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Anything special about removal and replacement I should know about? I replaced the opti, water pump, coil which didn't solve my problem with hesitation at speed. So I leave it for a couple of weeks and went out tonight to check for leaking spark and smell a fuel odor and trace it to the FPR which is leaking. Hopefully that is the problem.
 

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If you did an opti, then this is a piece of cake. 4 bolts hold the fuel rail on, and after they are removed along with the fuel lines/injector connectors/regulator vac. line, you just pull the rail off (pull straight up on the fuel rail, the injector o-rings will make the rail seem still attached, but with some wiggling, they will come out). After that, use the torx bit (i cant remember the size) to remove the fuel line retainer, then the regulator itself from the fuel rail. All thats left now is to remove the regulator from the output line stubs with a couple of wrenches, then put the new regulator on, reassemble the rail and put it back on!!
 

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I found that u dont need 2 remove the whole rail, jus release fuel pressure, unscrew the fuel outlet retainer clip(this is the retainer that holds both the fuel lines in position), then unscrew the fuel pressure regulator attaching screw & use a fuel line disconnect to disconnect the inlet tube & just remove the retainer clip & put it on the new FPR & lube the fuel inlet O-ring with clean engine oil place it into the new FPR & reattach the retainer clip. make sure to lube the new FPR O-ring (the one that presses into the back of the fuel rail) with clean engine oil & press it back onto the fuel rail & Loctite 262 is an option at the regulator attaching screw & Tighten to 10 Nm aka (89. lb in) or until its tight!! turn ignition ON for 2 seconds then off for 10 seconds then turn the ignition ON & check for leaks!!!! be sure to reconnect the vacuum line to the regulator also. Although removing the rail may make getting to the screws easier, I did'nt see a reason 2 do so. Also note the scews are the TORX type T-30 for the fuel pressure regulator attaching screw & T-25 for the fuel outlet retainer clip. I put a rag under the regulator during removal since fuel did leak out & the regulators does hold a bit of fuel in it as well.
 

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11 year old thread ...but t answer your ?

No need to pull FI fuse. Just push the Schrader valve on back of fuel rail, covered with rag, to release fuel pressure. Install new injectors, start engine. It will take some crank time for the engine to fire as fuel pressure builds back up. Just turn key to "on" position until fuel pump stops priming, just a few seconds, then turn key to start
 

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I found that u dont need 2 remove the whole rail, jus release fuel pressure, unscrew the fuel outlet retainer clip(this is the retainer that holds both the fuel lines in position), then unscrew the fuel pressure regulator attaching screw & use a fuel line disconnect to disconnect the inlet tube & just remove the retainer clip & put it on the new FPR & lube the fuel inlet O-ring with clean engine oil place it into the new FPR & reattach the retainer clip. make sure to lube the new FPR O-ring (the one that presses into the back of the fuel rail) with clean engine oil & press it back onto the fuel rail & Loctite 262 is an option at the regulator attaching screw & Tighten to 10 Nm aka (89. lb in) or until its tight!! turn ignition ON for 2 seconds then off for 10 seconds then turn the ignition ON & check for leaks!!!! be sure to reconnect the vacuum line to the regulator also. Although removing the rail may make getting to the screws easier, I did'nt see a reason 2 do so. Also note the scews are the TORX type T-30 for the fuel pressure regulator attaching screw & T-25 for the fuel outlet retainer clip. I put a rag under the regulator during removal since fuel did leak out & the regulators does hold a bit of fuel in it as well.
Nailed it! But I would Not use loctite on the FPR retainer bracket screw as the little teeny bolt on the bottom side is hard to get to and you'll appreciate the ability to spin it off with your fingers once it's loose! Also, I learned the hard way that the Lisle or OEM plastic (can't remember brand) as opposed to metal quick disconnect fuel line tool is much more affective at separating the fuel line from the FPR.
 

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Hello, my car engine is making a strange noise. As I was leaving Australia structural engineers company at last evening, the voice started up and the issue has not been resolved yet. I would appreciate any assistance you can provide.
Please don't hijack other people's threads. Start one yourself.
 
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