^)...

On the rack today, we installed the rear Hotchkis lowering springs & HO rear
sway bar; also corrected my 180 degree mistake of thinking I had the HAL
front shock adjustment knobs in an accessible orientation [not]. Once
corrected by positioning the knobs towards the center of the car, we adjusted them to 5 of 12.

On the drive home, the car would bounce real good from front to back [pitch
like a ship]. Roll [side to side] was very well controlled as a result of
them big HO sway bars. Once home, I could tell why the car was acting
bouncy. The Hotchkis springed rear [with stock & a little worn 9C1
shocks] too easily moves up & down a great deal when applying pressure to
the rear fenders & bounces twice before stopping. The front however, will "NOT" move with the Hals set on 5 [too much IMHO]. So, at the first opportunity, I want to install the rear Hal shocks as well as get a full wheel alignment.

My impressions of driving on wider 18" tires & wheels versus 9C1 15s is all
positive except for one thing: The cops don't have to deal with controlling
wander within any freeway lane because of troughs from road wear. Wider
tires require work & awareness to keep the car going straight in these
troughs!

I need Global West to [word is they will soon] begin selling an adjustable
set of rear upper conrol arms to go with the 3/4" extended GW lowers &
Dynotech extended driveshaft I have in the garage. The car won't look right
until most of the cop appendages are removed, rear wheel spacers installed,
rear wheels centered, smoothie bumpers, tint, black pillars, side molding
delete & louder mufflers. Another reason I need GW to hurry is that the
stock bolts holding that HO rear bar are an accident waiting to happen,
yikes..!

Long posting George


>From: "Jose E. Rodriguez"

>I believe the FSM also states to check wheel movement when it on
>jackstands.
>There should be a little movement when you move the wheel form the top and
>bottom.
>
>Jose

;) George
 
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Evrything looks good... Except for that washer that you forgot to put ontop of the endlink.
 
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Spartus,
It was not forgotten [in progress pics] suspect you also noticed the tie rod not yet connected as well? ;)

My car needs the rear Hal shocks installed right away and the front Hals adjusted to maybe 3 for street driving... Its bouncing BAD because the [worn] rear cop shocks cannot keep up with all the other suspension goodies...

I want to arrive in Las Vegas for the ISSCA Annual Event with the rear wheels centered & all the Global West rear stuff installed...

Sure hope GW produces & sends me their new extended & adjustable rear upper control arms ASAP...

Thanks for giving my thread some attention--George
 
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Yeah, where did you get those BEEFY tie rod connectors? Those are sweet looking. Mine are just hanging down at the moment too, so it's no too late to replace the factory type sleeves.
 
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Yep,
Erik is correct, thems is the Global West tie rod connectors; they thread & jam nut real nice and the Cad plating is top quality too.

I think Dave Zukausnan <----- [sp?] the brake guy just posted email at the Region of Doom, Yahoo Groups email about his Hotchkis connectors becoming frozen from New Jersey road salt corrosion.

Anyway, these are the same thing [don't have a water drain like the GM stock pieces slot] so I was thnking it might be wise to either take em apart again & whipe on some appropriate anti seize/anti rust compound] or whatever...

The lock nuts will keep any adjustment... It stands to reason all them internal threads could glue themselves together in short order...

George
 
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