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Old threads are broken of course. I want o know what kind of adapters i should use for 18x10.5 on my wagon?also with extended studs would i be able to race on them?thanx
 

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Old threads are broken of course. I want o know what kind of adapters i should use for 18x10.5 on my wagon?also with extended studs would i be able to race on them?thanx
Are you hoping to use 10.5" wheels on front AND rear? That's alot of wheel to tuck under the front.

What is the wheel offset or backspace?

Extended studs are iffy for racing, especially if you're talking about a spacer of any signficant thickness. You should consider going to 1/2" or 14mm studs, as an offset to any greater stud length, to increase the "shear" margin on the studs.
 

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New corvette sticky (C4,C5, all types of vette wheels eventually)

Rebuilding corvette sticky, one post at at time, using things found in the Google archive.

freedomfury


I was wondering if the 18x9.5 Corvette Z06 Wheels They are all the same size. The offset is +56mm. There not the real ones That's why I think that there all the same size.
But my question is do you guys think they'll fit Impala 94-96
Zebrafive
You would need adapters to go from your current 5 on 5" to 5 on 4 3/4". the adapters would need to be about 2" thick. If I were doing this I would not order adapters until I had wheels "in hand" to verify the thickness of the adapters needed, since they would have to be custom made, read $500 or more. My REAL concern is if the wheels would be strong enough for the weight of our cars, I bet they are cast, not forged. Check and see if there is any kind of guarantee.
Here's a C6 wheel post from Rustic racing:
Big Black:
Sorry I didn't call you back last night... I had a couple of guys come up to pick up a few motors and they didn't leave until late.

I looked at your situation... with a +73 offset on a 10" rim you should be at 7.876" of backspace.
If we are shooting for 5.75-6.0" backspace for the wheels to fit nice... a 2" adapter looks like the answer. That would put you at 5.876" backspacing. I would rather stay at 2" because if they are a touch too thick you can always machine off 1/16 or 1/18 from the back... but if they arn't thick enough there's not much you can do.

Let me know if this looks like it'll work for you and we can get started on the order.
 

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2" adaptors in the front and rear should do the trick.......at least they do on my SS.

Granted......I don't have fender skirts in the rear.

I wrap my wheels with 285/40's. Same diameter as the stock 255/50/17's.

Also.......I'm thinkin' your wheels are actually 10" wide......not 10.5" I your wheels ARE 10.5", disregard my post!

KW
 

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If you've got 10.5's your gonna have to use the manual method. for the rear, anyway.

1. Put jack stands under the rear axle, so that the suspension remains loaded.
2. Remove rear wheels.
3. slide your vette wheels under.
4. Measure how much space you have between the wheels mounting pad and you drum.
5. Subtract about 1/2 inch for tire movement, and just flat out being wrong.

As for the front, I want to say that in the now M.I.A. Sticky that a member named Magnum DID run 10.5's on the front of a 9C1. They rubbed a bit, but he didn't mind cause he ran a huge tire.

And yes, many members autocross on vette wheels with adapters. Get adapters that are hub centric to the wheel and to the car, for added shear strength.
 

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Where could i find some adapters for a good price?
Lots of forum members have used this guy
http://www.wheeladapter.com/
If you talk to him right, he's very helpful, and has even sent a test adapter out to people before he made a set just so they could make sure everything fit. But forum member had a very bad experience with him. So YRMV!

These people actually build adapters for many other vendors. So they are very, very good. Not so cheap, though. I HAVE used them.
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/

These are the ONLY Firewood endorsed vendors. For whatever that's worth.
 

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honestly you ned to give up on using adaptors and find a set of wheels that fit.
 

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The all inclusive corvette wheel sticky (C5,C6, Zo6, whatever) READ FIRST!

Rebuilding the resource pool from the Google cache. Originally posted 01/11/2007:

When I decided to go the ZR-1 wheel route, I spent a lot of time searching and browsing for pictures to see what they looked like on our cars. Since I had such a difficult time, I figured that I should post my own once I got them


To start, here are a few pictures of a set of F-car wheels I borrowed to finish the 2006 autocross season while I was waiting to get my own. They are 17x9.5 MASITALY (aftermarket) wheels with 275/40 Yokohama A032R tires. The tires have an overall section width of 10.625 and the effective backspacing (from the tire sidewall to the flange) is 7.375". The tires only protrude about .125" beyond the wheel, so the wheel backspacing would be on the order of 7.250. The wheel adapters are 2.000"/2.375" (F/R):















These pictures are with the aftermarket ZR-1 wheels available from these people on eBay:
http://stores.ebay.com/O-E-Wheels

The wheels are all 17x11 with 50mm offset. Tires are 315/35 Hoosier A3S05 and have a total section width of 12.68 with an effective backspacing of 8.375. For this combo, I swapped the adapters so the thicker ones are in the front for better turning radius. Since the rear axle is not exactly centered in the car, I will probably get some rubbing on the left side frame.

