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I tried the search, but didnt "really" find the answers I was looking for. First question. What size are the two hex heads holding the adapter to the block? Second question. Do I have to drain the oil to do this fix? Third question. Do I have to disconnect the oil cooler lines from the adapter? If so, what size is the nut and how do I get a wrench or socket in between the two lines? It seems pretty tight in there. Fourth question. What o-ring do I use from the kit? The round or square one? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the help!
 

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Not sure what size the heads are, i didnt pay attention when i did it to a buddies car this weekend. Get a set of allen head sockets, use an extension and it will make like easy.
I would do an oil change anyways unless you just did one.
Yes i would disconnect the adapter from the lines so you can clean the gasket surfaces, get ALL of the old stuff off. Your also going to need to clean the engine block side. Prolly best to use a razor blade since its kind of tight up there.
You cant use a wrench, your going to use a 15 mm deep or shallow with a extension and ratchet. Make sure you loosen the 15 mm nut BEFORE undoing the allen heads bolts holding the adapter to the engine block
 

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Ahh yes the Oil Filter Adapter Gasket Fix, why does that sound familiar. To start off, I would recommend doing it when you need to change the oil as well, as you have to remove the oil filter, and why put the old oil filter back on, plus you are down there already and not much more work to do an oil change. You do have to disconnect the oil cooler lines, and again being a fan of not putting oil stuff back on I would change the oil cooler lines as well. You need a long reach 15mm socket with extension. For the Allen head bolts its a 1/4" hex head, most auto parts stores sell them along with Harbor Freight so you can use it with a standard 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. There also happens to be a write up for the repair on The Herd's website at Oil Filter Adapter Gasket Fix. Note the part numbers for the gasket and O-ring have been consolidated since that write up was made and the GM part number for the kit is # 88893990 and should be around $5 from your local dealer, or a little less from RMS Auto Parts but you got to pay shipping with them which unless you are ordering other parts will outweigh the extra dollar or two your local dealer charges. Also despite what I wrote 11 years ago when I did that write up you probably don't have to remove the catalytic converter I put that in as I felt removing the catalytic converter may make for more room, but doing so will probably break off some of the studs in the exhaust manifold so don't do that. Also another thing to replace while under the car is the oil level sender that's in the oil pan right above the oil drain plug it simply screws out and the new one screws in its place and is about $20-30 from your local dealer part # 12603782 . Also I don't know what square O-ring you are talking about as in the o-ring gasket kit there are exactly 2 parts an orange O-ring and a black fiber gasket. - Peter
 

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Everything else seems pretty much covered, except which O-ring to use. The Fel-Pro kit does come with 2 O-rings. When you take the adapter down, it will be fairly obvious. I believe all of the B-bodies use the orange rounded one. Be sure to get ALL the old gasket material out, or you'll still be leaking.
 

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I'm also getting ready to do this and wanted to make sure which gaskets to use. My Fleetwood has the "square" O-ring but the one in the Fel-Pro kit is almost twice as thick (same diameter) as the stock one, is it supposed to be? Also which paper gasket do i use because it doesn't have one on there now? Thanks
 

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You have a paper gasket, its probably stuck up in the block. Pretty certain my Fleetwood used the round gasket. It had been squished to the point of having flat spots, but the edges were still round. If yours looks different, though, you could try the other one.
 

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Ive always used the square bigger one out of teh felpro kit when ive done them....going on 6-7 of these and no leaks. The small circular one doesnt seem to fit very well
 

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Oil cooler adapter

When I pulled my engine I noticed when I took off the oil cooler adater there was no o-ring or gasket it has never been removed since the car was new and never leaked. I'm putting a new engine in. The gasket kit from gm should be used. maybe the factory guy fell asleep when assebling this car.
has anyone ever seen one without the o-ring or gasket the adapter has a groove for the o-ring.
 

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Did a oil change last week on my car because I wanted to flush whatever the previous owner had in it (just bought it couple weeks ago). I went to advanced auto parts they looked up the right size for my 96 and gave it to me. Once I got back to my car drained it and took my old oil filter off ( its a FRAM ) I noticed that the frams hole was bigger than the one that they gave me. I went back to the store and compared the FRAM hole to 3 other filters and they were all smaller. Is the store wrong? Is my filter too big? Or did i miss a step??
 

