Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
121 - 140 of 148 Posts

· Premium Member
94’ Impala SS
Joined
·
569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #121 ·
I don't believe that you can swap just the ball joints in the same control arms.
As long as he needs to buy aftermarket tubular control arms, why not buy the 5/8”?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
Maybe I am misunderstanding. Why does aftermarket tubular control arms lock you into 9/16” ball joints? Speed Tech (and I assume others) offer the 5/8” ball joints as an order upgrade option.
Sorry I meant that if I modify this spindle which is meant for a 9/16th balljoint, the effort to go re-do it again for a spindle that accepts a 5/8th balljoint is quite high and I probably wouldn't do that till a long time later.

Unless your telling me I can modify the spindle to accept a bigger balljoint afterwards to make it work and just buy a control arm that comes with the 5/8" ball joint.

Regardless. once I get to doing the control arms I'm just going to go with a OEM lower for now for budget reasons, as for the uppers I will go tubulars eventually.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,530 Posts
For general info ( the typical moog numbers are there on the right )

If a guy had had lower arms for 5/8 joints and for whatever reason needed to go back there would be plenty of meat ( .095 wall) to make up a stepped adapter sleeve
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,530 Posts
If one modding the spindles in the car a simple jig could help.
Basically, something like a 1 x 1 piece of stock spanning the two holes.
The stock could be drilled for use as a drill guide and threaded as a tap guide.
This to ensure the holes and the threading are straight when done by hand.
 

· Premium Member
94’ Impala SS
Joined
·
569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #125 ·
If one modding the spindles in the car a simple jig could help.
Basically, something like a 1 x 1 piece of stock spanning the two holes.
The stock could be drilled for use as a drill guide and threaded as a tap guide.
This to ensure the holes and the threading are straight when done by hand.
Damn good thought. I could make the guide for you, if you need.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,530 Posts
They have a good reputation, their stuff must work.

I have only put together a tiny fraction of what Rick's tanks have built.
I tend to be complex with redundancy.
That said multiple pumps and doors can be more sources of failure.
I often miss on the KISS principal.
It is easy to sit on the sideline and criticize others products.

They have likely tested and tested and come up with a system that works well.
 

· Premium Member
94’ Impala SS
Joined
·
569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #133 ·
They have a good reputation, their stuff must work.

I have only put together a tiny fraction of what Rick's tanks have built.
I tend to be complex with redundancy.
That said multiple pumps and doors can be more sources of failure.
I often miss on the KISS principal.
It is easy to sit on the sideline and criticize others products.

They have likely tested and tested and come up with a system that works well.
I can't say it works, and I can't say that it has been tested. I can't even say if it is good or bad.
What I can say is that it is better than the "stock" Impala tank I have been hot rodding around with. I can also say that this is one of the few options available, if you don't have the skills or means to build your own.

For those who care, the stainless steel tank is also a good bit heavier than the stock plastic tank, so that's the only downside I have seen so far. (y)
 

· Registered
“91” Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
Joined
·
415 Posts
For those who care, the stainless steel tank is also a good bit heavier than the stock plastic tank, so that's the only downside I have seen so far.
That and the fact it's to damn nice to hide under the car.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nsaness and cappy p

· Premium Member
94’ Impala SS
Joined
·
569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #137 ·
My B-body fuel tank rule of thumb: if you can do a full-throttle run with the tank a quarter full and not have the engine stumble, it's better than the stock tank.
Lol; amen to that.
I will know soon enough. I installed the upgraded alternator yesterday, and I am going to snake the additional fuel pump wiring harness from the tank to under hood in a few minutes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
One nice thing about the dual fuel pumps is they're going to heat the fuel less than one bigger one running all the time. And the baffle enclosure looks like it holds what, about half a gallon? Enough to get you through first gear without stumbling, anyway.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,530 Posts
I see that reservoir capacity being directly related to how full the tank is.
If you launch on a 1/4 tank , the reservoir will be 1/4 full.
You see differently stonebreaker ?
If Staged pumps,
Boost , RPM , or throttle controlled ?
I would suspect boost with some timer would be the friendly way.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
I see that reservoir capacity being directly related to how full the tank is.
If you launch on a 1/4 tank , the reservoir will be 1/4 full.
You see differently stonebreaker ?
Well, yeah, but a quarter full right next to the pumps instead of way at the back of the tank.
If Staged pumps,
Boost , RPM , or throttle controlled ?
I would suspect boost with some timer would be the friendly way.
Probably depends on the individual setup. I'd want the aux pump running any time I had the nitrous system armed, for example.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nsaness
121 - 140 of 148 Posts
Top