rebuilding my original owner 94, 396cu in and RMCR centrifugal

15344 Views 161 Replies 19 Participants Last post by nsaness, 2 mo ago

nsaness

Discussion Starter · Jul 28, 2020

So my engine has the Torqhead installed (crank hub), the transmission is done and it was finally time to put the engine back in this weekend. I failed. My lifting chain was done all wrong and I ended up 2 inches short of getting on the motor mounts. The chain was hitting the firewall cowl, and would not push in any further.
I re-rigged the chain and will try again this coming weekend.
Ugh 😓

Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Automotive engine part

Auto part Fuel line Pipe Engine Vehicle

See less See more

2

Reactions: 1

141 - 160 of 162 Posts

shakenfake

· #141 · 4 mo ago

Hobbs switch is the best way to run dual pumps imo. Secondary Activated at boost levels and doesn’t leave you stranded if one pump fails.

Reactions: 1

95wagon

· #142 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Sorry , I have to disagree.
Your typical Hobbs has a very close on-off range and can get into a rapid on-off switching right at the threshold.
Used in conjunction a timer ? , sure so it stays on for a number of seconds after it drops back over the threshold.
Something with a thick film film transducer and some electronics so you could set on and off points separately would be more to my liking.

Too add , if you are going to run staged pumps in a tank with only one line coming out to the outside, you better be dam sure you can trust the pumps internal check valves !!!!

Reactions: 1

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #143 · 4 mo ago

On Saturday, I installed a Powermaster 200 amp alternator to deal with the extra fuel pump. I also crawled around under the car considering various fuel line and wiring options. I decided the tank was too heavy, and the whole job was too much for me, so I was at the mechanic yesterday to make an appointment.

The mechanic suggested I run the auxiliary fuel pump with it's own fuel line all the way up to the fuel rail and Y in (with the other pump) at the fuel rail. The pump activation was discussed and my mechanic recommended a Hobbs switch with a timer. I had never heard of such a thing! I was very interested to see Gerry mention similar when I checked in here today

.

Keep the opinions coming. I find the comments very helpful. I don' mind negative comments either. I am here to learn, and I do respect differences of opinion.

See less See more

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #144 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

95wagon said:
Something with a thick film film transducer and some electronics so you could set on and off points separately would be more to my liking.

Thank you for chiming in, with a good and safe way to do this. When you mention the set on and off points, can I assume these set points would be defined by engine RPM's? Or is this based upon boost as well? Thanks in advance for explaining a little more. At this point I with the car, I am in deeper water that I know how to swim out of.

95wagon

· #145 · 4 mo ago

If your mech wants a hobbs and timer go with that.
It will work great, no need to piss him of with
" what about this , what about that, the internet says this "
Settings ? If they work with boosted cars , let them choose.
Maybe , couple pounds boost and 15-30 seconds off after coming out of boost ?
Many different ways.

Reactions: 1

95wagon

· #146 · 4 mo ago

Low Pressure Flapper Valve, Male AN Fittings - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Our low-pressure check valves allow virtually unimpeded flow in one direction, yet the internal flapper prevents flow in the opposite direction. They are used in AN fuel and oil scavenge lines.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Not nessasarily saying buy here just a good illustration.
Detroit Diesels have beautiful ones but they are pipe thread

Reactions: 1

95wagon

· #147 · 4 mo ago

Is in

Motor vehicle Rectangle Bullet Font Asphalt

See less See more

Reactions: 1

Fix Until Broke

· #148 · 4 mo ago

I'm using the ball style check valve from Vibrant - No issues to date @ 17k miles.

Vibrant Performance

The Source for Professional Fabrication Components in the Racing and Performance Industry.

vibrantperformance.com

Reactions: 1

Dixon Kuntz

· #149 · 2 mo ago

Once I discovered what had to happen with the chain rigging, I think it will go in fine this weekend. I'll repost with success or failure, but doing the engine and trans together seems like the best overall way to do this. I'll admit if I am wrong after this weekend.

Reactions: 1

95wagon

· #150 · 2 mo ago

Fix Until Broke said:
I'm using the ball style check valve from Vibrant - No issues to date

Any idea of the cracking pressure?

Fix Until Broke

· #151 · 2 mo ago

Vibrant Website said:
Vibrant Performance Ball Style Inline One Way Check Valves are lightweight and constructed entirely from 6061 Aluminum alloy. Our Ball Style Inline One Way Check Valves are designed to prevent flow back of all varieties of fuel, oil or coolant. Vibrant Check Valves will stand up to the most rigorous operating environments and are capable of handling temperatures ranging from -30deg F to 400deg F and operating pressures up to 300psi. All Vibrant Performance Ball Style Inline One Way Check Valves are available in anodized black only. Cracking pressure is adjustable between 2-5 psi. Use Thread Locker when setting cracking pressure. Flow Direction: Male AN to Female ORB. [\quote]

SSandman

· #152 · 2 mo ago

nsaness said:
On Saturday, I installed a Powermaster 200 amp alternator to deal with the extra fuel pump. I also crawled around under the car considering various fuel line and wiring options. I decided the tank was too heavy, and the whole job was too much for me, so I was at the mechanic yesterday to make an appointment.