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On the subject of oil filter adapters: I looked at replacing the whole mess on my '95 with a standard SBC adapter but it was clear that the filter would hit the catalitic converter. Was there an option for just a filter style adapter or is ther an aftermarkrt version available? Some one said without the cooler you should run synthetic oil. Is this because of the reverse cooling? I'm not towing anything or racing this car. I just want a more permenate way to control the oil leak.
 

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Oil filter adapter

my 1996 came with a fatory oil cooler adapter might want to see if dealer still has those they had the o-ring and gasket that was missing on mine. It never leaked just when I pulled the engine out and removed the adapter there was no o-ring or gasket. We bought the car new as far as I know any work I had done on it they would not have been required to remove the adapter only major work was the transmission. He would not have had to pull it off.
 

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On the subject of oil filter adapters: I looked at replacing the whole mess on my '95 with a standard SBC adapter but it was clear that the filter would hit the catalitic converter. Was there an option for just a filter style adapter or is ther an aftermarkrt version available? Some one said without the cooler you should run synthetic oil. Is this because of the reverse cooling? I'm not towing anything or racing this car. I just want a more permenate way to control the oil leak.
Why are you looking to remove the "whole mess"? Leaky lines? You can fix those permanently and there are a few threads on the subject with part numbers and instructions. Just do a search for "braided hose" and you will find the threads and get some ideas.

To remove the setup, you got a couple of options, Replace the Filter Block adapter with one from an L99 (4.3L) Engine or find a car without this feature and grab it. There are also other cars with the LT1 such as roadMaster that I believe just used the standard adapter as well. Also check here and post a WTB thread. Another option if you cant find the adapter is to just shortn up the hoses, loop them together and keep the apadter in place. This will bypass the lines and the cooler. The lines typically leak at the hose crimps (Metal to rubber) and the "braided hose" fix takes care of this issue.

I have yet to do my oil lines, but did this on the cheap with my Trans lines years ago. Just got some Brass Compresion fittings for 3/8" line, some hose barbs and a few clamps.....fixed. I do want to replace the oil cooler and also the trans lines with a nicer AN option, but just haven't spent the money yet to do it.
 

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The '95 is actually my wifes car. I was simply looking for a way to fix the oil leak for free. I have standard SBC filter adaptors laying around. I followed this thread to get better info once I found out the SBC adaptor wouldn't fit by the converter.I was somewhat discouraged to find that in a car as big as the B-body even a small-block is crowded by the government parts. Both my B-bodys are '77's which share the same components from the floor down but have been reassembled by me under the K.I.S.S rule. After installing an ICM on the '95 last night I can see its time to K.I.S.S. the '95. I will be removing the AIR pump and relater stuff just so I can see the front of the cyl head. Thanks for your suggestion and help.
 

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If we are talking about the "oil filter adapter" leaking...there is a FelPro gasket kit for a few $ that has all gaskets needed. To me, simpler than converting over to a non external oil cooler one.

if the cooler lines are leaking, just get replacement one. Doorman is most likely maker. Some have problems with them leaking frequently. I have 2 chevys with them...only replaced them once on the 03. still have the same lines on the 96, leak free

these cars are old, this stuff is basic wear & tear and replacement parts, seals, gaskets, etc are readily available.

If you feel you want to do "braided" steel lines with AN fittings, fine.
 

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Did a oil change last week on my car because I wanted to flush whatever the previous owner had in it (just bought it couple weeks ago). I went to advanced auto parts they looked up the right size for my 96 and gave it to me. Once I got back to my car drained it and took my old oil filter off ( its a FRAM ) I noticed that the frams hole was bigger than the one that they gave me. I went back to the store and compared the FRAM hole to 3 other filters and they were all smaller. Is the store wrong? Is my filter too big? Or did i miss a step??
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Can someone answer this for me???
 

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Questions like this are hard to answer since you included not a single part number. Go to a site like http://rockauto.com and compare the various brands (FRAM is the absolute worst),and their part numbers.
 

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Its a Fram Extra Guard I wanted to change it to a Purolator classic but the holes were diffrent sizes. The Frams hole was bigger than ever oil filter they gave me.
 

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How 'bout AC Delco PF-52,that is what mine used before I switched to a remote filter mount.
 

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What's the number on the Fram? The Purolator site has a cross reference so you can punch in the Fram # and it'll spit out the Purolator equivalent. Is your Fram shorter but wider than the filters they tried to give you? It's possible the p.o. switched to the filter adapter for the older cars. My adapter came from an 80's Caprice, and the Purolator would be L15313. Hope this helps.
 
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