Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
1996 BBB
Joined
·
2,576 Posts
Yep, inner seal should be facing outward and outer seal should be facing outward (both facing AWAY from the center). The key here is not to let the inner seal fold over and in on itself when installing it. If the tool you are using isn't just the right diameter you will either A) catch the inner lip on the shaft causing it to fold over unknowingly as you tap it in or B) you'll stretch the seal too much. Either way it wont seal...

I used marker caps 3 times, 1 out of the 3 times I had it cause a leak. I found a cnc copy of the kentmoore tool from a forum member (the copy is no longer made, but you may still be able to find it or the kentmoore tool around) and slid it up to the shaft, then tapped it on with a half inch drive socket (fit right over the tool) and no leaks at all after. That was by far the easiest/surest/safest way of doing it out of the other ways i've tried.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,024 Posts
Thanks. This replaces all of the front seals right?
Well not exactly. You can buy that kit but it comes with a recomendation to buy the oil pan seal too.

When you take the timing cover off be careful not to tear the oil pan seal. If you do, lower the oil pan a little and try to fit it back in the channel otherwise you need to replace the whole thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,682 Posts
there's really no need to do the timing cover gasket itself unless it's leaking, and in all the b-cars I've looked at, the actual TC gasket leaking is very unlikely.
+1. I'd just do the WP drive seal and opti seal. If the crankshaft seal or timing cover is not leaking, just leave em alone. My 94 has 261K on the original crank/timing cover gaskets, and still no leaks. :) It's just cheaper to buy the whole gasket set and only use what you need, because a dealer would want $11 or so for just the WP drive seal alone...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,024 Posts
there's really no need to do the timing cover gasket itself unless it's leaking, and in all the b-cars I've looked at, the actual TC gasket leaking is very unlikely.
True, Im just saying if someone removes it for a reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,537 Posts
Before the crash there was a thread about this Felpro kit that discussed whether or not the smallest o-rings were for the waterpump or Optispark, but it is no longer accessible. I think it was determined it was for the WP. It also gave the p/n for these small o-ring seals.

That being the case, is it necessary to replace the 2 small o-rings on the optispark ?
I looked through the p/n sticky but didn't see the p/n for the o-rings. Does anyone have it ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
10474278 Hope this helps.
just bought 4 of these today and correct the two o rings in the felpro kit are for the wp shaft and the part number above is for BLUE opti shaft o rings
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,453 Posts
Yep, inner seal should be facing outward and outer seal should be facing outward (both facing AWAY from the center). The key here is not to let the inner seal fold over and in on itself when installing it. If the tool you are using isn't just the right diameter you will either A) catch the inner lip on the shaft causing it to fold over unknowingly as you tap it in or B) you'll stretch the seal too much. Either way it wont seal...
Note here that "outward" is relative to the seal itself. If you're looking at the front of the seal, the yellow lip should be reaching towards you. If you flip it over and look at it, the rubber lip should be facing towards you.

In a pinch, you can use the water pump drive coupler to install the seal. Take any old large-tip sharpie marker and use the smooth tapered end of it to gently expand the yellow seal larger and larger until it's just about the size of the drive coupler. Then, take the water pump driver coupler (assuming you've already cleaned, sanded, and polished it perfectly smooth) and slowly rotate it and work it through the front seal. Then rotate and push it the back seal. Then install it on the drive, and then rotate the whole seal onto the timing cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
I have to go back in to replace some leaking seal on our 9C1. After replacing the WP and Opti, it developed an oil leak that was worse than before. The WP drive seal looked decent, so I didn't replace it last time. I guess I'll be replacing it this time.

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the WP drive seal w/o removing the timing cover? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
I have to go back in to replace some leaking seal on our 9C1. After replacing the WP and Opti, it developed an oil leak that was worse than before. The WP drive seal looked decent, so I didn't replace it last time. I guess I'll be replacing it this time.

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the WP drive seal w/o removing the timing cover? Thanks.

You don't have to remove cover to remove seal? You have one of my tools don't you? I have instructions that will help explain removal and install regardless. You usually just use a screw driver or a drywall screw.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top