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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 95 fleetwood cheap for the super nice black interior for my white car. So I swapped interiors with the blue interior from the white car. It now has a blue interior, black headliner (sunroof so couldn't swap it) and tan radio bezel. It looks great!!

I am the third owner, it has 256k, and runs perfect. It was well maintained. Has some rust issues, but still looks decent. I was gonna resell it, but it runs so good.

So now I am putting my 9c1 axle in. Not for the disc brakes, but for the 3.73s and detroit true trac. Was looking for a torque converter on craigslist, and ended up partial trading for complete trans with s-10 torque converter and trans go shift kit from a member here.

Picking up a complete nos wet kit with throttle body plate this weekend for super cheap. And got a line on a set of hooker shorty headers too.
A friend has a set of drag radials on steel wheels. Gonna see if I can get a low 13 out of this pig??
 

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Me -

- too! :d
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A buddy let me use his garage with a lift yesterday. Got the axle and trans in. I had no idea about trans interchange between the years until this morning..... Luckily they are they same years.....

Decided not to do the headers, I just listed them in the classifieds here. Just have to get the exhaust back on and the brake lines done for the discs today. Probably get started on the nitrous kit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It hauls ass, lol. Just need to send the pcm out for speedo correction unless I can find someone local.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haven't driven the car much, but it does have a very noticeable scraping sound coming from the rear axle. At first I thought it was just the rust on the rotors. New rotors and pads and its still there. New hardware kit, lubed pins, and h clips are in correctly.

Axle fluid was changed, rtv'd up lube holes cleaned up, and correct felpro gasket installed. I checked for anything rubbing on the driveshaft, and inside the 15" oem wheels.

Sooo.........axle bearings? Anything else to check? The axles are yukon, so hope they are in good shape still. Guess I will do the bearing saver bearings if I have to.

And then the n20 kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
bearings usually make "humming" sound...
Did you checked brake dust shields - maybe they are bent?
There are no brake shields. It is definitely a metal on metal sound. It sounds like a pad with no material left. Most noticeable at low speeds. I'm sure its still there at higher speeds, just cant hear it over the road noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah thats next. It hasnt been in the air again since I did brakes. I did spin them slowly after brakes were done and didn't hear anything, so thought it was fixed. I will prob get it in the air and put it in gear with somebody in the seat keeping the speed down. I don't think I am going to find anything, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One thing I just thought of, but doubt its it. I replaced one of the caliper brackets because the pin was so frozen. Maybe something is goofy with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At the very least the carrier bearings are toast. I can move the truetrac probably an 1/8" side to side with just my hand.
 

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Raise the rear end and spin tires, yes. But make sure you rest the rear axle on stands and lower the body down, so it's at "ride height." Make sure it's not a simple rim on skirt rub.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Raise the rear end and spin tires, yes. But make sure you rest the rear axle on stands and lower the body down, so it's at "ride height." Make sure it's not a simple rim on skirt rub.
Yep. I raised it, and then started taking stuff off until the noise went away. It never did. Even took out the driveshaft and stuck a yoke in it to rule out trans. Removed the cover and the carrier bearings are shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Replaced the carrier bearings and put the same shims back on the same sides. They just slipped right in and the carrier is still loose, lol. And its the pinion bearing making the noise!

Anybody near chicago want to fix this thing for me? I will trade you for a 115k mile lt1 engine intake to pan! A local shop wants 600 to replace all the bearings and re set up the gears. Hopefully the gears are still good. I think that is a decent price, but that is half of what I paid for the whole car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So finally had enough time and ambition to tear the rear apart again. Pinion bearings were toast. The pinion nut came off easier than expected, so I am guessing it was bad preload on the bearings to begin with.




Got it back together and smooth and quiet. Had to remove the 18 tooth 3.73 reluctor to replace the big bearing. Didn't reinstall. Slight damage to one tooth from pulling, shouldn't hinder operation. Free plus shipping to good home.

So on to the nitrous install. Never played with nitrous. The system has a wot microswitch. You shouldn't spray under 3000 rpm, from what I understand. How the hell does that work?. Do you have to arm the system after launch?

I am not buying any $$$$ window switches. Its the craplac. Launch, hit 2nd, flip the switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The nitrous tb plate required some clearancing on the the thermostat housing. No big deal. But the throttle body cable is now too short. Can I adjust it a 1/2" or so longer???? Googled for a while.......
 

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Sneaky System:
Leave nitrous solenoid in trunk w/ bottle.
Run line up to air filter.
Spray up to 100 HP dry n02 straight into air filter.
The MAF will compensate with fuel.

Nab
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Borrowed a set of drag radials that a buddy had on a caprice a few years ago. Wouldn't fit the caddy. So on the regular street tires easing out of the hole

2.2-60
1/8-9.7 @ 71

Hit the speed limiter at indicated 107 actual 84 and went 15.3.
 
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