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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening everyone. I just want to take a second to pick everyone’s brain. So I have a 94 BBB. battery died on me the other day. So I replaced the battery and also replaced the alternator with a 140 amp on since I was changing it anyway. So now when my car is at idle the battery voltage gauge runs about halfway. That is until I give the car gas then it sits up where it normally runs. What am I over looking here? Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks.



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"replaced the alternator with a 140 amp on since I was changing it anyway. "
140 Amp is stock on a SS and on a 9C1. Which is what your cluster came from.

13 Volts is normal for a hot idle in Arizona. I would expect a higher reading for a cold Alaska start. Regulators have temperature control so the hotter they are the lower the voltage. I expect a little higher when the engine is above 1500 RPM.

For real answers take a reading with a test meter at idle after a drive that warms up the engine and charges the battery. Then tale a maximum reading with some higher engine RPM.

A bad battery will usually fool the alternator into charging at a higher voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A no tools check would be to turn your heater fan to high then turn it and the headlights on at the same time. The voltmeter might twitch but it should not drop.
I’ve done that and it’s dropping. I honestly think I have bad ground somewhere. Reason I say that () if you get in the car with no key in the ignition and push the cigarette lighter in the gas hand shots past full. Once it releases it goes back to normal. Then if I push brake pedal in the gas hand shots below full and one you release it the hand goes back to normal. It’s having a few more gremlins and when I pull the codes I’m getting they are all electrical so I’m leaning towards a bad ground.



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Seems to be a common issue on the forum. R&R right fender ground, block to battery, the one on the head by the ICM and the coil, left and right kick pannel grounds, and the one by the trunk hinge. Some would help the gas gauge, some will help the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seems to be a common issue on the forum. R&R right fender ground, block to battery, the one on the head by the ICM and the coil, left and right kick pannel grounds, and the one by the trunk hinge. Some would help the gas gauge, some will help the alternator.
Thanks. When I get to work in the morning I’m going to check/ clean all of them and see what happens


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I’ve done that and it’s dropping. I honestly think I have bad ground somewhere. Reason I say that () if you get in the car with no key in the ignition and push the cigarette lighter in the gas hand shots past full. Once it releases it goes back to normal. Then if I push brake pedal in the gas hand shots below full and one you release it the hand goes back to normal. It’s having a few more gremlins and when I pull the codes I’m getting they are all electrical so I’m leaning towards a bad ground.



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I have the same issue with my gas guage at the moment. When I press the brake, the gas guage shoots past full. The cigarette lighter pushed in making the gas guage shoot up is a new one to me. I’m still looking
 

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I would go with the grounds at the base of the driver's side A pillar first. That is where the gauge ground is located.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Figured out my main issue today. It’s the cheap opti that’s in the car. Time to rebuild my ac delco one I guess


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Based on everything you've posted to this point, what indicates to you that the opti is the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Took it to my mechanic yesterday. All the other issues I had were from the ground at the kick panel on driver side not getting good connection and the plug for my temp sensor at the water pump was bad and making the car run rich. The car still has a slight skip and it coming from the cheap optispark ( autozone) keeps throwing a low resolution code even after swapping the harness to ac delco harness.


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I have the same issue with my gas guage at the moment. When I press the brake, the gas guage shoots past full. The cigarette lighter pushed in making the gas guage shoot up is a new one to me. I’m still looking
I have the same problem on my 1962 Corvette with the fuel gauge going to full at the press of the brake. Never thought of a ground being the problem. Have you found the problem?
 

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I have the same problem on my 1962 Corvette with the fuel gauge going to full at the press of the brake. Never thought of a ground being the problem. Have you found the problem?
 

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I have the same problem on my 1962 Corvette with the fuel gauge going to full at the press of the brake. Never thought of a ground being the problem. Have you found the problem?
 

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Took it to my mechanic yesterday. All the other issues I had were from the ground at the kick panel on driver side not getting good connection and the plug for my temp sensor at the water pump was bad and making the car run rich. The car still has a slight skip and it coming from the cheap optispark ( autozone) keeps throwing a low resolution code even after swapping the harness to ac delco harness.
After 2 weeks, you probably already changed the Opti-Spark.

It's generally wiser to check - or even just throw at it - the following parts before removing the H2Opump to replace the Opti-Spark:
Coil wire
Coil itself
Coil driver module
Opti-snorkel aka Vent & Vacuum Harness

All of those often get overlooked when the symptoms seem to point to the Opti-Spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After 2 weeks, you probably already changed the Opti-Spark.

It's generally wiser to check - or even just throw at it - the following parts before removing the H2Opump to replace the Opti-Spark:
Coil wire
Coil itself
Coil driver module
Opti-snorkel aka Vent & Vacuum Harness

All of those often get overlooked when the symptoms seem to point to the Opti-Spark.
I wish I’ve had the chance to change it but between work and Christmas that’s been a no go. Thanks for the check list of things to check. Everything you posted I have replaced when I replaced the optispark but I won’t hurt to test it all again cause lord know I don’t want to pay for another opti but to be honest I want to that this autozone POS opti off anyway. I wanna send my ac delco one to the guy off eBay for a rebuild or pull the trigger on the a new Delphi opti I’ve found. . Christmas just has my play funds looking a little shaking and I don’t want to hear the old lady’s mouth about me wasting money on my “toys”


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Discussion Starter #17
I have the same problem on my 1962 Corvette with the fuel gauge going to full at the press of the brake. Never thought of a ground being the problem. Have you found the problem?
Honestly haven’t had the time to attack it but gonna five head first into it after Christmas. I’ll keep y’all posted


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