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Ok, friday at work I went to lunch and upon my return I rolled the driver side window up and heard a loud "pop" sound and my window no longer would go up or down but I could hear the motor spinning when activating the switch. The first thing I thought was that a window glide had broken. I didn't worry about it at the moment but on my way home from work I stopped at the local auto parts store and picked up a package of rollers knowing that's the problem, NOPE glides are intact and the regulator still attached to them. I could move the window up and down by hand and after removing the door panel to further access the regulator/motor I discovered that when I would move the window up and down the gear on the motor would also move so I knew at that point the sector gear on the regulator was good (seen all teeth intact) and also the gear on the motor was good (seen all teeth intact). Now I pull the regulator/motor assembly out and go down and buy a NEW window motor (Cardone 82-126) which is all steel construction just like the original. I proceed to properly hold the regulator and cut the rivets holding the motor to the regulator and removed the motor and swapped on the new motor. Now it's time to disassemble the bad motor to find the failure point. I first took the 4 torx screws out holding the "motor" to the gear head and discover that the worm gear is actually the shaft of the motor and it is intact, I look down into the hole it goes into that meshes with the plastic driven gear and while rotating the mating gear to the sector shaft on the regulator I can see that all teeth are intact here as well. That leaves the failure point as somewhere between whatever holds the mating gear to the sector gear to the shaft that attaches to the plastic driven gear. Tomorrow after getting the car back together i'm going to try and figure out how to remove the gear from the motor to see exactly what broke but I have a sneaky suspicion that the gear is held to the shaft with a roll pin and that roll pin has sheared allowing the shaft to turn but without turing the final gear mating to the sector gear.

I know everyone likes pics so i'm going to attach what i've taken tonight.
 

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Good to see that you seem to know what you're doing :) .

Would've been easier to read if it were broken into separate paragraphs.....and the occasional use of a period wouldn't hurt, either :p .

Ok, friday at work I went to lunch and upon my return I rolled the driver side window up and heard a loud "pop" sound and my window no longer would go up or down but I could hear the motor spinning when activating the switch. The first thing I thought was that a window glide had broken.

I didn't worry about it at the moment but on my way home from work I stopped at the local auto parts store and picked up a package of rollers knowing that's the problem, NOPE glides are intact and the regulator still attached to them.

I could move the window up and down by hand and after removing the door panel to further access the regulator/motor I discovered that when I would move the window up and down the gear on the motor would also move so I knew at that point the sector gear on the regulator was good (seen all teeth intact) and also the gear on the motor was good (seen all teeth intact).

Now I pull the regulator/motor assembly out and go down and buy a NEW window motor (Cardone 82-126) which is all steel construction just like the original. I proceed to properly hold the regulator and cut the rivets holding the motor to the regulator and removed the motor and swapped on the new motor.

Now it's time to disassemble the bad motor to find the failure point. I first took the 4 torx screws out holding the "motor" to the gear head and discover that the worm gear is actually the shaft of the motor and it is intact, I look down into the hole it goes into that meshes with the plastic driven gear and while rotating the mating gear to the sector shaft on the regulator I can see that all teeth are intact here as well.

That leaves the failure point as somewhere between whatever holds the mating gear to the sector gear to the shaft that attaches to the plastic driven gear. Tomorrow after getting the car back together i'm going to try and figure out how to remove the gear from the motor to see exactly what broke but I have a sneaky suspicion that the gear is held to the shaft with a roll pin and that roll pin has sheared allowing the shaft to turn but without turing the final gear mating to the sector gear.

I know everyone likes pics so i'm going to attach what i've taken tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Good to see that you seem to know what you're doing :) .

Would've been easier to read if it were broken into separate paragraphs.....and the occasional use of a period wouldn't hurt, either :p .
I wrench for a living, not an english teacher. :D

I've been working on vehicles for 36 years now so I guess you could say I know what i'm doing. I was also an automotive machinist for 22 years but am now an equipment mechanic for a construction rental company (lots of ariel equipment).

The reason I posted this in the first place was to try and help the brotherhood out IF I can figure out the exact failure point and a fix for it instaed of having to buy another window motor. So far it sure seems that it's going to be a cheap easy repair versus buying another motor.
 

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Honestly its cheaper to just replace the whole thing than judt tth motor and the az motors needs some modding to fit to
 

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...Tomorrow after getting the car back together i'm going to try and figure out how to remove the gear from the motor to see exactly...
HTH:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=273538&highlight=window+regulator

I just wanted to show you that because the motor gear meshes directly w/ the sector gear and w/ the regulator spring fully loaded you can do severe bodily harm if you remove the motor prior to stabilizing the sector gear independent of the motor.

This is a good deal of work, but I'm glad I did it. The motors do, like any other motor, eventually get tired and replacing w/ a new one definitely brings crispness back to the window.

It would indeed be much safer to not disassemble the motor from the regulator and get an assembly 2nd hand. But what condition will that one be in after a decade and a half?

W/ time, more and more motor replacements will become necessary and the motors aren't terribly expensive (I got mine on sale/closeout from Rockauto). But refurbing an OEM motor isn't out of the question. They're very solid and powerful units.
 

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The rollpin is probably not the item that broke. If the rollpin goes through a nylon part, the nylon part is usually the culprit.

The part sthat usually wear out are the brushes. From what I have read, it is possible to get generic brushes the same size at a local hardware store.

The motors generally are not used a lot if the car has climate control, and it is in a high temperature part of the country like Florida. I can probably count the number of times I have put my windows down on all of the cars I have had while in Florida for almost 20 years.
 

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Mr. -high,
Thanks for the write-up. Just as you, I always consider the next x hundred folks happening across a given thread looking for help when I post. Mr. Baraka's point is well-taken as there's a definite slide to addle-brained slapdash ADHDDAD gnat's attention span with folks today. That much typing, in one block, guaranteed to scare away 85% of the audience.

To the point of your thread I ALWAYS attempt repair and rebuild first over replacement. Even if I don't succeed and save big bucks not paying for a new part, at least I learn how the whatever thing got made, and works, for future reference.

It don't always work as I planned though. I once forced my son to watch me for 30 minutes rebuild a corroded window switch on his old Monte Carlo. Alot of damn teeny pieces in there. Thank god it worked after I was done. Problem is I happened across the same switch for like $8 browsing through a HELPS rack at AZ a few days later.

And Plus 1,000 on the brushes Fred. Same son drove a GEO Prism around a couple years with driver's window up 'cause the new window motor is $300. I found brushes online for $5.
 
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