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· Premium Member
6,950 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Coolant Pump Driveshaft Assembly


J 39243 Driven Gear Assembly Remover
J 41546 Driven Gear Assembly Installer
J 39089 Coolant Pump Shaft 0-Ring Protector


Engine front cover assembly.
Rotate crankshaft assembly until timing marks punched on crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket are aligned.
Camshaft sprocket bolts/screws.
Camshaft sprocket and timing chain assembly. NOTICE: Do not turn the crankshaft assembly after the timing chain has been removed to prevent damage to piston assemblies or valves.
Coolant pump bearing retainer bolts/screws and coolant pump driveshaft assembly using J 39243.
Remove and discard 0-ring from coolant pump drive-shaft assembly.


Coolant pump drive shaft assembly using J 39092.
Coolant pump bearing retainer bolts/screws. TIGHTEN
Coolant pump bearing retainer bolts/screws to 12 Nm (108 lb. in.).
Camshaft sprocket and timing chain assembly.
Camshaft sprocket and coolant pump driveshaft gears must mesh, or damage to camshaft retainer could occur.
Camshaft sprocket bolts/screws.
Make sure that camshaft and crankshaft timing marks align.


Camshaft sprocket bolts/screws to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
New 0-ring to coolant pump driveshaft assembly using J 39089.
Engine front cover assembly.

The only thing, i want to mention is. To ensure you scraped all the old gasket off both the waterpump and the block. To help ensure you have a good seal.

You may also want to look into the bleeder valve:

This will help when you bleed the system, it will not get the opti wet.


· Registered
358 Posts
On the gaskets, if you ever plan to take off the water pump again, I would put grease on both sides, the gaskets wont stick to the block or the pump when you take it off.

· Super Moderator
4,833 Posts
Another good trick when draining the cooling system for a water pump replacement is to remove the thermostat housing, then put a shopvac hose directly on the thermostat opening. Open the coolant tank cap and then turn the shop vac on. It'll suck out a lot of coolant from the block and greatly reduce the amount that falls on the ground.

· Registered
2,446 Posts
Thanks Buford T. JuSStice for the credit for the idea. I usually need someone to prod me to start something so thanks for that! Most of my information I've learned was from going through the past forum threads about this, Information from members of my local car club, doing the job 3 times (cause I fooked up) and "TheFooserGuy"

Symptoms of a bad waterpump:
* Coolant coming out of the weep hole (under the waterpump directly above your high $$$ opti) This is the best sign
* Car overheating (There is a lot of causes of this but this can be 1 of many)
* Leaks around clamped in pieces (Not around hoses but metal to metal)
* Smell of antifreeze under the hood (FIND THE SOURCE!)

Which waterpump to get: (If you are NOT going electric)

* Most autopart stores carry re-manufactured and *new* waterpumps. I've experienced poor quality from both. As mentioned above, check the fittings of the waterpump where the smaller hoses (from the "T" fitting and heatercore) come into the pump. YOU SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE THESE. If you can, tell them you don't want it. The piece will definitely leak out of this joint if you put it on your car.

Which waterpump to get: (If you ARE going electric)
* I have no experience with these. There are pros and cons with going to an electric.

Installation Guide:
1. Read up on what you are going to do. Don't just look here, read your FSM or other book that tells you how to do it as well. Use common sense unless you don't have any, in which case you should just take it to the shop and pay to get it done (Hopefully you have more money than sense)

2. Get the car to where you want it and let it cool (Hot coolant will burn you)

3. Ramp up car - Follow all typical safety procedures. Don't jack your car up on a muddy driveway and get under it, etc...

4. Get your tools ready. You will need various metric sockets to take off the waterpump bolts, towels and rags, a screwdriver and other "scraping" devices, torque wrench, put the beer in the fridge now (no beer till the job is DONE!)

5. Put a towel/rag under the waterpump and on top of the opti to protect it from any coolant that will spash on it. Antifreeze in opti = sad opti = $$$ = you not happy. In fact don't get coolant anywhere except in the bucket. If you get it on the paint wipe that stuff off with the quickness!

6. Make sure you have plenty of time to do what you need to do here and don't rush or do a 1/2 ass job. I've done this 3 times because I didn't listen, thought I knew better, and just wanted to get it done. This will cost you more time, money, and hassle that no one has right now.

7. Drain the coolant. Take the cap off of the reservoir tank. You don't "have to" drain it all but your already here and have the bucket out so nut up and shut up and do it. Take the lower radiator hose off and stick it in the bucket ASAP or your get your shoes wet.

8. Drain the block. Pull the knock sensors and get all of that crud out of there. This stuff can be nasty... (You may want to fill your cooling system with water and remove the T-Stat to get some more crud out. DO NOT DO THIS ON A HOT ENGINE. I'm not responsible if you crack your block)

9. This is a great time to flush your heatercore (You have to take the hoses off at the waterpump anyway) Guide to do that is here : I really couldn't find a good thread I liked, someone please find one for me thanks.

