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Rear end pinion area bump stop on frame problem possibly solved?. (by energy suspension) Extended control arms

4K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  95wagon 
#1 ·
Anybody ever used this bump stop from the company Energy Suspension to relocate their rear end “center top” bump stop? It’s part # 9.9150G. Here is an old forum quote (the link is broke but if you manually enter the part # it shows up) from 2002 which is an answer to another person having his pinion yoke chop a piece of his bump stop off.


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“O.P”
“I was driving recently and hit a large pot hole in the road (just missed it I guess). Anyway, I heard a noise from the rear end that sounded like rubber popping. I looked under the car and noticed that the bump stop on the body directly above the the rear end had a notch cut in it. I have put on the 3/4" extended rear links and have really liked what the do for the car's handling. I am certain that the pinion ring on the input to the rear end made this grove. Has anyone else had this problem?? If so, what did you do to correct it?? Please let me know. Thanks!”

“Guest”
“I did allot of research on this and found that using the Enery Suspension Bumper Stop # 9.9150G our problems are solved. It is slightly offset which keeps it off the Yoke. It is also a little higher to allow the use of the larger diameter driveshats. Otherwise they can hit the floor pan when hitting a big bump in the road or when carring heavy loads.
Here's a link: http://www.energysuspension.com/bsp2.html
Hope this helps!”
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This is exactly what I’m looking for (if it works) because I’m on the edge of deciding/purchasing extended rear control arms (Metco) and a larger 3.5 inch Aluminum driveshaft (3:73 gears). I didn’t want to see if I can get a reply from a post that was so old. I know I shouldn’t totally depend on one piece of rubber (I’m planning not too) , but it helps me not destroy my existing rubber bumper. I want to know if this part really repositioned the contact point to the correct place on on the axle away from the spinning pinion yoke. Also, for anyone looking for a remedy to the same deal, here possibly is a part. That bolt don’t look like it’s off centered 3/4 but it might be. Anyone has firsthand with this part, feedback appreciated. Notes: I guess it’s a pair for a Buick both sides originally.

Thanks.
 

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#3 ·
People use various things back there.

While it is not offset , the longer progressive ZQ8 S10 front lower arm snubber that a lot of us use on the front works very well as a pinion snubber . That is what I put on when I had a 5 inch shaft in the wagon.
Its still there .
This does not deal with the extended arm deal, but you are not doing that now anyway
15956547
 
#6 ·
Unfortunately I will not be near my car for at least a week.
Googling that number though, many threads with some dimensions do show up.
Like this one
 
#9 ·
Those
those (the white ones) are the ones I installed in my front end. My old ones were chewed up really bad. It took me a while to find the part number on the forum but I did. It is an s10 bumper and doorman too when it arrived. I can’t remember the part number. I do have it on a receipt filed away. It took me a while because the old ones were the same ones. I didn’t know they were not stock yet because a previous owner Installed them.
 
#11 ·
Not the easiest solution, but I just welded up a new box for the pinion snubber to sit in that moved it back. I also extended the spring perches. To me, the biggest issue with extending the rear control arms, other than using upper arms that don't have an offset clevis to correct for the new angle, is the location of the spring perches. When you extend the arms 3/4's , you're also moving the spring perch back that same amount. It just didn't look good at all to me having the spring perch completely offset from the spring pocket like that.
 
#13 ·
You guys probably already know this. I didn’t. They sell adjustable pinion snubbers for those who didn’t know. Only thing is if vibration has the pin and clip rattling that would be annoying. Something precise and maybe greaseable would be nice. I’m just putting it out while we are here. Photo of googled “adjustable pinion snubbers”
 

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#14 ·
Here is the part number the OP listed initially installed with the extended control arms, it's just barely enough offset to not hit the driveshaft directly which the stock one looks like it will. Only reason I did it was another member on the FB page of our group wrecked his driveshaft with the stock snubber and extended control arms.

Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Tread
 
#15 ·
Well, thanks. I've got extendeds but have apparently never had to deal with bottoming the rear. At only 2 years old your post doesn't really fit the bill as necro-posting, and I'll get up underneath and see if any potential of contacting the DS. (y)
 
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#16 · (Edited)
Probably a non issue for those with good ride height.

Even on an old necro thread it's the worst when the thread just ends with no conclusions or images, and I couldn't find any threads with this that actually had an image of it installed so I added for others in the future to reference. Also time just flies, feels like years are just months now.
 
#17 ·
Also time just flies, feels like years are just months now.
Ain't that the truth! I love my SS now as much as the day I bought it 22 years ago. I'm still getting compliments at gas stations and such. I'd like to see an image of the ZQ8 bumpstop up there for the pinion snubber. I have the 3/4" J&M extended control arms, so I guess I'd have to rig something up to mount it for the offset position from stock. Thanks for resurrecting this topic! To be honest I didn't even know this was a safety issue with the longer/wider control arms and driveshaft.
 
#20 ·
That thing is sweet! I like the black paint. Spotless! Did you say CF as in carbon fiber? Gold paint? Lots of goodies to look at. What kind of cross member is that? Thanks for the pic of the bumpstop snubber. So where is it supposed to make contact with the pumpkin if/when the time comes? I wonder if I even need to make mine offset with the .75" longer trailing arms. It looks like my stock one would hit the part of the differential housing just at the neck next to the pinion bearing.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The cross member is 70 A Body narrowed to fit.
The aluminum was a shortened Silverado SS .
The Carbon Fiber is a Mark Williams
The alloy shaft picture was when it was an LT1
The CF was while I was doing the LS7
Contact should be forward aslong as it does not hit the yoke or flange
The snubber should touch about the same time the axles do as long as you arent hitting something first.
This isnt Mopar leaf spring drag racing ;)
Have ridden in something where the snubber is being used as a launch aid ? Pretty brutal on the street.
 
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