[j cat]

Just changed plugs. drivers side all sooty black no big build-up of anything. Pass. side all reddish brown no build-up of anything. All 8 were dry. This is my 1st plug change. It had Bosch plat's in it. I put AC Delcos. I don't know why one side would be different. Pass side is normal IIRC. So what's up with the drivers side?

PITA job. All from the top, taking my time as I can't stay bent over the fenders like I used too...LOL. 3 hrs. Jacking up the car & taking the wheel off ??? I don't think so. You do have to work more by touch than anything else. Also donate a little blood to the grease Gods, but that's nothing new ..lol.

Any ideas on the plug difference from side to side guy's.?

the driver side has the PCV. replace it and make sure those vac hoses to it are good. also be sure the opti vac lines are good .

check the passenger side also for cracked hoses. a vacuum leak can throw off the PCM fuel mixture control.

 

[j cat]

Didn't think of the PCV as I thought that would effect both sides , But I did notice that there is a hose off of the evap canister purge solinoid that comes off the bottom, does a 90 degree turn and heads towards the firewall...it just broken off about an inch from the solinoid but there is nothing there for it to go to....?

All intake bolts are tight.

cannister purge switch, that is a vacuum leak the forum has good pictures showing where this goes. fix all hoses and after you run it a few hundred check a plug on each side to see if it is normal light brown both sides.

 

[j cat]

the vacuum lines on my 1996 impala are not routed that way. I am the original owner and person who repairs it.

I know that there are better diagrams with this info which is a OEM routed GM diagram.

the only hose that has no connection is the canister vent hose and that is mounted between the battery and the back of the passenger side headlight.

the reason it is mounted there is so it is not near the engine.. gas vapors !

 

[j cat]

Scanner keeps getting 'link error'. I have used this scanner for years with no issues so I know it's OBD II. There must be a problem with the data feed port as the scanner will power up when I plug it in. I can get to the bolt as it broke off at the head. I will get on it as soon as it cool's off.

if you have a stud to grab I used a small vise grip pliers about 4.5 inches long and I got this stud out. use some penetrating oil to help lube the threads. these are installed with a GM thread compound to hold in place. try to unscrew when it is heated up a little. also work it in and out to remove. the stud is bent from all the manifold expansion.

advance auto has these 3/8-16 x1.5 inches. grade 8.

 

[j cat]

I don't get it. Just plugged the scanner in for the hell of it....it linked up, gave me "O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)" P0138, let me erase the codes, then scanned again & came back with No codes pass. I wonder if I don't have a bad/loose pin on the ALDL. ?

the driver side after cat O2 is most likely bad. or the wiring/connector. O2 DTC will take some time to make a code.

 

[j cat]

Would the after cat O2 going bad cause the rich condition on that side? I thought they didn't do anything as far as engine function. I'm still trying to get the rear manifold bolt out, my little visegrips don't want to hold,,,damn it.

on the bolt removal use the penetrating oil not other lubes. allow to work a few days. with the small vice grips work the stud in then out as you do this it will slowly work its way out. the vice grips I used had a jaw for a pipe not straight.

with heat from the engine running it should loosen the stud as well....