Any suggestions or pics from anyone ?
replacing power steering pump
Gonna replace the power steering pump on my 96 B-body, any pictures/help/suggestions? I'm going to try and take some pictures of my progress to help out in the future.
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No pics but I would suggest you get a Haynes or Chiltons manual first if you do not already have one. It should help out quite a bit. I've never change one on our cars but looking in the manual it does not apppear too difficult.
finished, but no pics
So I got it done, but forgot to take pics, sorry. Basically you need to be prepared for two things: 1) You're going to need some antifreeze because you have to take off the alternator and coolant hoses in front of the power assembly. 2) You will need a good quality puller to get the pulley off the front of the power steering pump, unless you can find a place that sales those pulleys, because the OEM doesn't come with one on it. Oh yeah, take your time putting the pulley back on the new unit because if you're like me and my friend and rush getting it back together you will forget to put the back bracket on the new unit. The bracket goes on first, then the pulley. If you don't do it in that order, get ready to be mad at yourself after you have to take the pulley you just put on the new unit right back off again.cwm3 And getting to the back of the unit to remove the lines is no treat either. If you've never done it before I suggest giving yourself at least 3 to 4 hours just in case you hit any hiccups.
So I got it done, but forgot to take pics, sorry. Basically you need to be prepared for two things: 1) You're going to need some antifreeze because you have to take off the alternator and coolant hoses in front of the power assembly. 2) You will need a good quality puller to get the pulley off the front of the power steering pump, unless you can find a place that sales those pulleys, because the OEM doesn't come with one on it. Oh yeah, take your time putting the pulley back on the new unit because if you're like me and my friend and rush getting it back together you will forget to put the back bracket on the new unit. The bracket goes on first, then the pulley. If you don't do it in that order, get ready to be mad at yourself after you have to take the pulley you just put on the new unit right back off again.cwm3 And getting to the back of the unit to remove the lines is no treat either. If you've never done it before I suggest giving yourself at least 3 to 4 hours just in case you hit any hiccups.
You can rent the puller from Autozone for free. You should be able to get the pump out without disconnecting the coolant lines, or at least, I was able to.
Don't forget to bleed the system once you are done.
Autozone also sells remans with a lifetime warranty.
Nice jog getting it done. You saved yourself a few hundred bucks that way.
Don't forget to bleed the system once you are done.
Autozone also sells remans with a lifetime warranty.
Nice jog getting it done. You saved yourself a few hundred bucks that way.
well, when I saw the pump sitting behind the coolant lines I figured it would save me some headache trying to wiggle the pump around the lines, and it doesn't take much if you pull the return line on top of the radiator first, then the line leading into the block (plus that reduces chance of getting coolant on optispark). and yeah i got the puller from Advance but ended up breaking the handle on it. But a big screwdriver did the same job holding the puller in place.
. But a big screwdriver did the same job holding the puller in place.Dealer gets 4 or 4.5 hours book for the job. They get like $100/hr. Ask me how I know all that. You did good.
how did you disconnect the line on pump behind the accessory bracket?
I don't think we have anything small enough to get them.
very interested in how you did that.
I don't think we have anything small enough to get them.
very interested in how you did that.
Replaced mine about 4 years ago with a used one. Took me about 5 hours. IIRC the hardest part was getting the line off the back of the pump. Now its starting to whine again on slow turns so im thinking its gonna need replacing again. This time im gonna go with the Lifetime warrantied Autozone pump. Love having parts with lifetime warranties.
I've heard that it's a 50/50 shot that a replacement pump will whine right off, but functionally be fine. Don't know if that goes for all pumps or just the OEM replacements.
Does anyone have the Haynes/Chilton handy to type out the steps? I am going to go looking for one (after almost 9yrs having the car, never decided I wanted to more work than I couldn't do without the books).
We can't find the bitch bolt on the accessory bracket to get it off.
A good thing though, while under the car, we saw that one of my passenger side lower control arm mounting bolts lost the nut & is backing out!!!!!
We can't find the bitch bolt on the accessory bracket to get it off.
A good thing though, while under the car, we saw that one of my passenger side lower control arm mounting bolts lost the nut & is backing out!!!!!
I went & bought a Haynes & um . . . uhh, there's no major relevation on it & we had basically done most of the steps Haynes listed (except drain coolant/ps res).
But bottom line is, after reading everyone's post, I realized it all just might be my tensioner. We had taken it off & it seemed pretty loose. We got another one and damn, new one is stiff. By time we got back to the tensioner on the car, the old tensioner case had split! Put new one on and all the interior lights seemed brighter and huh . . . it could fix it!
All that still doesn't fix the control arm bushing bolt from being sheared. Gotta fix that still . . .
