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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Quad-1 fitment Issues (New Issue 10-4-10)

UPDATE: Now that the headers are in the passenger side intermidiate pipe hits the Bowtie Overdrives T-56 Tubular Crossmember. It hits only a few inches aft of the ball socket connection. Suggestions for remedies?

- Brian


PREVIOUS: I recently purchased a set of Quad-1's second hand that had never been installed before.

I went to install them last weekend and ran into issues with the driver-side header hitting the frame. So then began the debacle of installing new engine mounts. Finished that and now the header still hits the frame.

About 4 years ago I'd been t-boned by a Jeep Liberty. Surprisingly it didn't total the car. So it went in to get repaired. Seeing as the header hits the frame in roughly the point where I got t-boned. I'm wondering if I've got old issues raising there ugly heads and that my frame isn't straight.

My other options for possible issues are the engine mounts although new still suck (Autozone 2292's); the bowtie overdrives T-56 crossmember makes the engine sit crooked (doubt it) or the headers are off (Doubt that too since I've never heard of anyone having issues with CIA headers like this.)

Anyway I suppose I could use some help with frame numbers and a way to check if it's square or any other possible suggestions.

I'm not completely sure where to start and 90% of this is just me venting.

-Brian
 

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If its only a small amount, you can always take a small ballpeen hammer to the header to make a little room
 

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When I dropped my new motor between the frame rails I had the same problem. Everything was brand new so no sag or extra wear. Some clear, some don't. I ended up using a grinder to make room.

Good luck,
TOM B
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE

Closer. I shifted the tail of the trans toward the passenger side. The pass. side still fits and the drivers atleast bolts up although it's still touching the frame.

Some more playing tomorrow and maybe a little bit of grinder and I think I'll have it.

- Brian
 

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My quad 1's hit BOTH sides - on the part of the frame that is the support braces between the under engine cross member and the main frame rails. Hard interference both sides. I cut out small half moon notches from the support braces so the headers would clear.

Then had other issues which - I guess - are common knowledge, but I was not aware of nor expecting - interference with ABS lines, the A/C refrigerant lines, and the dipstick tube doesn't fit. I didn't read all of the FAQ's on Dan's site, and it wasn't talked about on the forum, so I was surpirsed with this. Also, I can't re-install one of the alternator support brackets. However, I like the quality of the fabrication and look of the headers, so I was willing to notch my frame, bend the lines out of the way, and re-shaped the dipstick tube.
 

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I have Grots, which cleared on both sides, but my buddy has Quad 1's, and they are close on the driver's side. He persuaded the frame a little, with a big hammer.:p

It seems to be hit or miss, on the fit, sometimes.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I knew full well the dipstick, ac lines and brake lines would be tight. That was expected. Didn't expect the frame though. I guess it just threw me off my game for a bit. I don't expect to get back to it till this weekend.

- Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update:

They're in. 'Cept I dropped one of the header bolts and for the life of me can't find it.

I also dropped my spark gap checker and its now firmly wedged between the cab and the inner fender. It will not be retrieved till I remove the fender for some reason.

Unfortunatly I also noticed the electric waterpump has been weeping while I was under there so I'll need to change that and inspect the cap and rotor. (It's been in for 3 almost 4 years.)

- Brian
 

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Update:

They're in. 'Cept I dropped one of the header bolts and for the life of me can't find it.

I also dropped my spark gap checker and its now firmly wedged between the cab and the inner fender. It will not be retrieved till I remove the fender for some reason.

Unfortunatly I also noticed the electric waterpump has been weeping while I was under there so I'll need to change that and inspect the cap and rotor. (It's been in for 3 almost 4 years.)

- Brian
LOL @ Brian! cwm2 Glad one of your headaches (the headers) is over with. Sorry about the other 3 that have taken it's place!!! :D It's always something man...

Now it is my turn to find a set of headers. However, I just need a set of straight smallblock shorties for the 240Z. Fairly generic and a lot cheaper. :)

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
LOL @ Brian! cwm2 Glad one of your headaches (the headers) is over with. Sorry about the other 3 that have taken it's place!!! :D It's always something man...

Now it is my turn to find a set of headers. However, I just need a set of straight smallblock shorties for the 240Z. Fairly generic and a lot cheaper. :)

Tim
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Yeah I've written off the spark plug tool they're cheap.

I have long tubes on the LT1 swap in my truck. They were 99 bucks. Then I get to looking at CIA again and it looks like I'll probably be upgrading to his 67-72 C-10 long tubes sometime in the future. Mostly cause if anybody could custom me up a pair with LT1 D-port flanges it would be him.

- Brian
 

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^^^Pics or none of this happened Brian!
 

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.

Yeah I've written off the spark plug tool they're cheap.

I have long tubes on the LT1 swap in my truck. They were 99 bucks. Then I get to looking at CIA again and it looks like I'll probably be upgrading to his 67-72 C-10 long tubes sometime in the future. Mostly cause if anybody could custom me up a pair with LT1 D-port flanges it would be him.

- Brian
Just saw this thread. Glad you got the issues resolved. As for the truck headers, we already build them with D-ports. :) We will be building a few sets next week so give me a call if you want a set.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the offer Dan, but it'll be awhile. My mod budget for the year is pretty well shot. And redoing the exhaust on the truck is along way down the list of things to fix, behind things like disk brakes, and rebuilding original suspension parts.

- Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New Fitment Issue. The dynomax intermediate pipe now contacts the transmission crossmember. Anybody ever had this issue before?

All the engine and trans mounts are brand-new. I'm about 90% sure its a BowTie Overdrives Crossmember. I bought it off another forum member.

- Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
10/26/13 Still Having Some Issues

Resurrecting the dead because 3 years later after building a whole new engine and finally installing it, I still have the intermediate pipes issue. It seems like the adapter between the header and the cat back points right at the bowtie overdrives tubular cross member. It almost feels like if I could rotate the adapter at the 3 bolt end I would clear no problem but I can't because its welded.

Picture 1 is driver's side looking inboard just to verify that this is an issue only on 1 side. I mean that's like 1/2" plus of clearance on that side.

Picture 2 is the entire passenger side. I think it looks like it's bent slightly up and inboard of where it should be running front to back.

Pictures 3&4 are to show that there is no clearance between the pipe and the tubular cross member.

The cat back fit fine with the CIA export pipes and stock headers and the header its self seems to have plenty of clearance with the all new Energy Suspension Mounts I'm using on the frame, and on the trans mount.

I guess if nobody here has any idea's I'll have to take it to a local shop and see if they can't do something about it.

-Brian
 

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ideally the PS header collector would be slightly down some to allow mid pipe clearance but it isn't. You could just dimple the mid pipe for clearance...or take it to a muffler shop and either heat/push down the mid pipe or make a new one angled around the x member
 
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