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Discussion Starter #1
Drop both lower inboard control arm bolts and go that way or drop lower BJ from spindle? Maybe the upper BJ would be better. I dunno, but I can see a few different ways that it could be done.

Do I need a spring compressor...I really can't see any use for it.

I've done many f-bodys but have not done a b-body. I'm going with ST 2" drop springs. Cory
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Personally, I think it's easier to break the LBJ connection instead of unbolting the arms.

You might need a spring compressor to safely remove the old springs. Regardless, be sure you use a chain from the spring to the frame when removing the old spring just in case the spring gets away from you.

You probably will not need one for the install on the new springs.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Well if you have done the 2 bolts at the a-arm a few times, it is very fast. The first time can be a pain getting it lined up, but it is not hard. I HATE ball joints. I have broke one, and also always break the boots getting them loose. So I like the a-arm bolts. But I have a lift with a good tranny jack that works wonders for a-arm alignment.
For a garage mechanic, I would do the ball joint, it is easier in a sense, and you dont have to lay under the car with a compressed coil above you.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I think this question is as old as
"Paper or Plastic"

I personally prefer lowering the inside.
A cheap comealong from the control arm diagonally over to the frame at the firewall can help immensely when lining things up.

If you are lowering the car you are going to have to loosen the inners anyway so they can be retightened at the new ride height.

I do it this way at work all the time. Half the time you don't even have to remove the wheels.
Just my opinion, either way works.
Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I've done it both ways. I prefer the pivot bolt method because each time I try lower ball joint method I have a PITA of a time trying to get the damn control arm past the brake shield while simultaneously trying to get the ball joint stud out of its hole.

The control arm method is about a thousand times easier/quicker in regards to removal/disassembly. It can be a real PITA getting it back together w/o two jacks, however.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I put GW's on my ss. I used the method I read about on this site.I put the car on stands and used a floor jack under arms,removed two inward bolts,slowly lowered arms until springs fell out.You don't need a spring compressor.I put new springs in,used floor jack to compress new springs and put the bolts back in arms.When I put the bolts back in arms I reversed them,I put the nut to the front and the bolt in from the rear.This will make it even easier the next time as the bolts hit the inner tie-rod ends on removal.This was one of the easier jobs I done on this car.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by OHIO96SS:
I put GW's on my ss. I used the method I read about on this site.I put the car on stands and used a floor jack under arms,removed two inward bolts,slowly lowered arms until springs fell out.You don't need a spring compressor.I put new springs in,used floor jack to compress new springs and put the bolts back in arms.When I put the bolts back in arms I reversed them,I put the nut to the front and the bolt in from the rear.This will make it even easier the next time as the bolts hit the inner tie-rod ends on removal.This was one of the easier jobs I done on this car.
This seems like the way to go. Thanks for the input everyone!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I took out lowering springs and put in 9c1's big mistake but i just bought some ss springs and going to put them in tommorrow. I used a coil spring compressor put my car up on jacks on all four sides and had a buddy help. first unbolted swaybar , took out shock, unbolted lower ball joint and let it all un fold with a jack under the lower control arm. If 9c1's not in the pic you could do with out the spring compressor i believe ill find out tommarrow but have to rent one to take the 9c1's out. I'll let you all know how it go's when i get the ss in.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I prefer to split the LCA and the LBJ. Just wedge a pickle fork between the two and give it a good blow. As far as spring compressors I personally would say its a must. Once one of those springs get airborne you can loose a limb if it flys out and hits you. NOT COOL. Usually you do not need the spring compressor when you are doing the installation of drop coils because they are not compressed as much.

When you seperate the LCA and the LBJ I usually have a floor jack under the LCA to keep the spring in the pocket. This also works in re installation, just jack the LCA with the new spring back into the spindle, bolt it together and your done. -Good luck
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I prefer to remove from the LBJ. But like Gerry said, paper or plastic. Anyway. You must restrain the spring, those things are dangerous. I built an aluminum plate with a 1/2" threaded rod that I run up through the control arm, that way if something happens the spring is retained. But Auto Zone rents a really nice internal spring compressor for $50, they give you the full amount back when you return it too. Good luck.
Nick
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I also used the lbj method. It was easier for me since we had the SS on a rack. I also used the Autozone spring compressors and it sure did make the job a lot easier. Only thing, was that it was tricky to get them out when the spring was in its perch. Then when we finally got them off the springs, and they fell right out the shock mounting hole. Air tools also made everything that much nicer.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Just got my stock ss spring in the front and 9c1's in the rear for a bit of rake look. I used the lbj method i find it much easyer lining up the lbj hole than trying to line up the a arm bolts. If you have 9c1's in there get a spring compressor to compress them and then take them out. If SS springs you can lower the a arm enough and pop em out with a bar at the base. At that how i got them in. I had the spring compress in there and it got in the way during install so i took it out and put it in without useing the spring compressor. My friend jacked up the a arm from the cup, and we held the spindle out of the way and poped it in with a prybar. Not much tension in the SS springs but be care full i would say that each side takes an hour max. Or in my case two my buddy's were having more fun watching than helping oh well. There in and im going to test it out more tomarrow if its not stiff enough ill cut my 9c1 fronts a coil at a time till i like it.
 
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