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Discussion Starter #1
After replacing front end bushings/balljoints/etc I still get a slight pull to the left and right at times due to the rear toe settings constantly changing. I know this from comparing the specs off 3 different alignments within 100 miles of driving.

I'm ready to replace all the bushings in the upper & lower trailing arms as well as on the pumpkin to get things "fresh" in the back.

Any recommendations on upgrades in the rear? I'm running Intrax drop springs with new Monroe severe duty shocks. Thinking of using Moog bushings. It rides great besides the lil bit of dog tracking it's doing.
 

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The term I have heard for misalignment in the rear is crabbing. The toe is not changing, but the whole axle is becoming cocked to one side or the other. If it is crabbing, it usually has one side more worn than the other. Depending on the ride, and stability you want anything from OEM bushings to Heim ends can be used. Unless you have a gross amount of power, your OEM arms should be sufficient.


The bushing on the top of the rear is the rear bushing for the upper arm.
 

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Aside from plain worn parts, the all-new front job may be manifesting a common frame stamping error: Check Post #20 for the TSB#:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/7-concerns/267075-frame-specs-possibly-bent-chassis.html

You might also search 'rear control arm mounting hole' for this issue if your problem is not just maint. parts replacement related.

Variable readings could also be a wallered/hogged out frame hole, though that's usually associated with a clunk on hard accelerating or braking. I had that on a Monte and a FWB.

For recommendations? As Fred says not much actually "required" if not doing stab bar upgrade. Any B/D body deserves one though, which also call for aftermarket rear LCAs. When replacing the rear UCA bushings on the axle ears never use urethane - creates torsion bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Alright, I'll read into the frame specs.

I've had the car 16 years & put about 40,000 miles on it. It drove straight as an arrow the entire time up until about 300 miles ago when it started to wander due to worn upper control arm bushings. Also, replaced frame to upper control arm splined bolts due to rust. Frame holes were all solid, new ones pressed right in. Due to removing the factory arms for some sandblasting and por15 I replaced upper & lower arm bushings, balljoints, sway bar links/bushings, shocks all around. Roughly 5,000 miles ago I did tie rods, center link, drag link and all is still nice n tight.

I went with all rubber bushings up front and plan to use them in the rear as well.

It makes sense that it is "crabbing" since it seems the driver side is changing its specs the most and seems to put the car out of alignment after hard left turns. I can pretty much guess which way it'll pull and when everything goes back to normal based off the same turns I make everyday. I guess I'll find out once all my new bushings get here.

For the dick Miller braces, I'm assuming that's just the suspension support bars, correct?
 

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For the dick Miller braces, I'm assuming that's just the suspension support bars, correct?
IIRC they are referred to as "Triangulation Braces"

" from DM website: http://www.dickmillerracing.com/images/Suspension_Systems.pdf


DMR 5029-W Same as DMR-5029-A-E except fits 94-96 GM Impala SS. May require some heat shield trimming.

A must for any GM coil sprung performance car whether using a DMR rear suspension system or stock. If your car hooks you will eventually twist or break the frame crossmember that the rear end upper control arms are fastened to. These bolt on support pieces will help eliminate this dangerous problem by triangulating both corners of the crossmember
 

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beyond replacing worn rear suspension parts you should consider adding the Dick Miller braces, IMHO
I was also going to suggest the DM braces. I have a set from the last group purchase but can't install with the current mufflers. But will once I replace my exhaust.

I have the UMI? Boxed lowers and tubular uppers that have Poly bushings and never an issue with this setup. Just have to be sure to torque the suspension when it is loaded. Also added a beefier rear bar but beyond any major suspension modifications, not sure there is much else you can or would want to do on a street car. GM actually designed this setup pretty well and don't see much of a need to change its design...just improve it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ahhh I didn't think about the mufflers being in the way. Anyone have a pic of them installed? Could I check with some flat metal stock to see if I have clearance? Luckily I have access to a drive on lift so torquing everything with the suspension loaded will be easy.
 

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I don't have pics of them "installed". When I did mine I popped off the muffler/tail pipe from the rubber hangers so I could "move" the muffler away enough to get a wrench/hand for the top connection. I backed the bolts out "flush" with the control arms, put DM brace up to the bolt then tightened the bolt back through the control arm/DM brace then put the nut on and tightened using box end wrenches on bolt/nut with suspension loaded.

These are a tight fit but do fit. Likely some have their exhaust/muffler in a position that could cause interference. For me it was not once installed and exhaust back on its rubber hanger attachments
 

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Ahhh I didn't think about the mufflers being in the way. Anyone have a pic of them installed? Could I check with some flat metal stock to see if I have clearance? Luckily I have access to a drive on lift so torquing everything with the suspension loaded will be easy.
Yeah, just something to be aware of.

First pic is the Brace (not my pic) without the muffler blocking the view. 2nd pic (is my car) shows the interference I ran into with my muffler setup. It's an exhaust that has been on the car for over 10 years so it aint going to move unless I remove it completely. Had the braces been there before, I could have most likely installed the exhaust and just moved things around a bit before tightening it all down.

EDIT - Dang, hard to believe it's been over 4 Years ago but here is more info on the braces. A lot of pics appear lost to the PhotoBucket Fiasco.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/39-group-purchases/280153-dick-miller-triangulation-braces-gp.html

maybe he still makes/sells them?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hmmm, I can't really tell if I'll have an issue from that pic. I'm running 2 1/2" pipes, walker intermediate and ota pipes welded together. They're real tight. When the rear hanger broke I only noticed the tip was 1/4" lower because it started to scrap pulling out of my driveway.


 

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You will just have to get under the car and try the install. Well over 100 people bought the DM braces on the GP....I don't recall many having fitment issues in that GP purchase thread. I didn't and I have 2.5" OTA and SpinTech mufflers

A Exhaust shop can heat up the pipe on any exhaust and "massage" it out of the way if needed
 
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