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Discussion Starter #1
Ok almost every morning for the past month my power steering won't budge until I give it a little gas. It will whine for a minute and work perfectly all day long. This ONLY happens in the morning at start up.
I'm thinking maybe an air bubble in the system? Anybody else had this problem?

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I'd start by changing fluid at the very least. I use/recommend Red-Line P/S fluid personally. System doesn't hold much,so cost of fluid is reasonable...
 

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OP, If you decide to go this route, let me know, as I bought some redline at the time I had my unit rebuilt by Lee P/S. Steve told me that he wouldn't recommend using the stuff on his rebuild, so I didn't use it.

It's taking up shelf space for me so......
 

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OP, If you decide to go this route, let me know, as I bought some redline at the time I had my unit rebuilt by Lee P/S. Steve told me that he wouldn't recommend using the stuff on his rebuild, so I didn't use it.

It's taking up shelf space for me so......
What did he recommend?

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The stuff he sells,most likely. Nothing wrong with Red-Line. Tolerates high temperatures,flows good when cold,and keeps passages clean...
 

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Ok almost every morning for the past month my power steering won't budge until I give it a little gas. It will whine for a minute and work perfectly all day long. This ONLY happens in the morning at start up.
I'm thinking maybe an air bubble in the system? Anybody else had this problem?

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did you check to see if the Belt/Pulley isn't slipping? As mentioned, try a Flush first and bleed the system to see what that does and check your tensioner. doubt an air bubble would cause this as that would have probably bleed off already.

You could just have an old Pump that is tired and time to rebuild/replace.
 

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Steve told me to not use synthetic fluid, outside of that he said any power steering fluid is fine.

I would use the ACDelco brand power steering fluid honestly. Using valvoline PS fluid and I have been having problems trying to get my steering to be quiet and silky smooth like it was when I had Royal Purple in it, BEFORE the rebuild.

If your old pump goes out, have it rebuilt by LEE. I would add a cooler too. I have a thread on that.

In your case, I would go get a 2 or 3 quarts of power steering fluid, then bleed bleed bleed. Cant really bleed enough honestly.

I think my gear needs to be rebuilt as well now so maybe thats my problem. Or maybe I ruined the pump by boiling the fluid 3 days after I reinstalled the pump. Its costing me way to much money at this point. Hence why I recommend to you to install a cooler..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No belt/pulley is good as well as the tensioner. I have replaced the PS pump before because it was hard turning and only felt smooth when pressing down on the gas. This time around it's only at the first start up. I daily drive mine so when I go for lunch or go home from work there is no problems.
But what would be a good way to flush out ALL the fluid?

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Steve told me to not use synthetic fluid, outside of that he said any power steering fluid is fine.

I would use the ACDelco brand power steering fluid honestly. Using valvoline PS fluid and I have been having problems trying to get my steering to be quiet and silky smooth like it was when I had Royal Purple in it, BEFORE the rebuild.

If your old pump goes out, have it rebuilt by LEE. I would add a cooler too. I have a thread on that.

In your case, I would go get a 2 or 3 quarts of power steering fluid, then bleed bleed bleed. Cant really bleed enough honestly.

I think my gear needs to be rebuilt as well now so maybe thats my problem. Or maybe I ruined the pump by boiling the fluid 3 days after I reinstalled the pump. Its costing me way to much money at this point. Hence why I recommend to you to install a cooler..
Yes if it does go out I'll definitely go to Lee's since I live in the same city as their shop. By the way what's the link to your thread?

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[SNIP]

But what would be a good way to flush out ALL the fluid?

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I seem to remember a thread from about early June of 2009, where Todd S. from Arkansas had a write-up on doing a system flush.

I remember this time & year, because it was shortly after I moved from TX to PA, and did this to the DGGM ride I have now (In my SIG Pic).

First, I lifted the front of the car and set each side on jack stands. I used a barbed end fitting on the output hose connection from the pump, and then ran 3' of clear tubing into a glass gallon jug. I filled the P/S reservoir with new fluid (Walmart's finest), and then just kept turning the wheel from lock-to-lock, all while keeping an eye on the output hose for air bubbles. I did this for at least 2 quarts, until I saw clean fluid in the tubing going to the gallon jug.

This way, I was cycling clean/new fluid throughout the entire system, and not just the reservoir. This procedure worked like a charm.

