[Guest]

AC system suddenly quit on my 94 RMW (on the hottest day of the year here in Detroit). Worked fine one minute, then nothing but hot air coming out of the vents and smell of burning AC clutch under the hood, leading me to assume compressor seized (158K mi) Two questions: First, is it a job for the home mechanic to replace the compressor on the wagon?

I am aware that the system would need proper evac and fill to reinstall a compressor, but all the associated ac components may need to also be tested and or replaced so it kind gives me pause doing it myself. I cant tell exactly what caused the failure. My second question is having a professional examine / test the system and replace the compressor and all the necessary other components e.g drier, switches etc. and refill should cost about how much ??

Anyone had this service done recently replacing with a new or rebuilt compressor so I can get a feel for the parts needing to be replaced and cost for professional service? I feel that I might get ripped off at this time of the year if I dont have my info straight before seeking out a reputable AC shop.

Thanks!
Bill D
94 DCM RMW

 

[Guest]

Well, I've not replaced the compressor but last year, I had the A/C recharged. It was $50 for the work (general A/C service fee) and $65 for the freon (or whatever it is they use now). Hope that helps some!
Mike

 

[Guest]

I just replaced the compressor in my wagon a few weeks ago. It's not super easy, but not that bad either. My clutch just wouldn't engage on mine. I installed a used one that I had and knew was good. Since my system was only open for a little while I olny replaced the orifice tube. Then I pulled a vac on the system and charged it up. Works better then it ever has and only cost me $20.00

To get a warrenty on a new compressor you will have to install a new drier and probably a orifice tube. The compressor could cost as much as $400 (depends on where you go). I would take a guess that a shop would charge about $800+. $350 labor and $450 parts. Shopping around and doing it your self will save you a more than half.

 

[Guest]

Same thing just happened on my 95 caprice wagon. I haven't fixed it yet, but I've priced the parts. You can get everything you need from Dal for about $400 (new compressor, new orifice tube, new accumulator/drier) + shipping. That's the best deal I've found. Rockauto.com is about the same and Napa is a lot higher unless you go with a cheapy reman compressor ($250 vs. $440)

I plan to do the job myself.

Mike

 

[Guest]

Found a rebuilt compressor with 12K mi warrenty for $125 + 20 shipping. I guess the tough part will be taking everything apart to remove the old compressor, and hoping that I dont find the dreaded "black death" in any of the orfices!

Then I need to find a ac shop that will evac and fill the system for me even though they didnt get the mechanical work. BTW I got pricing at between 8 and 900$ for the job with all new parts.

 

[Guest]

I did a new compressor from Dal, since I've had "rebuilt" ones make noise and not work very well. Anyway, my lesson learned is that you have to clean out all the lines really good. Don't worry about evacuating the system and all that other fancy stuff. It's nice to pull a vacuum to check for leaks and pull the air out before you put in the freon, but it's not necessary. What I did was open the system at the orifice tube, compressor and reciever/drier and blow in both directions alternating between brake cleaner and compressed air. I kept doing this until I felt it was clean. The old compressors blow shrapnel throughout the system and the screen in the orifice tube only catches the big chunks. Once you've got it clean, assemble all the connections to the compressor, drier etc. Then just hook up your freon kit and dump in the specified amount listed on the fan shroud (I think) . That's it. Mine works great, it's so cold it freezes up the evaporator core constantly. I think I have to recalibrate my climate control system in order to let the compressor cut out once in a while. I think I may have messed up my calibration while searching for the built in tach, temp gauge, trans temp gauge, etc. in the climate control system. Anyway, I did it all at home without any vacuum pumps or fancy equipment and it works great, and no compressor noise at all.

 

[Guest]

My 95 RM compressor died a few weeks ago with a shutter. Working great one minute, dead the next and yes it was 33c or 90+f. Had my local mechanic do fix as it is not cheap or easy do to with the metal left in the A/C lines. There is no way you can flush the system your self. It must be flushed or you will be doing it again!!!! The crap went through the oriface tube, only the chunks to big did not make it!!!


My Roadmonster had 240000km's on it when the A/C went.

Keep Cool

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Wagonmaster:
I did a new compressor from Dal, since I've had "rebuilt" ones make noise and not work very well. Anyway, my lesson learned is that you have to clean out all the lines really good. Don't worry about evacuating the system and all that other fancy stuff. It's nice to pull a vacuum to check for leaks and pull the air out before you put in the freon, but it's not necessary. What I did was open the system at the orifice tube, compressor and reciever/drier and blow in both directions alternating between brake cleaner and compressed air. I kept doing this until I felt it was clean. The old compressors blow shrapnel throughout the system and the screen in the orifice tube only catches the big chunks. Once you've got it clean, assemble all the connections to the compressor, drier etc. Then just hook up your freon kit and dump in the specified amount listed on the fan shroud (I think) . That's it. Mine works great, it's so cold it freezes up the evaporator core constantly. I think I have to recalibrate my climate control system in order to let the compressor cut out once in a while. I think I may have messed up my calibration while searching for the built in tach, temp gauge, trans temp gauge, etc. in the climate control system. Anyway, I did it all at home without any vacuum pumps or fancy equipment and it works great, and no compressor noise at all.

The main reason to pull a vac is to remove moisture. Using a compressor to blow air through the lines justs add more water into your system causing premature compressor failer.

 

[Guest]

Any moisture will be caught by the dessicant in the dryer. But, I guess time will tell. As for the cleaning, it seems to me that 120 psi air and brake cleaner should blow out anything that's in there.

 

[Guest]

Just where in the lines is that orfice tube located on our wagons? The video I watched on AC repair last night ($6.95 @ autozone) showed it being inline on a CK truck at the connection to the condenser. The mechanic in the video also noted that the fittings frequently strip out when loosening the connection, resulting in the need to purchase a new condenser.

I like hearing the debate on the flush / no flush and evac / no evac options. I have heard of people doing it both ways. Depending on what I hear from you guys on long term durability of the two ways, I will decide how much by the book to go. (I am leaning toward geting the canister and flushing my self - then having a service shop do the evac and fill)


I work for GM, and my price for a new compressor is $309. If I look at the cost for the whole job doing it myself with GM parts and a shop doing the evac and fill, I only save about $350 over a mechanic doing it, so I am still thinking of using the $125 compressor to lower the total cost of the job. (the compressor seller has over 120 positive feedbacks on compressor sales so I think its a good bet....but then again its a lot of work to have to do over again!