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Discussion Starter #1
Working on this 94 Fleetwood again and it needs rear lower control arm bushings; due to circumstances, I can't leave the vehicle disabled while I swap the bushings out - I can only do an immediate arm swap. I've already got new bushings and one 'spare' arm off a junked Fleetwood, but can't seem to find another dead Caddy's arm locally. My question is: do the rear lower control arms (correctly) interchange between all the B/D bodies of this era? Thanks.
 

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Yes. All last gen B/D- are the same. I must admit not hearing many bushing failures - especially on a model such as a FWB.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. All last gen B/D- are the same. I must admit not hearing many bushing failures - especially on a model such as a FWB.
The bushings haven't yet completely failed. However, they're clearly worn and long past their prime - seeing cracks in the bushings, etc., and they don't seem to be controlling the rear axle quite like they should any more. 23 years and 208K in the Texas sun, heat and ozone have not done the rubber parts on this car any good.
 

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While you are under there, check the uppers as well. They are a little more difficult to swap out as a unbolt/bolt-up, because the axle bushing is attached to the axle not the arm. The uppers keep the axle centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
While you are under there, check the uppers as well. They are a little more difficult to swap out as a unbolt/bolt-up, because the axle bushing is attached to the axle not the arm. The uppers keep the axle centered.
During an earlier work session where we were able to get the car on a lift, we checked the uppers on the axle end and they looked to be in reasonable condition, unlike the lowers.

We've been thinking about trying to locate a V4P rear axle to get the limited slip and better gear ratio. Depending on what I find when it stops raining and I get a chance to get that rear wheel off to see what I've got going on with this loose rear brake backing plate, we may move that up the to-do list. We'll definitely be installing the upper bushings prior to installation should that occur.
 

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Did ALL V4P get G80 Limited Slip? And therefore ABS Delete? Or were there different permutations? I know the 3.42 gears are attractive, but not if relinquishing ABS. For me anyway.

I installed a PowerTrax No-Slip in my FWB and quite pleased with greatly diminished 'throttle relaxer'.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Did ALL V4P get G80 Limited Slip? And therefore ABS Delete? Or were there different permutations? I know the 3.42 gears are attractive, but not if relinquishing ABS. For me anyway.

I installed a PowerTrax No-Slip in my FWB and quite pleased with greatly diminished 'throttle relaxer'.
I've no idea since there seems to be little information on the subject. I've not been able to find a V4P in the local scrapyards to check the theory and I've seen documentation either way. If we can find one in the junkyards, even if it doesn't have limited slip from the factory it isn't like it can't be added prior to axle installation (as you note) and it'd be far cheaper to set up with the axle on a bench at a shop than it would be in the car.
 

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Did ALL V4P get G80 Limited Slip? And therefore ABS Delete? Or were there different permutations? I know 3.42 are attractive, but not if relinquishing ABS. For me anyway.
1stly, only Fleetwoods that did not come with any ABS were [possibly B9Q-Hearse, depending on other options ordered or deleted], V4U-Limo, & B05-Armour, all of which came with RPO J55. [RPO J55 did not come with ABS].

2ndly, I've no clue how many V4P also got G80.
Regardless, G80 in and of itself never required or otherwise caused to lose, delete or relinquish ABS on V4P, 9C1, WX3, WX8, B4U, or V92.

That is to say, ALL Fleetwoods, including Fleetwoods V4P, have 4Channel ABS, regardless of whether or not they also have G80 - except for Fleetwoods B9Q, V4U, &or B05.
[Nearly all RoadMasters, Caprices, and Impalas have 3Channel ABS, except for some limo & hearse conversions.]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1stly, only Fleetwoods that did not come with any ABS were [possibly B9Q-Hearse, depending on other options ordered or deleted], V4U-Limo, & B05-Armour, all of which came with RPO J55. [RPO J55 did not come with ABS].

2ndly, I've no clue how many V4P also got G80.
Regardless, G80 in and of itself never required or otherwise caused to lose, delete or relinquish ABS on V4P, 9C1, WX3, WX8, B4U, or V92.

That is to say, ALL Fleetwoods, including Fleetwoods V4P, have 4Channel ABS, regardless of whether or not they also have G80 - except for Fleetwoods B9Q, V4U, &or B05.
[Nearly all RoadMasters, Caprices, and Impalas have 3Channel ABS, except for some limo & hearse conversions.]
Yeah, there's a factory Fleetwood limo being parted out at a local junkyard. IIRC, it looked like a different axle under the back, think it was a 12 bolt? Either way, the lack of ABS wheel speed sensors was conspicuous.
 

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I've no idea since there seems to be little information on the subject. I've not been able to find a V4P in the local scrapyards to check the theory and I've seen documentation either way. If we can find one in the junkyards, even if it doesn't have limited slip from the factory it isn't like it can't be added prior to axle installation (as you note) and it'd be far cheaper to set up with the axle on a bench at a shop than it would be in the car.
What prompted my question in the first place was your prior post thinking you'd find a V4P rear somewhere with LS. Marky- provided a good rundown. He confirmed what I was pretty sure constitutes a tow package rear. It's just a better ratio in a normal 11" drum narrow rear with the Bosch 4-channel ABS.

Basically, LS and Cady's ABS / TC just don't go together. You give them up to get posi, or, slip in one of numerous designs of locker. I chose the 'usually off' No-Slip. There's options for 'usually on' too.
 

