[Guest]

Well, after the bucks I spent rebuilding the engine, it's going to take a while to get the parts together for the nitrous system. I doubt it will be on the car before fall, if at all this year, but I've started.

Anyway, a couple of things: Don't pay through the nose for a new nitrous bottle. I picked up a used (but newly DOT recertified) 20# steel bottle and valve for less than a hundred bucks. An aluminum 20# bottle and valve from NOS is $300 in the Summit catalog. And the bottle came with a high flow valve - Summit charges an extra $106 for this piece. Not that I need a valve capable of flowing 500hp. Yet.

Caveats: Valve is not chromed, it's plain brass. No biggie for me, Brasso and I are old friends. Tank may or may not be painted. I ordered mine with just primer since I'm going to paint it to match the car anyway (actually started on that project last night). You will also need to put a bend in the dip tube yourself.

Second, Where did you guys mount the fuel/nitrous pressure gauges? I bought an Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge and mounting cup the other day on the way home from the track. Only place I can find to mount it is on the hood. Don't really want to drill holes in the hood - at least not where I can see them if I ever want to take the gauge back off. Any suggestions?

 

[Guest]

Of course, I had to drill holes!!!

 

[Guest]

Well then, looks like this is a job for... ******* ENGINEER!

 

[Guest]

Oh yeah...The place to go for the bottle is an industrial gas supplier.

 

[Guest]

I'm in the process of mounting my electric fuel pressure gauge

Autometer makes a full sweep electric, but its pricey. I opt'd for the 'regular' electric

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I saw Gregs progress on his gauges, three in the a-Pillar pod, it lookes good to me.

 

[Guest]

I finally figured out a way to put in the mechanical gauges without drilling all the way through the hood.

BTW, George, found out something interesting yesterday. Seems that the double Walbro in-tank setup is actually available retail. The Buick guys even have a pressure switch that turns the second pump on at around 12 psi of boost. It's made by ATR and is called a 'double pumper'.

 

[Guest]

hey Randy,

I saw where TNT also sells that set-up. Sounds like a good way to go if you can get around the skinny wiring.

If you do that, I would suggest a length of at least -8AN fuel line in the engine bay. This will keep the pressure switch from shutting off the N2O when you first hit it. With smaller lines, the pressure drop is enough at switch-on to set off the switch, even if you have a big pump.

 

[Guest]

I thought about putting a small accumulator in line, as well. Probably overkill, but seems like a good idea...

 

[Guest]

Great idea, absolutely NOT overkill.