I think I read about every post on the Forum regarding control arms, shocks and front end rebuilds. I decided to go all out, heck I have spent so much money over the years why quit now! I telephoned Jason at Street Trends who recommended I go with the Speed Tech tubular upper & lower control arms. Accompanying the control arms we agreed on a set of Viking coil over shocks. I purchased the heavy duty Mood rebuild kit and topped it off with a Flaming River steering shaft (FR1857-22S with the top 1" DD universal and the bottom at 3/4" 30 spline) The steering shaft just arrived today so I have no photograph yet, but will. I will add a pictures of the other parts as I am getting close to taking her to RMP Motorsports for the change over. THIS is the last thing I am going to do to her, other than drive the hell out of her!
In my professional opinion and have used all 3 in the shop it really doesn't matter. They are all about the same and made to each brands specs. It just boils down to price an warranty. I believe they are all made from same company
Unless your arms are damaged/bent, a good cleaning/paint and new bushings should work wonders. Original arms made 20 years ago by GM may be better quality anyway than what new aftermarket replacements are.
As far as wear items go (BJ's, bushings, tie rods, etc) you can't go wrong with Moog or Proforged. For the rubber parts you could consider going poly and Energy Suspension are pretty good.
If you do go new arms, you may want to look at going with some 5/8" lower control arms for beefier lower ball joint. This would require the spindles to be replaced to match up to the arms. If you are doing all of this, it's something to consider. Here is more info on when Doing the changeover to the larger BJ.
HP is much more than factory and I don't race it, however, it's what I want that counts. Why do some of us have T84 headlights? I have some friends that thought I was nuts when I placed a set of NOS 61 SS emblems on the front fenders! I have 90ZR1 wheels, Ram Air hood and many other very tasteful modifications that really were not needed but wanted.
I get you if you got the cheddar go for it. Do what you want with your money it's just you said ST recommended tubular arms which is overkill and not worth the money spent on them. But like I said if you Ballin like that then who cares what anyone thinks.
I totally agree with Iowa on this one. I just put all new suspension on my BBB as it was shot and front sway bar was bent from PO hitting a dear. I just felt like it was too expensive and over kill for all the high dollar suspension parts. So I installed KYB excel shocks front and rear, BMR sway bar and all new Raybestos bushings in front, with poly sway bar end links, and the Correct Upgraded GM rear lower control arms, and for less then $500 it was a heck of a good deal. Car drives very straight, smooth and handles well. Hell I just upgraded all of the bushings in my 61 with close to 400hp and I felt like aftermarket control arms would be over kill for that car. In my opinion anything over stock is just fine especially if you can get it for a good price. Only you can decide what is best.
I would just freshen up the stock arms but it's a daily and just seems cheaper to get all new arms then to take it somewhere to press new bushings. Like I said this is a daily so freshing them up would take a couple of days which I don't have.
You can get a loaner tool from Autozone or its equivalent, to replace the bushings and ball joints. They do not take as long as you think. You can do all of the lower bushings in a couple of hours. If you want to do the lower BJs too, another hour and a half. Upper bushings are a shop replacement item, because of the mounting bar. You can replace the ball joints in about 45 min. or less on each side.
Changing the bushings and BJs should not make any noticeable difference in the alignment. You can check the camber with a bullet level vertically across the rim of the wheel. The bubble should be close to centered, or just a little negative (bubble outside).
I agree with Fred. With the right tools and techniques you can replace the Bushings yourself in about an afternoon. No reason to take them to a shop and pay them to do it for you....PLUS the downtime of driving them there to drop off/pick up and the time it takes them to turn around the parts for you.
However, the Upper Bushings are not just a Shop Replacement item as you can do them yourself pretty easy. Having access to the right tools helps here as well and Advance or AutoZone should be able to hook you up. I borrowed the tool specific for this job from Advance and was real easy to use. This is mentioned the 5/8" ball joint thread I linked earlier but this has more specifics on just the Uppers.
Save yourself some money and Time and do these yourself. Keep in mind that you should get new Nuts for the Upper Shaft Mounts and I also have a thread on removing the Shaft Studs from the frame if you have trouble getting the arms off. Sometimes it is difficult to slide the arms off the Studs and removing the Studs from the Frame may save some aggrevation. Good Luck
EDIT - I realize after reading your post that you may be set on just getting new arms with the bushings already installed. That could save you some time but quite a bit more money than just bushings. In anycase, good luck with whatever route you go.
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Hello, I have my rear end out for rebuild and want to change my upper and lower control arm bushings while I have room to do so as well as maybe put some chassis paint on some areas where the vehicle needs it (surface rust) where the shocks and springs sit at top. I’ve been reading about upper...