Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the opportunity to purchase a BU4 1996 Caprice with a rod knock for $700. It runs and drives good for a 100,000 mile car. You cannot hear the knock at idle but only after 2,000 r.p.m. I guess I have a series of quesions:

1.) How long can this engine go with a slight knock?

2.) In this layout can all the work be done from under the car without removing the engine? I ask because the main bearings were changed on my moms Buick from the 1980's by dropping the oil pan.

I have 1991 in the stable, but $700 for an lt1 powered 1996 Caprice seems to nice of a deal to pass up!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
I've never tried to rebuild a bottom end with the engine still in the car but knowing what I do about the LT1 and the B body, it would be an enormous headache. Continuing to drive the car with a rod knock is going to cause more damage to the crank and rods. I would park it until I could rebuild the bottom end.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
I'd say stay away for an LT1 to have a rod knock at 100k it had to be beaten and abused. And really theres no telling how long it will go before it lets go, could go 100 miles could go 10k miles.

Also I'd say engine must be pulled but I'll let some one else chime in on that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,947 Posts
The motor definatly needs to be pulled to do the bottom end but for 700 id absolutely buy it especially if you have another car on deck. take your time with the 96 see if you can get a whole new/used motor for it might be cheaper than getting someone to rebuild it ya know?
 

· Banned
Joined
·
1,259 Posts
If it doesn't start till 2 grand, its prolly not a rod, but a main bearing,buy it , and just install some new bearings in the rods and mains. but its easier to pull the engine and so it , be a good time to reseal everything while its out. Rings usually last a long time in these motors so I wouldn't mess with em. If the car is nice buy it .
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it doesn't start till 2 grand, its prolly not a rod, but a main bearing,buy it , and just install some new bearings in the rods and mains. but its easier to pull the engine and so it , be a good time to reseal everything while its out. Rings usually last a long time in these motors so I wouldn't mess with em. If the car is nice buy it .

I wouldn't mess with rebuilding it unless it was a fairly cheap job that would be snuck in through the bottom. I would go with the approach of scoring another engine. I am assuming it just cheaper to score a junkyard enging with a warranty and replace the whole thing.

Another point Rockford: I too thought it wasn't a rod knock if it wasn't occuring at idle. It takes some revs for it to occur.
 

· Banned
Joined
·
1,259 Posts
Trust me, only caprice all did was replace the main and rod bearings, the ring and cyls on thse engines last a long time, that is why I wouldn't bother rebuilding it. for 700 bucks, and a weekend worth of work you can't go wrong.
 

· Banned
Joined
·
1,259 Posts
Something else I thought off, these engines are bad for cracking the flexplate around the crank bolts and making a knocking noise too..lol could be a cheap fix.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Something else I thought off, these engines are bad for cracking the flexplate around the crank bolts and making a knocking noise too..lol could be a cheap fix.

Really!!!! Thanks for the FYI. I wish all the stickies worked here. How is the data retrieval going???


Also I was looking at that optispark. Sure is a lot different then the old fashion sistributor at the back of the intake approach. Does the crank pulley have to come off to replace the optispark?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Rockford is giving good advice.... Tese Cars are Tanks, and can go upwards of 300,000 if properly Maintained and Serviced....

Yes the Crank Pulley needs to be removed, but it is nowheres near a Pain-In-The-aSS a Traditional one is! Some just need to rent a Pulley Puller from your Local Auto Parts Store, but I Lucked Out and Got mine off by pulling on it after unbolting it..... Most Cases an Opti can be rebuilt just like your Standard Distributor, but for the Price of the Rebuild kit, you can buy an All New one.... I kept me old one for a Quick Rebuild if I need a Spare(It is actually just carboned, and can be easily cleaned to get the Car home if needed)....
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top