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well im going to try and keep it short some years ago i got into small accident where my rear axle got replaced because the original one got bent . i dont think i got one with limited slip because when i lay rubber down only my right tire burns rubber how do i get original limited slip axle or is it called posi:confused: back on my ss or any one know where i can get a 96 ss rear axle or fix the one on my car los angeles cali area
 

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police Caprice (9C1?) rear axle

Just found 2 police Caprices in junk yard. Will rear axle from those cars be right fit for '96. Roadmaster and would $200 be fair price for axle+calipers+rotors? Have no idea what is the mileage on those. Any suggestions from experts here?
 

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Thanks! I found so much great information! Very much appreciated.:)
As I understand switching from 2.56 to 3.08 would lead to lower gas mileage because of higher engine RPM ?
Is there another way to put rear disc breaks on Roadmaster instead of replacing the whole axle?
 

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Thanks again!
 

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Yesterday I removed whole rear axle from 9C1. Today I was hoping to do the easy job - to remove axle shafts ...
How do you guys remove that cross-pin ??? I removed bolt from cross-pin but cannot remove cross-pin itself.It just goes maybe half inch deep and that's it. Too tight to get it through . Doesn't matter from which direction I try . Do I have to hit it real hard to get it through? :confused:
 

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The pinion shaft (cross pin) can become damaged over time and not come out of the carrier housing easily.

The shaft SHOULD be removed from the side of the housing that has the hole in the shaft for the lock bolt.

Rotate the carrier 180 degrees and push the shaft inward--no more than 1/2" out of the case on the lock bolt side.

Rotate the carrier back 180 degrees, and use an appropriate tool (locking pliers) to grab the end of the shaft that is protruding from the case.

Once you have the shaft out far enough to uncover the lock bolt hole, if it will not come out easily at this point, slip something in the hole (the old lock bolt or something else) that is strong enough to use to pry against or grab with a tool or tools to help extract the shaft.

See if the shaft will rotate, and try to do so enough to get an indication that the shaft is not hanging up on a burr, or is possibly bent (not unusual for a car that has been "curbed"). You will possibly have to wrestle with it a bit to get it out if that is the case.

If the shaft IS damaged, plan to replace it--both the shaft and lock bolt are available as service parts (these are specifically for production 8.5" differentials).

25872305 lock bolt

26056109 shaft

Let us know what happens!
 

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Thanks! I'll try again tomorrow. :)
 

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Yesterday it took me 2 hours and all the bad russian words I know :) to get those axle shafts out. When pinion shaft was out about 1 inch it just stuck seriously. There was no way to move it farther. I also noticed that pinion shaft was heavily worn out .So I took some heavier tools (hammer) to drive it out. But first I had to turn carrier in the position I can access C clips later when pinion shaft is out far enough. Luckily there is just enough (but no more) room on other side to drive pinion shaft out as far as needed to remove those C clips.
After I removed axle shafts I took out carrier and drove pinion shaft all the way through .
I think this time I will keep just all parts needed for disc brakes for my Roadmaster .As I use this car mainly for very long highway runs and MPH is important factor I will stay with stock 2:56 this time .
Anyway thanks for all the information guys ! :)
 

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sorry , MPG not MPH :D
 

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Yeah I guess that DAMN clean roady was mine .:) Mine says "REVOX" on license plate. I used not to drive that car around town at all before but since I crashed my Firebird...:( I have use roady as daily driver .

Andy.
 

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......i dont think i got one with limited slip because when i lay rubber down only my right tire burns rubber how do i get original limited slip axle or is it called posi.....
Posi......Limited slip......pretty much interchangable terms.

Your issue is that your Auburn posi unit is worn out; that's why you have the single tire burn-out.

You can go with another OEM unit (Auburns aren't rebuildable as far as I know), or you can go with a Torson or Eaton unit which are less prone to failure in a dailey driver and probably less expensive than what the dealer has.

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/Products/Drivetrain.htm

NOTE: If you get a SS rear from a salvage yard, there's a good chance that the Auburn posi in that rear will be bad, also......FWIW.

KW
 
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