The mechanic suggested I run the auxiliary fuel pump with it's own fuel line all the way up to the fuel rail and Y in (with the other pump) at the fuel rail. The pump activation was discussed and my mechanic recommended a Hobbs switch with a timer. I had never heard of such a thing! I was very interested to see Gerry mention similar when I checked in here today .

Keep the opinions coming. I find the comments very helpful. I don' mind negative comments either. I am here to learn, and I do respect differences of opinion.

I'm running a 7.5psi racetronix Hobbs switch to activate my second pump. Probably 2k miles of logs and pump activation has never been an issue. No fuel spikes, no bogs, no lean spots. It works pretty seamlessly, even with a PD blower that acts pretty much like an on/off switch going from 0 to 16 psi an instant.

Only thing I don't like about a hobbs switch is if the switch DOES fail at any point, the engine will still be getting fed, most likely, with enough fuel from the primary pump to continue running at WOT but lean out catastrophically. That's why my whole setup kind of terrifies me, knowing everything is hinging upon one little switch working at WOT. Tossed around ideas of hobbs switches run in parallel for redundancy, LED lights wired to the switching side and in the end the best solution I came up with was just to pay close attention to my wideband at WOT and possibly set up a warning light for my fuel pressure gauge.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #153 · 2 mo ago

SSandman said:
I'm running a 7.5psi racetronix Hobbs switch to activate my second pump. Probably 2k miles of logs and pump activation has never been an issue. No fuel spikes, no bogs, no lean spots. It works pretty seamlessly, even with a PD blower that acts pretty much like an on/off switch going from 0 to 16 psi an instant.

Only thing I don't like about a hobbs switch is if the switch DOES fail at any point, the engine will still be getting fed, most likely, with enough fuel from the primary pump to continue running at WOT but lean out catastrophically. That's why my whole setup kind of terrifies me, knowing everything is hinging upon one little switch working at WOT. Tossed around ideas of hobbs switches run in parallel for redundancy, LED lights wired to the switching side and in the end the best solution I came up with was just to pay close attention to my wideband at WOT and possibly set up a warning light for my fuel pressure gauge.

My mechanic LOVED what Gerry suggested:

95wagon said:
Gauge with low pressure warning that is programmable?
Set a couple pounds below your safe pressure ?
2-1/16" Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (w/ warning)
They can be ordered with an output to run one of their blinding shift lamps.
I have this set up on my oil pressure with the shift lamp right behind the oil light lens in the dash.

I've been using Hobbs switches since I was 17 years old (without a failure), but I do have a lot of money into this version of my engine, so overkill is cheap insurance. I think Gerry's is a great idea, that will work.

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #154 · 2 mo ago

Tank is in, wiring is almost done. Car is so low to the ground, I can’t get a good picture.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Hood Vehicle

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire

See less See more

5

95wagon

· #155 · 2 mo ago

Judgements withheld until you shorten those hose clamps

Reactions: 1

cappy p

· #156 · 2 mo ago

95wagon said:
Judgements withheld until you shorten those hose clamps

The Sano King hath spoken 😂

Reactions: 2

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #157 · 2 mo ago

Picking the car up tomorrow

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire

See less See more

Reactions: 2

log1k

· #158 · 2 mo ago

nsaness said:
Picking the car up tomorrow
View attachment 210643

That looks like stage1automotive. Is Rob doing the work himself?

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #159 · 2 mo ago

log1k said:
That looks like stage1automotive. Is Rob doing the work himself?

Yes, Rob has done a lot on my car.

nsaness

Discussion Starter · #160 · 2 mo ago

Torqhead covers test fit.

…My winter project will be to re-route, re-do, and otherwise “clean up“ under the hood. The list of major issues is slowly shrinking; so I hope to get to cosmetics done before next Spring.

unrelated: I had a bully/troll moment today. I rumbled into Dairy Queen today and pulled into a wide spot. A family was sitting on a bench eating ice cream ahead of the parking spot. All 3 kids (under 10) jumped and screamed as I came to a slow stop. It was a weird overreaction.
When done, the family drove away in a silent Kia EV6. I guess the children thought my car was exploding compared to the silence of their spaceship. No respect for my dinosaur

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Car

Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive air manifold Automotive super charger part

See less See more

3

Reactions: 3

141 - 160 of 162 Posts