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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have time slips to show the improvement? I have heard pros and cons on doing the work. Before I spend 400 on parts and 150 at least to have the parts put in I would like to know that I should have a gain in ET. I ran my best 14.09 with a 1.81 60' and 94 MPH.
, at Bradenton Drag Strip Thursday night,Temp about50 deg.
I have a set of Tubular Manifolds coming, but any additional help will be appreciatred. I need to get into the 13's. Thanks Nat
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
a tenth or two and ability to rev at least 400-500 more RPM are the usual result. Often more dramatic if your OEM valvesprings are "tired"......read that as anything over 70-80K miles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is my setup:
The spring/1.6 combo from CM.
Tubulars.
AT catback
warpig airbox
BH tuning.
T 56
4.10s
276 RWHP
I think the springs help make the T56 more enjoyable, as the engine now readly revs to 6K.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
RR's and valve springs are a good start to get you in the 13's but you also need a cam, headers (are on the way) and finally some programming. That will put you in the 13's.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by marx96ss:
RR's and valve springs are a good start to get you in the 13's but you also need a cam, headers (are on the way) and finally some programming. That will put you in the 13's.
RRs, valve springs, headers, and cam are NOT required to be able to run 13s. The basic intake and exhaust boltons, good torque converter, gears, sticky tires and programming should be able to do it in decent weather at a decently prepped track. My car ran 13.75 with those and a worn out posi 3 years ago.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by ÃÐïا§ ©:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by marx96ss:
RR's and valve springs are a good start to get you in the 13's but you also need a cam, headers (are on the way) and finally some programming. That will put you in the 13's.
RRs, valve springs, headers, and cam are NOT required to be able to run 13s. The basic intake and exhaust boltons, good torque converter, gears, sticky tires and programming should be able to do it in decent weather at a decently prepped track. My car ran 13.75 with those and a worn out posi 3 years ago. </font>[/QUOTE]Darn Straight. Roadmaster96 hit 13s and you should see his minimal mod list compared to some others. Some cars are factory freaks and some others are just lazy motors like lenny
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It didn't seem as if the guy was saying that it was MANDATORY to get into the 13's, he just said it was a good start, which is true.

Having said that, I have the stock rockers and cam, no head or throttlebody mods other than the coolant bypass, and I ran a 13.9 @ 95* on the stock 9C1 steelies and without Bryan's programming having been dyno tuned.
(Meaning that I have the BH tune, it just hasn't been optomized by Bryan on a dyno.)

I should be able to drop to 13.5-ish with a dyno tune and aluminum wheels.

Meaning that the RR and Valve springs should ACTUALLY get me within shouting distance of 12's.

Meaning that YES, it's a good mod, especially if you go to the Beehives.

For the record...
I have discussed this issue with Lloyd Elliot, and HE thinks RR & Springs are worth it too, so with HIM on board; I'd say this issue is settled

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* (13.8, corrected to sea level.)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by Buffman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by ÃÐïا§ ©:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by marx96ss:
RR's and valve springs are a good start to get you in the 13's but you also need a cam, headers (are on the way) and finally some programming. That will put you in the 13's.
RRs, valve springs, headers, and cam are NOT required to be able to run 13s. The basic intake and exhaust boltons, good torque converter, gears, sticky tires and programming should be able to do it in decent weather at a decently prepped track. My car ran 13.75 with those and a worn out posi 3 years ago. </font>[/QUOTE]Darn Straight. Roadmaster96 hit 13s and you should see his minimal mod list compared to some others. Some cars are factory freaks and some others are just lazy motors like lenny
</font>[/QUOTE]Nobody was claiming it that it was a MUST. The guy posting the topic said he had already purchased the rr's and springs therefore I mentioned the CAM since many guys go that route. I did not say it was mandatory, you 2 are the ones that are making it sound like it was mandatory.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I deff felt the difference after I got some 1.6RR's and new srpings. Car would rev up higher and pull through the entire RPM range.

However, I still can't get out of 14.3X with all the mods in my sig (even had 52mm tb) on street tires and stock drivetrain. I really wanna try on some slicks or even some drag radials...but I doub't 13's will happen. My car is a factory dog :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Since you all are already on the subject of RR's, I figured I'd ask. I basically have an all stock 9C1 (intake and exhaust mods) and I was wondering what a set of 1.6 RR's and some fresh springs would do for it? Keep in mind a stock cam.
You've got one of these factory dogs too? They're no fun at all. :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
While I'm reading this, I'll add some fuel to the fire. I'm running 1.6 RR with CM springs on my RMW, along with SLP headers, PCMFORLESS and a 3.73 gear. This is my third wagon, but my first with the upgraded rockers and springs(they were already installed when I purchased the car).

I would agree that the car does seem to rev and feel better at higher RPM, but does this come with a cost? It just doesn't feel as strong down low(less torque?). Let me know what the experts think. We all have big heavy cars, I want all the low end torque I can get.

Sorry, if I hijacked your post, but it was intended to add to the topic.

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How much would a set of RR's and Valve Springs cost...? Is there anything else that would need to be done during that "project"??? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Originally posted by SS ROCKS:
Eric TheBald... How do I convert my 14:09 to sea level? I may already be in the 13's
You have to look up your correction factor, or at least one that is at a height near your home track.

For instance, the factor for Thompson Drag Raceway in Ohio is .9874, and I THINK that was 1300 feet when I looked it up. It might have been less because I think I looked up the correction for what the difference between Thompson and Englishtown was. I honestly don't recall, except that .9874 is correct for MY track.
 
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