But bottom line is, after reading everyone's post, I realized it all just might be my tensioner. We had taken it off & it seemed pretty loose. We got another one and damn, new one is stiff. By time we got back to the tensioner on the car, the old tensioner case had split! Put new one on and all the interior lights seemed brighter and huh . . . it could fix it!
All that still doesn't fix the control arm bushing bolt from being sheared. Gotta fix that still . . .
That page is ripped out of my haynes book so im gonna type the steps up later so i dont lose it. My pump went bad yesterday.I went & bought a Haynes & um . . . uhh, there's no major relevation on it & we had basically done most of the steps Haynes listed (except drain coolant/ps res).
But bottom line is, after reading everyone's post, I realized it all just might be my tensioner. We had taken it off & it seemed pretty loose. We got another one and damn, new one is stiff. By time we got back to the tensioner on the car, the old tensioner case had split! Put new one on and all the interior lights seemed brighter and huh . . . it could fix it!
All that still doesn't fix the control arm bushing bolt from being sheared. Gotta fix that still . . .
if i cut the metal line in the back down the middle, to add a rubber hose in the middle to make a extension would that be a bad idea?
The ideal tool would be a 16pt+ box wrench with a cut out opening to get the line past and slip this tool on the nut, extend the handle as well.how did you disconnect the line on pump behind the accessory bracket?
I don't think we have anything small enough to get them.
very interested in how you did that.
You could reach it by taking the pass side wheel off and lift the car on stands.
With the car lifted as above...
What I did was take the alt off. 2 bolts
Take the 2 round bar brackets that mount to the alt off.
One offsets to the block and the other goes stright below the alt right by the outlet fitting on the pump.
You can reach those 2 nuts from taking the pass side wheel off and use a swivel or knukle whatever they call it with your socket wrench and 2 6" extensions.
Then take off the bolt that holds the bracket for the 2 coolant lines that bolt to the alt. bracket.
Shove something between the bracket and the coolant lines to hold the to the pass side, I used my mallet.
That gives you enough room 45-60 degrees to use a 15mm(?I think) open end wrench.
I didn't replace the pump only the line from the pump to the gear box, as well as the gear box and the line from reservor to gear box.
I have a thread here http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=235056
From what I understand....I've heard that it's a 50/50 shot that a replacement pump will whine right off, but functionally be fine. Don't know if that goes for all pumps or just the OEM replacements.
Most Chryslers do it.
Most Jeeps do it.
Some Dodges.
Sometimes you cant get all the air out of Fords.
Very few GMs have problems.
Out of the box, brand new.
If you have no leaks and are pretty sure the pump is good you can try 2 things.
Bleed the lines with different kind of P/S fluid..
Or pop the top on the reservor once in a while to let the extra air built up, out.
I put my money on the first.
If you bleed the system, don't do it with the car running.
You can lift the car on stands and turn it back and forth with the reservor cap off and the return line in a bucket, this will take days...
Or take the coil wire off of the optispark and crank it over in timed short bursts to prevent the starter from overheating.
Pretty sure the coil wire is on the top of the optispark on the pass side, some help to clear this up, I'm not too sure bout that.
http://www.9c1.net/9196 BBody Parts Manual/9196 BBody Parts Manual/html/9196 BBody Parts Manual.htmlWe can't find the bitch bolt on the accessory bracket to get it off.
Page 1190 might help..
Good idea to make it easier to assemble, but depending on what you use to tighten down the rubber hose on the steel hose, the pressure might blow it apart or you may develop a leak. I'd leave it alone.if i cut the metal line in the back down the middle, to add a rubber hose in the middle to make a extension would that be a bad idea?
Thanks, printed for future. I hope not to be in a position I have to pay a shop when the next one goes down.
And appreciate the link for the manual too!
And appreciate the link for the manual too!
Navy Lifer gets credit from me for the manual, he posted it to help me in my post with the gear box install.Thanks, printed for future. I hope not to be in a position I have to pay a shop when the next one goes down.
And appreciate the link for the manual too!
I wouldn't do that.if i cut the metal line in the back down the middle, to add a rubber hose in the middle to make a extension would that be a bad idea?
This is a dead thread, but just to add...
I just had to take mine out and it was a bear inching the metal line off the rear with a 15 or 16mm open end wrench, but the other issue was getting the OEM hose clip off. I struggled for a while before cutting the rubber return hose and replacing it during reinstallation.
I couldn't bring it through the opening until I pulled the pulley and took the plate off (between the pulley and the pump).
-Brent
I just had to take mine out and it was a bear inching the metal line off the rear with a 15 or 16mm open end wrench, but the other issue was getting the OEM hose clip off. I struggled for a while before cutting the rubber return hose and replacing it during reinstallation.
I couldn't bring it through the opening until I pulled the pulley and took the plate off (between the pulley and the pump).
-Brent
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