But, since this thread is more about how they look than whether or not they work without rubbing, here are the pics:















Note: bonus points for the easy answer on which pictures were taken in PA and which were taken in FL
 

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Originally posted late Feb 2007:

Just an update on how these are working out. I got my own camber/caster gauge and found that that I could only dial in about 2º of camber before the wheel started rubbing the tip of the upper control arm.

Then, when I was setting the alignment up for last weekend's autocross when one of the cheapo 'tuner' lugs nut seized on one of the front wheel adapter studs. Spent 3 evenings drilling it out :mad: , but at least managed to not damage the wheel.

Since one adapter is trashed, I took the opportunity to order a whole new set of adapters that fit the car perfectly (only REALLY needed 3 to make a set, but the new ones are hub-centric). Now the fronts are 2.500", the right rear is 2.000" and the left rear is 2.750".

Just for snicks, I got a set of Speed Tech upper arms from RMS. Now, I have lots of clearance to the suspension and can turn the wheels lock to lock, even though the tires do touch the swaybar. The tires are pretty worn out Hoosier A3S05s, but they don't rub anywhere during racing.

Just because I want to experiment more than I care about the tires, I set the camber at 3.2º to see how it worked. The wear pattern looks like there is not enough bite on this old surface for that much camber, but at least I didn't have any rubbing. I will dial it back to 2.5º for the next race.

One thing is for sure, it REALLY turns in well now to the point of inducing immediate oversteer. Now that I have the front working fairly well, it's time to work on the rear...anyone wanna loan me a Hellwig bar and T2R to try out in 6 weeks? :D

No pictures of getting it really turned in hard, but Joseph Regner took this one at speed:


I will try to get a few more pictures of the car sitting still.

I will just update this post with what would have been on the later pages of the original thread, but is lost forever. Eventually, I sold the SpeedTech uppers and put early Rustic Racing arms top and bottom on the front since the SpeedTech lowers won't accept my rate HA swaybar mounts. Eventually, currently, I ended up with the car in this configuration for the street:












The fronts are 275/40-17 on 17"x9.5" 56mm offset wheels with 2.5" adapters. The rears are 315/35-17 on 17"x11.0" 50mm offset wheels with 1.750"/2.625" (RR/LR) adapters. There is enough room between the frame and rear tires to slide my fingers, but not hand, in...3/4" or so. None of the tires rub under any condition.
 

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Looking good Scott :cool: Do the speed tech arms have the greasable control arm bushings? The stock ones I put in last year are already trashed.


They still having the autocrosses at Homestead and Calder?


I run with the BMW club at the Houston Police academy. They use they road course and set it up w. bigger cars in mind. We have had the last two months off due to the heat but will resume in sept.


How's the motor build going?






Pics w/ driveway pavers are from FL;)
 

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thats nice scott, those are crazy wide...

ohh and first set of pics is PA and second is in FL...what do i win
 

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I thought I was going to see 09 Zr1 rims, lol. I was like, hes gota phat bank account.

Looks good though. I want my wagon to take corners one day.
 

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Looking good Scott :cool: Do the speed tech arms have the greasable control arm bushings? The stock ones I put in last year are already trashed.


They still having the autocrosses at Homestead and Calder?


I run with the BMW club at the Houston Police academy. They use they road course and set it up w. bigger cars in mind. We have had the last two months off due to the heat but will resume in sept.


How's the motor build going?






Pics w/ driveway pavers are from FL;)
Hey Rob, nice to see you survived Ike last year. Life has been crazy busy and I haven't raced since the Bay Bottom Crawl in October of last year. Haven't finished the motor up, either. Wonder if I can find that thread in Google's cache :)

My SpeedTech uppers had grease zerks, but I sold them like a year ago or so. As it turned out, I would have saved many hours of aggravation and subjecting my family to the profanity of fitting these Rustic arms. They didn't gain me any positive camber over the SpeedTechs, so I am still running around at almost -2º with practically no shims. Apparently, it wasn't the suspected frame sag, since the guy that bought the SpeedTech arms mentioned the same thing when he got them mounted up cwm3
 

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Pics of Vette C6 wheels:

2" adapter in front
2.5" adapter at the rear

Hotchkiss springs/swaybars front and rear
QA1's

Stock C6 size tires all around.




cwm4 dude I like that... whats the setup on that? how big of a difference in tire diameter does the abs allow, before it sets the code?
 

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I've never thrown an ABS code since these have been mounted.


This includes long distance driving (200 miles), auto-X and roadcourse at Impalafest 2008.
 
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