[Guest]

How do I separate the ball joints (upper and lower) from the spindle without having to replace the ball joint. I just replaced the upper ball joint on the pass side and put everything back together (lower was done previously). Now I have the driver's side torn down (Needed to have a shop press the lower BJ in) and now I'm thinking of cutting a half a coil from my stock springs. But I need to take the pass side spindle off without jacking up the ball joints.

The universal pickle fork is going to destroy the joints. Will the BJ specific fork do the trick?? Thanks and sorry about the long post

 

[Guest]

I've always had good luck by supporting the frame with jackstands(let a-arms droop), take out upper and lower bj cotter pins, backing the nuts off by no more than 2 turns and, using a drilling hammer(pretty sure that's what it's called, basically a 2 pound sledge head with a short handle), rapping the spindle at the ball joint area. If you use a hefty hammer, you don't have to hit it outragously hard. The spring pressure will force the a-arms apart. Then you can use a spring compresser and jack to complete the disassembly. I guess it sounds barbaric, but it really does work pretty well, and nothing gets damaged in the process. Just make sure not to back the bj nuts off too far.

I'm sure the factory tool works great, but I've never seen one except in pictures,and can only imagine the price.

 

[Guest]

Use the larger ball joint pickle fork and you should be all set. I've split mine twice (once to install springs and once to replace) with no problems at all. Some say that by oiling the forks, you stands less of chance of tearing the grease boot. When I did mine I did knick the boot slightly though.
-Chip

 

[Guest]

Perfect. I'll try that out. I got the BFH, just need to find a suitable object or drilling hammer to rap the spindle with.

Thanks!

Edit: If that doesn't work I'll pull out the ball joint fork.

 

[Guest]

I am in process of a complete front end rebuild.
I did not use a pickle fork, or a hammer.
I used a gear puller for the ball joints
(three arm) and a pitman arm puller for the tie rod ends. No pain, no messed up parts and about 5 min per joint.
U can rent all these tools from a rental supply store or buy them at an auto parts store. Have fun.

 

[Guest]

I always use a pickle fork and a hammer. dust boots get torn sometimes but they're cheap to replace, so if you ruin them, don't worry about it, it's like 2 bucks for a new set of them.

 

[Guest]

If you're removing the spring, just pull the two bolts on the inboard side of the lower control arms. Pull the shock and lower with the jack. No messing with the ball joints at all.
I did this to install new springs. The only PIA was aligning the holes back up.

 

[Guest]

I have popped my ball joints several times. Here is what I do...I hope I can explain it correctly.

I take a relatively large bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the end of the bolt and put a large socket on the end with the nut. The nut needs to be bigger than the socket. Put this "bolt, nut, socket" assembly in tightly between the upper and lower ball joint studs with each of the ball joint nuts loose. Use one wrench to turn the nut and another to hold the bolt from turning. This will make the "bolt, nut, socket" assembly spread apart. Keep turning until the ball joints pop free. This requires no hammer, no torn dust cover and not blows to the ball joints. It is nice and easy.

Mike

P.S. Ron, the first time I took apart my front end I did it the way you describe. It is a royal pain the you know what! popping the ball joints is MUCH easier and quicker.

 

[Guest]

Alan, YGM!

 

[Guest]

I changed out my lower ball joints last year. I had the big hammers, pickle forks and such. We busted the ball joint press. hammer and fork did not work !!! So we pulled out the smoke wrench (torch) and they just fell out. Had to be carefull not to get things to hot, but my cousin is a welder and knew what he was doing. Had both sides done in 30 minutes. To put them in, heated both lower Arms and tapped them in with a wooden block and a hammer. hope that helps.

Shawn

 

[Guest]

Thanks for all the methods guys!

I've tried the removing lower a-arm bolts way twice and I'll never do it again. PITA lining those holes back up. I still have nightmares

I'm going to go after the ball joint pickle fork. The gear puller sounds pretty cool though too. Might have to try that out.

Bad Rod, I'm trying to picture how that works. I think your description was good, but I'm having trouble thinking this morning

Does the nut push the socket deeper into the ball joint/control arm area or do I have it all wrong?

bruiSSer YGM!

 

[Guest]

Hanes shop manual has a good pic of what BadRod explaned. I've done that on other cars but found the gear puller to be more simple.
Good luck and watch out for the coil spring!!

 

[Guest]

Alan,

I will try and get a picture later today.

FMJSS, I have a set of gear pullers. I will try that next time!

Mike

 

[Guest]

Bad Rod, I figured it out

. Like FMJSS said, there's a excellent picture in the Haynes manual. I used a lower control arm bolt and nut as I didn't want to run to the hardware store.

Worked mint! Gotta confess when the lower BJ came loose it scared the sh!t outta me . Usually I'm not that close to the action, plus I got caught off-guard

Thanks again for all the info and help!

 

[Guest]

Alan,

Cool! Yeah, I could have mentioned that when the ball joint pops free it might sound like a gun shot going off! hee, hee..

Mike