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Discussion Starter #1
I suspect this is the turn signal switch, and I have one ordered but thought I'd ask the experts

96SS

Symptoms:

Right turn signal does not work at first it was just sometimes, but now its 100% non functional. Use of right turn signal causes odometer to pulse. Right turn arrow in dash does not light.
Cruise control does not work
Aftermarket remote start starts, but stops after 3 secs with an error.


Left turn signal works fine
4 Way flashers work fine (left and right turn arrows in instrument cluster blink)
Changed bulbs in right tail light
Brake lights work

I know the brake switch can stop the cruise from working, so have one of those on order just in case, but cant imagine it would stop the turn signals.

Suggestions.
 

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It is more likely a ground issue. With things interacting, it means that the system is looking for an alternate ground.

My brother had a 73 Plymouth, and when he tried to start it, the starter solenoid would click, and the headlights would come on dimmly. He found that the engine ground to the battery was faulty. He fixed the engine ground, and everything worked properly again.
 

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I know the brake switch can stop the cruise from working, so have one of those on order just in case, but cant imagine it would stop the turn signals.
If the brake switch and cruise switch do not give the proper signals the cruise will not operate. You have said the brake lights work. The third brake light must have a working bulb(not LED) for the cruise to start working.

Put your hazards on. Do all back bulbs have the exact same light output? Do the front lights have the same output? Does anything change when you turn on the park lights? Do you have the correct bulbs in all positions?

A common reason for one side of a signal light working but not the other is a bad ground. This might explain the odometer as well. Unbolting then replacing the grounds in the kick panels might fix the ground issue if you have one.

Check the turn signal connector at the bottom of the column they sometimes melt.

Do you have other things connected to the circuit other than the RS? Alarm or trailer tow plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update:
Brake lights work, so I assume brake switch is working.
THIRD brake light bulb is bad!, will replace and retest for changes. Never see it on, and back window is tinted, so I forget I even have that.
Hazards on, both sides behave the same, though one of the 194 bulbs seems odd, like perhaps its fallen out, but there is a light in there.
I believe I have all the correct bulbs. 3 1157 and 2 194. Old bulbs had to be extracted the glass was detached from teh brass, so they didnt want to easily come out
Will check grounds in kick panels, Not sure where those are, is there a pic of what I'm looking for?
Car has never had any tow plug connected, I'm not aware of what points the alarm is connected. It was 20 years ago it was installed.
Will check the turn signal connector. I have a new switch I may plug in just to test to see if that changes things
 

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I have a new switch I may plug in just to test to see if that changes things
Good plan. You could also switch the turn signal flasher with the hazard flasher, I think the OEM ones are different specifications but if you get both signals doing the same thing it might prove something.

The kick panel is what your left foot would hit (to the left) if your foot was under the parking brake pedal. Same Idea on passenger"s side(right). The grounds are on ring terminals bolted to the sheet metal.

I believe I have all the correct bulbs. 3 1157 and 2 194
These cars do not use 1157 but they will work.
The tail light :194 corner 2057 194 2057 and 2057 backup
The front is a 2057NA (amber glass)
The 1157 has a 3candle power park light VS 2057 2candle power park light.

Some owners replace the middle 194 with a 2057.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Replaced all bulbs that were out. No change

Replaced flasher No change

plugged in new turn switch assembly under dash, This is where it got interesting

At first it did not work, wiggled wires around to unplug it and it started working. went back to orig switch, stopped working, wiggling wires didnt help.

So at this point it LOOKS like a bad switch and a loose wire somewhere, but somewhat harder to reproduce, so I'm not confident. I'm going to replace the turn switch since this one IS the orig and It has 160K miles on it.

I do not see any melting or heat damage to any of the plugs

3rd light replacement did not resolve the lack of cruise control, so still need to sort that out, but at this point the hope of having both turn signal is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, new observations.

Headlights off - press brake pedal - Odometer dim

Headlights on - press brake pedal - Odometer gets brighter.

Already have a new brake switch ordered, to see if that resolves cruise control issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Coincidence or not, I dunno, but I finally have a fix.

Was not the turn signal switch, not the brake light switch. I replaced the 1157 bulbs with 2057, and the problem magically went away.

So, while I've read the docs that say the bulbs are interchangeable, but in my current config, it seems like my car doesnt like the 1157s. So nice to have it running again. now off to the next problem...
 

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I replaced the 1157 bulbs with 2057, and the problem magically went away.

So, while I've read the docs that say the bulbs are interchangeable, but in my current config, it seems like my car doesnt like the 1157s
Common causes that would explain this result: the twisting action cleaning the three contacts in the socket, the solder on the ends of the old bulbs contacts being deformed or corroded, or dirt or corrosion on the bulb's base.

The paste the OEM used in the sockets should prevent problems but after 20+ years cleaning out the socket and replacing the NONCONDUCTIVE grease may help. Places that sell big truck lighting will have socket grease or "ignition grease"(silicone nonconductive grease) which seems to work for me.

When the old thermal flashers do not "see" the correct electrical(amps) they will not flash. When a two filament bulb is not grounded properly all sorts of electrical "gremlins" can result.
 

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.
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.[snip]

The paste the OEM used in the sockets should prevent problems but after 20+ years cleaning out the socket and replacing the NONCONDUCTIVE grease may help. Places that sell big truck lighting will have socket grease or "ignition grease"(silicone nonconductive grease) which seems to work for me.

[snip]
Whever the chance I clean the "turned to dried yellow play-doh after 20 years" oem lube and replace with just regular di-electric. Is this 'ignition grease' (silicone based?) something fundamentally different? Never came across it.
 

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Whever the chance I clean the "turned to dried yellow play-doh after 20 years" oem lube and replace with just regular di-electric. Is this 'ignition grease' (silicone based?) something fundamentally different? Never came across it.
This forum is wearing me down. Di-electric grease is the best description, but I usually have to say that stuff you put on spark plug wires. The stuff in the bulb socket grease has additives and can not be used for high voltage ignitions. So I just stock silicon di-electric grease for both uses. The truck shops will use the socket grease as they do not worry about spark plugs.
 

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I suspect this is the turn signal switch, and I have one ordered but thought I'd ask the experts

96SS

Symptoms:

Right turn signal does not work at first it was just sometimes, but now its 100% non functional. Use of right turn signal causes odometer to pulse. Right turn arrow in dash does not light.
Cruise control does not work
Aftermarket remote start starts, but stops after 3 secs with an error.


Left turn signal works fine
4 Way flashers work fine (left and right turn arrows in instrument cluster blink)
Changed bulbs in right tail light
Brake lights work



I know the brake switch can stop the cruise from working, so have one of those on order just in case, but cant imagine it would stop the turn signals.

Suggestions.
I have an issue with my right turn signal aswell..everytime i turn it on my brights come on...caused me to unplug my brights because i was pissing off om coming traffick when turning right. :unsure::poop:
 

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Whenever you have two systems interact, there is a ground fault. I would check you FSM for common grounds, and reestablish them.
 

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Whenever you have two systems interact, there is a ground fault.
Sort of thing I might say but the KISS method suggests look for the simplest issue first. In this case mechanical. The turn signal lever is connected to a rod that moves the High/Low switch. I suggest there is a problem with the switch.

HighLowSW.jpg
 

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A mechanical issue will not affect another system when they do not touch..
 
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