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I thought this the perfect title for a thread in which I have a question.
Speaking of a commonality....I'm in the market for rear uppers and extended lowers.
Researched BMR, Hotchkis, Spohn, Global West, et. al.
I really like the set from Global West however, they don't make the extended version.
I spoke to someone at Global, told him what I was looking for and he said he would make me an extended version if I could send him the spec distance of the standard and that of the extended.
Can't find technical, blueprint, dimensional info on any site.

Does anyone happen to know the exact distance (bushing/bolt hole to bushing/bolt hole) on the original/direct replacement arm and that of the extended version.

I was under the impression that the difference is exactly .750 in. but now I'm reading that it's only .500 in.

Plus, are all versions from different manufacturers extended the exact same length ?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Going in reverse order is maybe best to hit your items. While 3/4" is the supposed exact distance to center the wheel, you will find (or found) makers also doing 1/2" (Hotchkis?) or 5/8" to counter allegations that the full extension weakens the spline bearing coverage at the output shaft. On top of that you also find (as I did) that there are reports METCO extendeds while advertising 3/4" actually may be closer to 5/8". This may be why I had to have 3/16" of yoke sliced off the MMC driveshaft to ease my fear of binding from too-tight fit when I installed it on my black car.
I do not know the spec dims for the extended uppers, but I would not automatically presume based on their much shorter length (and corresponding swing radius) that they would be exactly the same added length as the lowers, no matter what brand or length you select.

For my money I'd sure be hunting some as a set (even used) v. reinventing the wheel with someone new doing a one-off. JM $.02
 

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I thought this the perfect title for a thread in which I have a question.
Speaking of a commonality....I'm in the market for rear uppers and extended lowers.
Researched BMR, Hotchkis, Spohn, Global West, et. al.
I really like the set from Global West however, they don't make the extended version.
I spoke to someone at Global, told him what I was looking for and he said he would make me an extended version if I could send him the spec distance of the standard and that of the extended.
Can't find technical, blueprint, dimensional info on any site.

Does anyone happen to know the exact distance (bushing/bolt hole to bushing/bolt hole) on the original/direct replacement arm and that of the extended version.

I was under the impression that the difference is exactly .750 in. but now I'm reading that it's only .500 in.

Plus, are all versions from different manufacturers extended the exact same length ?

Thanks in advance for any help.
As a note, I would NOT recommend Global West arms, or any thereof, that have spherical bearings in their construction. This goes back to my pristine California/Arizona 9C1.

I installed the arms as instructed, and tightened everything down to spec, as I'm very anal retentive about stuff like this ESPECIALLY drivetrain components.

I can't say how many miles it was (I'd have to consult my service records book I keep in the glove box), but I started feeling and hearing a slight clunking on acceleration and deceleration. After thorough root cause analysis, I found that the spherical joints had come slightly loose in the bore of the trailing arms.

I then consulted a hot rodding scientist that I've known for years about this, and he told me that a 1/16" lose in suspension, can feel like a foot, and boy was he right

I then switched over to both Upper & Lower BMR arms, and haven't had a problem since. As a NOTE: I use Ny-Lock nuts on EVERY suspension component fastener as I do not wan't them to loosen up. I do not trust anything, especially when those components a large part of the overall safety of my vehicles.

I would therefore recommend you choosing someone without a spherical joint. Long story short is that the spherical joints are NOT SEALED AND WILL ALLOW DEBRIS in them! This was when I had my 9C1 driving in the perfect weather of Austin, TX.

Like my scientist friend wrote, spherical joints are great, but they should only be used in Aircraft assemblies where there free of road contamination.
 

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Thanks for the input fellas.
I was definitely hesitant to have a one-off made for me. The risk of a screw-up in going that route is ALL mine.

The Del-a-Lum bushing at the back of the
Lower arm as well as the spherical bearing at the front is precisely why I was favoring the GlobalWest offering. The rationale for them being bolted to the frame, in theory, made a lot of sense, i.e. no binding, keeping the differential centered, allowing for the arms to twist, as they must, greasable, etc. all made perfect sense. But if the sphericals are prone to malfunction whether from contaminants, design or manufacturing then the whole concept of the arm is negated.
Thanks for the been there/done that insight and advice.
I do believe that the DOM tubular design offers far greater strength and durability than the boxed (Hotchkis) design so I'll be taking another look at BMR's set.

Long Live the Republic and my 9C1 !!
 

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Actually boxed steel is stronger than tubing and bmrs bushings are tiny and wear out in less than 2 years.
 

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Actually boxed steel is stronger than tubing and bmrs bushings are tiny and wear out in less than 2 years.
Rectangular vs round if just being a rear control arm , I might pick an argument.

BUT add the bending moment from a sway bar , and create an abrupt section change by welding a plate on the bottom, then I agree 110 %.
That type is just waiting to crack!
 

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So 3C Fab has 2 sets on sale.

91-96 B BODY IMPALA SS EXTENDED REAR CONTROL/TRAILING ARMS
for $500.

and

1991-1996 EXTENDED SUPER DUTY IMPALA SS/CAPRICE REAR CONTROL/TRAILING ARMS
for $700.

However they don't explain the difference other than showing the connecting hardware in the Super Duty picture.

The Uppers and Lowers look like the same diameter tubing and the same rectangular box size.

Could they actually be charging $200.
For 2 bushings, 8 bolts, 8 nuts and 16 washers ??!!!!
 
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