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Hi, this is still fun to read.... Sorry i don't have any riveting info to add, but i think the L99 had 588 stamped into the block and like you said 327 in the LT1 block.

-ALF out.....
 

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I remember our family road trip [...] my minivan
Any long-distance plans for the Impala? It's fun to see well-kept "old" cars with out-of-state tags on the Interstate.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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The pavement gets so hot here in the summer that the tar in the road melts and sticks to your shoes!
We have stuff like this happen in Chicago, so I can only imagine what it must be like in places like Arizona.

As a kid, I remember seeing a homeless guy frying an egg on the asphalt outside Wrigley Field.
 
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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Any long-distance plans for the Impala? It's fun to see well-kept "old" cars with out-of-state tags on the Interstate.
I am signing up for the 2021 ISSCA Nationals in western Michigan. I went to the 2020 Nationals just for a day due to work and family commitments and had a blast, even in my minivan.
198609


198610


After a little while it blends right in...
198611
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
It was a great time; I highly recommend attending even if you can only come for a couple of days. If you've had a less-than-stellar experience in the past with certain personalities, that vibe is gone. I had a great conversation with everyone I talked to.

198612


Since we had the whole track rented out... they let me run in the "others" class.
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198615


Better reaction time on left; the van's coilpack was going bad but I hadn't yet figured out that was the culprit, so I had to be a throttle jockey off the line to avoid the WOT misfires. Normally a 17-second car is super consistent.
198616
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Are you using anti seize on the manifold to converter studs and the converter to exhaust pipe bolts?
Oh yes. As a guy who used to live in Syracuse NY, anti-seize was mandatory. I bought stainless bolts for the converter to exhaust pipe bolts, but interestingly the threads were much looser than the regular non-stainless grade 5. They held, but the difference in clearance was noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Before we get too far away from the transmission install, the '94-96 factory crossmember was tricky to remove early in these cars' lives, but since the body mounts have compressed in 26 years, it's usually squished between the frame and the body. I used floor jacks and lots of wood to lift the body slightly. This gave enough room for crossmember removal and installation. I also trimmed the outer edges and then repainted them. They are not carrying any load out on these corners anyway. (FYI, I stopped halfway through the cut and took this picture so you can see how much I took off).
198645
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Here is the AC compressor rear bracket, showing the slotting you should do to the engine block mounting hole.
198649
 

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Maybe this is a redundant post; if so, I'll delete it later. The new steam pipe came with the little seals on the lower left. Apparently they are prone to leaking; the tribal knowledge solution is to replace them with Dorman oil drain plug seals, part number 097-025. You'll need four. You could also build your own steam pipe, but be aware that the thread on the heads is NOT tapered like pipe thread, since it's banjo bolts flowing the fluid. Given that Keen Parts sells these for around $90 plus shipping in the US, and they took a lot of coaxing to fit, I may just build my own next time.
View attachment 198482
Odd question:

How crucial is the rubber portion of these washers? Would it be silly to use solid metal washers?
 

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Before we get too far away from the transmission install, the '94-96 factory crossmember was tricky to remove early in these cars' lives, but since the body mounts have compressed in 26 years, it's usually squished between the frame and the body. I used floor jacks and lots of wood to lift the body slightly. This gave enough room for crossmember removal and installation. I also trimmed the outer edges and then repainted them. They are not carrying any load out on these corners anyway.
View attachment 198645
Does trimming make R&R easier?

For some reason it makes me nervous cutting so close to that hole. Isn't there some sort of "engineering" behind the bends in the steel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Does trimming make R&R easier?
For some reason it makes me nervous cutting so close to that hole. Isn't there some sort of "engineering" behind the bends in the steel?
Yes. If you've had to remove one, you'll know why I trimmed it. I trimmed other edges as well. As far as engineering, if you draw the load path, it doesn't go through those outer edges (as far as my judgment goes).

As to the steam pipe seals, you need something that confirms to everything else around it. Copper washers might work, like how they are used between brake hoses and calipers.
 

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Yes. If you've had to remove one, you'll know why I trimmed it. I trimmed other edges as well. As far as engineering, if you draw the load path, it doesn't go through those outer edges (as far as my judgment goes).

As to the steam pipe seals, you need something that confirms to everything else around it. Copper washers might work, like how they are used between brake hoses and calipers.
Is that Dorman part number for OUR drain plugs?
 

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Mkay.

I'm hoping it will be a fairly universal part. As long as the center hole is bigger than the threads of the bolt, the outer edge is smaller in diameter than the head of the bolt, and it has rubber in it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Sometimes a car is apart for so long, and you scrapped the old parts so long ago, that a new part that's bad just confounds you to no end. Why doesn't this part work!?!

I bought a new harmonic damper, painted and clearcoated it, and installed it. LT1 harmonic dampers only bolt on one way; the three holes are not symmetrical (2nd new damper for reference (I'll explain "2nd new" soon), but notice the bolt hole offsets don't match up when I intentionally put one bolt in the wrong hole.)
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LT1 dampers have a thick lip and a thin lip; the thick lip faces out and the thin lip faces in. But when I bolted on the damper, the only way the holes would line up was with the lip facing in. Well, then the pulley didn't line up!

So I bought a second damper, and just stacked them on top of each other with 3/8" extensions to line up the holes. And they lined up back to back.
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Even the threaded puller holes lined up perfectly! Something is screwy.
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Notice the six holes on the left side one; all but the leftmost hole are off-center. It turns out this one was drilled upside down at the factory.
198810


So I sent it back and used the other one. Boy that was frustrating. You start to wonder if you're losing your mind!
 

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That would have driven me absolutely nuts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Ever have something that you just dread, but when you finally do it, it only took a few hours? Well, reinstalling inner fenders was for me. They come out so easily when you don't care about scratching them. If the bolts aren't too rusty, they come out in 30 minutes per side. But, trying to reinstall powdercoated fenders that you took out nearly two years ago became a very intimidating task.

First thing I did was replace any rusty speed nuts with new ones, then spray every one of them, and all of the interior fender edges with motorcycle chain lube. This product comes with corrosion inhibitors in it, has a solvent to allow it to spray on and creep, then the solvent evaporates and you're left with a tacky but flexible anti-corrosion coating. I went through two cans of this stuff putting the front end of the car back together.

So I taped up a lot of things and started gently sliding the fenders in. I didn't photograph this, but getting the rear of the inner fenders not to scrap on the bottom edge of the outer fenders just in front of the doors was tough. Lots of tape there.

Also, the area just at the front where the outer fender and bumper cover meet; I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get this in without them scraping each other like crazy, so I finally just took my grinder and cut a 45 on the backside of the outer fender flange, and then everything played nice.
198860


Here is the fender finally in place. Way too much time into this. Lots of axle grease to keep the bolts from scratching as I tightened them. The lower right corner shows the edge that wasn't playing nice with the outer fender. A lot of gentle maneuvering to get it up and in place.
198861


That surface is many coats of 3M rubberized undercoating. Boy that stuff stinks as it dries. The inner fender was beautifully powdercoated, but powdercoating is not invincible against rock chips.
 
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