[heavychevy35096]

So I've got a leak coming from the back of the power steering pump and I'm trying to get to the pressure hose on the back because I'm thinking I just need to replace the O-ring on the end of the line where it goes into the pump. My question is kind of two parts 1) What's the best method of taking the pulley off the pump to get to the bolts holding the pump on the bracket? I have the pulley puller but not sure if I need to break out the hand ratchet or if there's a way to get an electric impact wrench in there to make my life a little easier? (I could use a really good reason to buy myself an electric impact wrench, but I want to make sure I get one that will fit and still pull the pulley off) 2) Where can I find and o-ring to fit the pressure line, or what size is the o-ring itself?

I also considered just taking the whole bracket off with the power steering pump still attached and THEN pulling the pulley off. That would give me more room to work on the high pressure line, but I'm just not sure how feasible that is. Any advice is welcome and appreciated!

 

[1slow96]

Pump MUST be removed to take off accessory bracket.
The four bolts holding the P/S plate to the bracket do not require pulley removal.

 

[BALLSS]

Autozone, and likely other part stores, have a PS pully removal & install tool in their "loan-a-tool program. Easy to use.

 

[95wagon]

As stated above , you shouldn't need to be looking at pulley re-re to deal with a rear line leak . Yeah it's cozy back there but ,,
If for what ever reason you take the pulley off , may I recommend that any puller is a fixed slotted jaw type and nothing " universal"
They are notorious for ripping the lip off the pulley leaving you nowhere.
Also , my opinion, never use an impact on a PS pump unless it is going in the scrap.
The hammering - rattling does nothing good to the delicate internals.

 

[sherlock9c1]

just do what @1slow96 said. No need to mess with the pulley.

Side note: After years of dealing with exactly what @95wagon said above, I followed @1slow96 advice and just rebuild the pump. Takes 30 minutes tops and I never have to remove the pulley ever again.

 

[MWP]

And, if it's all old/orig, might as well avoid future pain and replace all the hoses. Don't forget the pump-reservoir one. Someone on the forum made an enormous effort and persuaded Gates to reproduce it in a big batch a few years ago. 26034975GK is the hose/clamp kit, still available some places I think.

 

[heavychevy35096]

Pump MUST be removed to take off accessory bracket.
The four bolts holding the P/S plate to the bracket do not require pulley removal.

Glad to hear that. I was thinking I was going to have to pull the pulley off to get the pump out. I thought the bolts behind the pulley was the mounting bolts.

 

[heavychevy35096]

Autozone, and likely other part stores, have a PS pully removal & install tool in their "loan-a-tool program. Easy to use.

Yeah I've still got the loaner I used to change the pulley on my 75 K10 a couple months ago. As soon as I finished it, the 96 started whining so I just held onto it.

 

[heavychevy35096]

As stated above , you shouldn't need to be looking at pulley re-re to deal with a rear line leak . Yeah it's cozy back there but ,,
If for what ever reason you take the pulley off , may I recommend that any puller is a fixed slotted jaw type and nothing " universal"
They are notorious for ripping the lip off the pulley leaving you nowhere.
Also , my opinion, never use an impact on a PS pump unless it is going in the scrap.
The hammering - rattling does nothing good to the delicate internals.

I've got a new pump on order so I'll probably put the impact on the old one, but I'll just have to suffer through wrenching it onto the new one. Did the same with my 75 K10 recently. It's a good arm workout if nothing else. lol

 

[heavychevy35096]

just do what @1slow96 said. No need to mess with the pulley.

Side note: After years of dealing with exactly what @95wagon said above, I followed @1slow96 advice and just rebuild the pump. Takes 30 minutes tops and I never have to remove the pulley ever again.

I've got a new one on order now, but when the day comes she starts going out, I'll look into rebuilding myself. Never done it before and I've got a small window to get this pump changed out so I'd rather not risk attempting something I'm not already familiar with.

 

[heavychevy35096]

And, if it's all old/orig, might as well avoid future pain and replace all the hoses. Don't forget the pump-reservoir one. Someone on the forum made an enormous effort and persuaded Gates to reproduce it in a big batch a few years ago. 26034975GK is the hose/clamp kit, still available some places I think.

Yeah, this pump has been on for more than a decade and lines are factory as far as I know. Replacing the pressure line as well so I'll add this to the list. Good looking out!

 

[heavychevy35096]

Thanks for all the feedback gang! I'll let you know how it turns out, only got one day this weekend to get it done and got a buddy helping me so hopefully we don't run into any gremlins on the way. Any more pro-tips to make the process as smooth as possible are greatly appreciated!

 

[BALLSS]

Use turkey baster to remove old fluid from reservoir. Remove belt, remove the bolts from front holding the pump to accessory bracket. Pull it forward some. Disconnect hoses. Remove pump with the flange. Use the pulley puller/installer to swap over the pully and new pump to mounting flange. Slide pump/plate through accessory bracket. Attach new lines. Fill with new fluid. Do the bleed process by raising the front tires off ground. Start engine and turn wheel lock to lock about 10 times slowly. Refill reservoir. test drive

 

[Z09B4U]

Flush the system before replacing the pump.
Why circulate any amount of old fluid into your new pump?
Clean the reservoir as well.

Remove belt, remove the bolts from front holding the pump to accessory bracket. Pull it forward some. 1. Disconnect hoses. Remove pump with the flange. 2. Use the pulley puller/installer to swap over the pully and new pump to mounting flange. Slide pump/plate through accessory bracket. Attach new lines. Fill with new fluid. Do the bleed process by raising the front tires off ground. 3. Start engine and turn wheel lock to lock about 10 times slowly. Refill reservoir. test drive

1. If you are not reusing the hoses a tip from the internet is to use a bolt cutter to crimp closed (or cut) the metal lines at the fittings then cut off the lines. The crimp prevents pump contamination. Not a issue in this case.
Cutting off the lines allows you to use a deep socket on the fittings which most people find easier than a flair or open wrench.

2. I have not done a LT1 pump pulley removal but in most cases it is easier to loosen the pulley when the pump is bolted to the engine and the belt resists the rotation of pump when wrenching on the puller. On some cars there may not be the space to do this.

3. First with engine OFF turn wheel lock to lock about 10 times slowly. Then check reservoir, and repeat with engine running.