10. Disconnect all hoses going to the waterpump. (This is a great time to upgrade your hoses too)

11. Remove the coolant temp sensor for the fans. located below. Clean the threads with a wire brush, put blue thread lock on it. Make sure you put it on the new waterpump so you don't forget about it.

12. Remove the (6) bolts that connect the Waterpump to the block. The exact size isn't coming to mind but you will need a deep socket for these as I recall (or that is what I used)

13. Remove the waterpump (Should just pull out, only gasket holding it in place)

14. Remove the thermostat housing (on top of the waterpump) and thermostat. Put these in the new waterpump. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS. I believe the FSM says 20lbs of torque, this is incorrect, it should be 8lbs. If you start leaking from here after all is said and done you can tighten them down a bit more but DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS ON THE WATERPUMP (Especially after you have the new one on your car, you will be pissed, ask me how I know)

15. scrap the gasket that stuck to the block off. Don't be a pansy on this, when you think you got it good and clean go over it again. This gasket it the only thing keeping the pressurized coolant from leaking out. And it wants out SOOOO bad.

16. Clean the front of your engine. Your there, if you have time give it a little TLC

17. This is a good time to replace the water pump gasket

Read this ->
There is also a tool someone was selling on the "for Sale" section to help press that gasket in here ->

18. Take a look at the bolts that hold the waterpump on. Take a steel brush and clean the threads really good. (again, don't be a pansy) You are going to need some blue thread lock. IF YOU DO NOT PUT THREAD LOCK ON YOUR BOLTS THE COOLANT WILL SEEP UP THE THREADS AND YOU WILL HAVE LEAKS/DRIPS Ask me how I know.

19. Take a break

20. Your ready to put the new pump on. You need to put sealant on BOTH SIDES of the gasket. Don't be a pansy here either. Your not making a grilled cheese sandwich, spread that ish around to all the corners and edges. I find it's easier to (have your dad do it but I watched him) stick it on one side, put that on the waterpump, then put the sealeant on the otherside now that it is attached to the waterpump.

21. Stick a few bolts in the waterpump and get those bolts started on the block, use these to help guide the waterpump to the right spot.

22. Bolt on the waterpump, follow the manual for torque specs (I need to look this up later)

23. This is a good time to replace your "T" fitting and restrictor. Read about these pieces here by JasonLachapelle

24. Connect the hoses to the waterpump

20. Connect all hoses and caps and plugs you took off to drain.

25. Plug in the coolant temperature sensor. (Hope you remembered to remove it and didn't leave it on the waterpump that you returned to O'Rielly's yesterday for your core charge and it's 9PM on a Sunday... Ask me how I know)

26. Fill

27. Drive the car for "a bit"

28. Let it cool (still warm)

29. bleed system (Guide to bleed system is here by Marky Dissod->

30. Let car sit for several hours

31. Repeat steps 26.- 30.

32. Look for leaks, smell for antifreeze (you may smell some from have it dripping everywhere but it should go away in 24 hours unless you dumped it everywhere)


· Registered
3,136 Posts
well, i finally got around to this job (water pump and opti replace)

200 miles, now, and nothing appears to be seeping or leaking

a big thanks to Buffman for the seal tool, Goldmaster for the videos, and SimplyTheBeSS for posting those videos

any idea what a dealer would charge for a job like this ?

here're a few pics from the job:


· Premium Member
579 Posts
Where can I find a seal tool....I have to tackle this job:(
PM Goldmaster. He was supposed to have some to sell. Buffman quit selling them.

· Registered
2,572 Posts
If not mentioned elsewhere, it is a good idea to pack the WP shaft coupler with high temp wheel bearing grease before setting it in place.

· Premium Member
579 Posts
I anti-siezed mine. :confused:

· Premium Member
579 Posts
The splined waterpump drive coupler? No. Just clean it up and reinstall it. I think it is highly unlikely it could ever need replaced.

· Registered
56 Posts
I did the water pump replacement on my 95 Fleetwood this weekend after reading thru this thread.
Thanks for all the tips everyone posted, it was helpful and the job was not too bad. I ended up with an O'Reillys reman because that was all they had in stock, I checked the tubes and they were all tight.
I wanted to add another tip, I found the scraping of the old gasket dificult mainly because it was tough to get any scraper in the tight space.
So I used some 3M 2" Rol-loc conditioning pads with a small drill and it fit right in there and cleaned off the old crusty gaskets with ease. These things are made of the same stuff as the brown scotch brite pads and the rougher ones worked the best. About 5 minutes each side and I was down to bright shiny metal.
I thought I had everything pretty well flushed out until I used compressed air and blew out a lot more coolant from the block.
It is all back together and no leaks so far...
Thanks Roadmister

· Premium Member
213 Posts
Another thing to be on the look out for is the back of the water pump seal tool. Mine has a rounded exterior edge with a chamfer on the inside. The rounded edge can cause the inner seal to fold and flip over the wrong way. You can't tell if it does or not until it starts leaking oil. My tool will be fixed tonight so I won't have to replace the seal for a third time.
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