At that time I refilled the system with AC-Delco Cold Climate P/S Fluid. I believe it was Bill Harper/NAVYLIFR that suggested that particular fluid.

I used that pump and fluid, until last year when the pump gave up the ghost, and had Lee P/S do the rebuild at their new facility.
 

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But what would be a good way to flush out ALL the fluid?

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Just disconnect the Return Hose at the reservoir and be sure to keep filling the Reservoir as you pump out the Fluid. Plug the Reservoir Port and put the hose in a bucket/container to catch the old fluid. Having someone help with this will assure you don't run the Pump dry.

Bleeding is pretty straight forward and IIRC you just get both front wheels off the ground and go Lock to Lock about 30 times which should push out all the air. Think I've seen this process documented somewhere but it's pretty basic really.
 

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Fwiw, you can go from full lock left to right and back to left TWO times before you should top off the reservoir.

I remember I was scared I was going to dry up the reservoir just going from left to right ONCE. Lol.

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But what would be a good way to flush out ALL the fluid?

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easier with 2 people since you need to crank the motor over...or start it. If you start the motor it will drain reservoir before you can get out of the car to fill it again so two people is better.

take the "return" hose off the bottom of PS reservoir and put in some container large enough to hold the amount of fluid you are putting in. Just get a large bottle of any brand PS fluid that is not synthetic. You should capture the fluid coming out the reservoir when you pull that return hose off or use a turkey baster or something to suck the old fluid out. put rags under it so you don't get fluid on the inner fender as there is no drip free way of "flushing" the system once you disconnect the return (smaller) hose from reservoir..

fill the reservoir with new fluid. You can pull the FI fuse so when you have someone crank the motor it wont start and also wont send fuel down cyl. If you do the start the motor method the PS fluid will come screaming into the bottle you have the return hose in...fast..so keep topping off the reservoir. This will only take a few seconds to do with engine running. I didn't have much luck with just cranking over motor (FI fuse pulled) as the pump didn't seem to pump much just cranking but when motor starts...its fing fast.

Connect return hose, top off with more new fluid and do the "bleed" procedure with front wheels raised and turning steering wheel lock to lock several times. Top off fluid when done. Open beer and smile.
 

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I have a large vote against starting the car, considering that turning the wheel back and forth works just fine and actually flushes the gear better.

You will have a hard time keeping up with the pump and once you suck in that much air, it can be fun to get out.

No real advantage to Starting the car the way I see it.

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Discussion Starter #17
easier with 2 people since you need to crank the motor over...or start it. If you start the motor it will drain reservoir before you can get out of the car to fill it again so two people is better.

take the "return" hose off the bottom of PS reservoir and put in some container large enough to hold the amount of fluid you are putting in. Just get a large bottle of any brand PS fluid that is not synthetic. You should capture the fluid coming out the reservoir when you pull that return hose off or use a turkey baster or something to suck the old fluid out. put rags under it so you don't get fluid on the inner fender as there is no drip free way of "flushing" the system once you disconnect the return (smaller) hose from reservoir..

fill the reservoir with new fluid. You can pull the FI fuse so when you have someone crank the motor it wont start and also wont send fuel down cyl. If you do the start the motor method the PS fluid will come screaming into the bottle you have the return hose in...fast..so keep topping off the reservoir. This will only take a few seconds to do with engine running. I didn't have much luck with just cranking over motor (FI fuse pulled) as the pump didn't seem to pump much just cranking but when motor starts...its fing fast.

Connect return hose, top off with more new fluid and do the "bleed" procedure with front wheels raised and turning steering wheel lock to lock several times. Top off fluid when done. Open beer and smile.
Roger when's your next day off your only about 25min away

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If car's running,there's no need to turn wheels back/forth to move fluid. Easier,and more fun with a buddy,but I've done it by myself as well.
 

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If car's running,there's no need to turn wheels back/forth to move fluid. Easier,and more fun with a buddy,but I've done it by myself as well.
yeah to flush no need to turn to flush, just to bleed

I have done it by myself with the start engine method but I start it, count to 3, turn off and go refill reservoir…repeat until clear fluid pukes out the return line into whatever bottle you use to recover old fluid

It only takes seconds for the reservoir to get drained with engine running so you need to be fast getting the reservoir topped off if you leave the motor running

But yeah you can do this yourself with a stop/go method
 
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