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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Not much to report today. After 24 hours in the oven, the UCAs, diff covers, and disc brake backing plates are fully cured (the stink has gone). I’m using an infrared heater to cure the paint on the body. Black paint is great at absorbing IR; I’m pleasantly surprised how warm these surfaces are getting.
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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
You may want to look into getting a used stove and putting it in the garage if you bake parts a lot. Keeps the fumes out of the main house and the wife happier.
I setup a pipe from the stove vent directly to the range hood intake so no fumes get in the house. It's basically a closed system. But yes, I totally agree otherwise.
 

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Intake in a dishwasher would get me killed, lol. Thankfully we have a hot tank, diesel fired pressure washer and this other really cool hot water cleaner that I don't know the name of at work. Have to close the door and put your hands in these giant rubber gloves. Also have a pretty big sand blasting cabinet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
One of my kids gave me a bunch of lip when I asked him to do an easy chore; so he got to drop and test the valvebody with me. The other kids knew what was coming and laughed at his dumb choice after they finished the chore in 15 minutes. Pan off, so far looks good.
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In case you wondered, if you pump out the pan via the cooler line, then let the car sit for six months, there will be another three quarts in the pan waiting for you. If you lower it carefully, those three quarts will be about 3/4” below the rim.
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A few bits of junk in the pan. More clutch dust then I would like to see for 3000 miles. For God's sake, if the shifts are softening, don't keep beating on it. They won't get better. Figure out what's causing the low line pressure and fix it.

Magnets are very clean. I will check the debris with a magnet, but likely they’re aluminum.
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Discussion Starter · #288 · (Edited)
Junk in the pan doesn’t tell you anything specific. Let’s get this thing on the Sonnax vacuum test to get some real data.
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The results are in red. 25” is a perfect seal, and 5” is a horrendous leak. 15” is a general make/break threshold. I need to take a break for the night, but there’s an awful lot of line pressure test points that are below 15”. some of these test points have end plugs as part of those circuits and adding a Sonnax 77964-08K O-ringed end plug may be a cheap and fast fix.

On a bright note, the Sonnax TCC regulator valve test points are 206A and 206B. 25” is a perfect seal, and that valve is darn close. You can see the three other valvebodies I tested with the factory TCC regulator in place; horrendous leaks.
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207A is the AFL valve (albeit not stroked as Sonnax recommends ). I’ll go back and retest it per Sonnax, but 22.5” is really good; unfortunately that likely means the Pressure Regulator valve in the pump (above the boost valve) is worn. The transmission has to come out and the pump needs to be removed and disassembled to be fixed. More to come when I have some mental time to put into this.

Here is another version of the Sonnax 4L60E valvebody guide I use, showing key areas to test and which parts are available to fix it:
4L60-E_VacTestGuide.pdf (d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net)
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
I go out this morning to get parts for the mobile machinist to fix, and the garage door won’t open. I guess we used up its 10,000 cycles (took 25 years). I’m hiring a company to fix this.
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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
Good news: the garage door guy showed up within 5 hours after I called. Bad news: the torsion spring is right in front of the impala and the impala is not movable. So he can’t get a ladder in there to wind it. “Can you put a spring on the other side?” ‘Yes, but I don’t have any reverse wound springs on the truck. We’ve got a bunch of them at the shop!’ Darn. So he’ll have to come back another day. EDIT - apparently my hand pointing to the spring is sensitive content. Up to you if you want to click on the photo.
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@95wagon good idea; unfortunately it's on a lift and this guy isn't the most careful fellow I've ever met.

@Z09B4U just a ladder. Believe it or not, the price to fix the spring was darn near the same as me buying the spring and winding rods online. The garage door repair market is very competitive in this town.

Part of me is toying with waiting until I get the Impala mobile again to have the door lifted and fixed. Once I get the old brake line loose and out, I can start reassembling the axle. But the valvebody is out, so it's a roller at the moment.
 

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Believe it or not, the price to fix the spring was darn near the same as me buying the spring and winding rods online.
Lucky.
For my parent"s 50+ year old door the pros had milage fees, minimum time costs, and were sure they had to replace the door.
The local companies did not stock springs light enough for a single aluminum door and shipping them in would be expensive.. The old hardware store had one pair left that were close so I used them and added weight to the door.

I too would rather have a company wind up the type of spring you have.
 

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Seriously , pretty light spring in a residential door , but I was joking about doing it with the car there.
If one of the bars slipped out while tensioning it would make a nice mess .

Not a big deal really .

Hope I havent just jinxed my 30 year old springs .
 

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apparently my hand pointing to the spring is sensitive content. Up to you if you want to click on the photo.
I'm offended by your dirty fingernails, LOL. Seriously though, I'm surprised you don't have 2 springs on your door judging from the picture.
 
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