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Discussion Starter #1
Does 1995 Fleetwood Brougham come with 11" x 2" rear brakes? My rear brakes are dragging. I plan to replace wheel cylinders, assuming a sticky piston is the culprit. The hardware looked good (adjuster, etc. no rust).
 

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Does 1995 Fleetwood Brougham come with 11" x 2" rear brakes? ......

Yes. Limos are slightly larger. Dragging could be leaking bearing/seal galling the shoes.
 

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Does 1995 Fleetwood Brougham come with 11" x 2" rear brakes? My rear brakes are dragging. I plan to replace wheel cylinders, assuming a sticky piston is the culprit. The hardware looked good (adjuster, etc. no rust).

Bad assumption. First step is to free up the star wheel adjusters and actually adjust the brakes correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Bad assumption. First step is to free up the star wheel adjusters and actually adjust the brakes correctly.
Done it several times per manual and many videos on youtube. Still something is wrong. I was driving for a very limited time VERY carefully locally with the rear brakes disabled. That's how I knew they were dragging. Felt immediate increase in power and fuel economy.

What if I roll back the adjusters to allow way more gap between the shoes and drums and let them self adjust? Will it work? I can do that through access openings, without taking off the wheels.

I did notice the plungers did not extend equally out of wheel cylinders when the drums were off, but assumed things get aligned properly when the drums are on and the brakes are applied. Maybe another bad assumption.
 

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D....The hardware looked good (adjuster, etc. no rust).

For as cheap as they are, I'd be trying to make any excuse possible to replace ALL the hardware; springs, retractor arm and bushing, pins, retainers.... Not only are they wear items, but fresh is also the best way to stack the deck in the favor of the other parts working properly (cylinders, adjusters...) I got two complete kits when I did all-new drums-shoes-cylinders at 53,XXX.


BTW I've never experienced reliable functioning auto-adjusters on any drum car I ever owned. Maybe a few times the old "slam on the brakes at 30 in reverse worked, but most reliable is in the air with manual friction fit.


Last thing: I cleaned and lubed those adjusters - they were sticky and all bound up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For as cheap as they are, I'd be trying to make any excuse possible to replace ALL the hardware; springs, retractor arm and bushing, pins, retainers.... Not only are they wear items, but fresh is also the best way to stack the deck in the favor of the other parts working properly (cylinders, adjusters...) I got two complete kits when I did all-new drums-shoes-cylinders at 53,XXX.


BTW I've never experienced reliable functioning auto-adjusters on any drum car I ever owned. Maybe a few times the old "slam on the brakes at 30 in reverse worked, but most reliable is in the air with manual friction fit.


Last thing: I cleaned and lubed those adjusters - they were sticky and all bound up.
The wheel cylinders were replaced some eight years ago and the hardware just a couple of years ago. Everything looks clean. i do not like the concept of drum brakes at all. I do not think they are much lighter than disc brakes. Of course I can use new hardware, but am sure that's not the problem.
 

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OK. Then it sounds like the next item to attack is those new cylinders. Other bogies are shoes that grab from being overheated and 'crystalizing'. I had this happen in the '90's pulling a boat a lot. No amount of sanding the shoes could stop the crappy braking and eventually heard about this issue and got new shoes and all better. Also, I 1/2 recall drums can get glazed from contaminants getting burned or 'glazed' in?. Not sure whether turning fixes this or requires complete replacement, but another area to poke into. Maybe I sound like a broken record, but braking is such a Top 3 with me I just replaced 100% of everything to be confident of what I was working with when I picked up the current FWB 3 years ago. Same with the front. I'll likely do the same dam thing with the next 25-year old POS I get. lol





..... i do not like the concept of drum brakes at all. I do not think they are much lighter than disc brakes. ......

+1 to say the least. Thus prompting my swapping out my last FWB to rear disc about 18 years back. I think you've been around here long enough to remember the Navy Lifer FWB Rear Disc Mod. There are a few rarified parts to go with the (might still be available) off-shelf pieces to make an oem quality install. I'm applying $$$ to other areas of my current FWB, but the two brake systems behave differently enough that it'll be worthy of considering in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
96 Black,

Forgot to add that the shoes are pretty new too. Glazing would affect braking, but would it contribute into dragging?
Unfortunately, cannot invest more in this car.
 

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I can appreciate a non-infinite budget. Did you do the new cylinders yet though? It's getting to sound like that's the only thing not touched in the last few years. Once those are in you can do a full bleed and errthing should be straight. IDK if ABS cars automatically self-correct for a shifted proportioning valve, but you might do some search just to eliminate that as a cause of your symptoms.
 

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Yes. Limos are slightly larger. Dragging could be leaking bearing/seal galling the shoes.

Some limos not all. Only coach builders making 6 door limos for funeral homes could get commercial chassis.
 

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Good point. I guess fastest way to tell if a real livery limo is it'll have no ABS/TC.
 

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Good point. I guess fastest way to tell if a real livery limo is it'll have no ABS/TC.

Yup easier than climbing under the car.
 

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Parking Brake

HUF, the parking brake. Just thought of it. Backing out of the garage my wife's Tribute was dragging a bit, and happened to look down and saw that my SIL had pulled the handle when borrowing it. (he drives a stick). Check yours out for anything out of the ordinary.
 
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