please help need advice on distributor
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depending what the problem is you may want to purchase a new one, and find the connector also.
whats ths issue why are you replacnig the opti?
whats ths issue why are you replacnig the opti?
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4,827 Posts
I don't have any data to prove it, but many have had them last beyond 160k. The cap and rotor is a maintenance item and thus warrants a change eventually, probably 100k is a good time to consider replacement.
Is the car running less than smooth? That's the usual kind of sign that a cap and rotor are worn.
Is the car running less than smooth? That's the usual kind of sign that a cap and rotor are worn.
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thats too wide of a question, the one on my impala has ogne 50k miles i have replaced 5 on my caprice.
some live and just work...
do you have a miss? you may want to start in another direct to trouble shoot lose of power.
can you give me more details?
have you ever cleaned ur maf?
have you replaced erg, vacuum, coil, checked all grounds
does the car have a CEL?
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it has about 170,xxx what is a maf again sorry stupid question and naw it not really runny smooth i had to reakky put my foot in her to make her move and naw i havent replace any of them things my check eng light on but it says it my o2s and what a CEL?
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CEL = check engine light
it sounds like you have muliple issues.
you should start small, erg valv is like 50$ + gasket (NO SILICON)
it goes on the top back of the motor, you will need a small socket or a stubby open end wrench to get it off.
check all the vaccuum lines for cracks / wear and tear.
that are grounds, on the coil, next to the bat, on the side of the block (passenger side) clean them and make sure all grounds are making good connections
inspect all visable wires for tears
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once you do this then move to the next step
i have heard of clogged cats causing the same symtoms your having you may want to look into this.
too bad you were closer i would tell u to bring ur car to my house their maybe some one local who can help you.
So, your CEL is on for O2's, but you're looking at other items?! Start with what you KNOW is broken. What's the specific code # its throwing?
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He speaks the truth, if you got an existing condition thats bad enough to throw a code, id start with it before throwing costly parts at it. Are you getting a primary o2 code or a secondary o2 code? I know they arent cheap if you buy the AC o2's (dont cheap out and buy bosch!), but if its a primary o2 code, the car is gonna run like crap (thats a little harsh, maybe "less than optimal). Btw, to clean the MAF, remove it from the car, remove the screen, and CAREFULLY take a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol and clean up the tiny resistor wires inside the MAF housing. Be easy, they are fragile, and once broke the MAF is rendered useless. Cleaning the TB requires just a can of TB cleaner, or carb. cleaner. Take the rubber intake elbow off, and spray the gunk off the throttle blades. Also spray around the bore openings to ensure the throttle blades arent sticking.
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1. P0100 OBD-II Trouble Code
Technical DescriptionMass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Malfunction
What does that mean?Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit.
SymptomsYou will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness.
CausesA code P0100 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF sensor may be faulty
Possible SolutionsThe simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Unplug and reconnect the MAF wiring harness
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor
o2's
but not 100% sure
air pump.....
from the codes you provided, it may not be the opti but a bad maf
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thanx for the help so far and right about now i took apart the maf cleaned it out and put it back in i could tell its a lil better after that and next im doin the egr valve and the coil i just put my order in with my supplier and then this weekend ima take off the throttle bodie and clean all the gunk off it and in it.
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and the front part of the TB.
once you clean it the first start will be ruff/hard to start.
with those codes you may want to look into the MAF being the issue more then anything else.
you should test ur car with a KNOWN workin maff.
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a maf from another impala/9c1/caprice that works has no issues.
P0100 - MAF again. You've got a MAF problem. Check wiring. If not wiring, replace MAF. Fix this code BEFORE worrying about the others.
P1415 - Secondary Air Injection system - Bank 1. Follow this procedure and ignore this code for now... http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm
P1441 - EVAP system flow during non-purge. Check EVAP vacuum hoses for deterioration and proper routing. Check EVAP purge solenoid.
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