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Just get the complete FEL-PRO front end set. And there's no "cam" gasket, only the WP and crank hub. I have at least 3 timing cover gaskets, along with a dozen WP gaskets and countless others in my collection. Spectre makes a perfectly fine replacement rad for a car that survived 25 with the original. I just replaced mine and it appears even a liitle better quality than oem.

Just an errant and random observation, but willing to blow a wad on a fancy pants radiator, while minseing over pennies on gaskets? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #22
By cam I meant the gasket for the optispark.

My question on gaskets was more due to durability. They're cheap enough that price isn't really relevant, quality is. I should probably drive it more than I have been (haven't wanted the toddler spilling in it so haven't driven it much in the last couple of years) but even if I drive it more it'll probably still sit a lot.
 

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If you're giving the car to that toddler when she/he can drive it, then never too soon them getting used to riding in it. And I've spilled, thrown, dropped, broken, and left things in mine a whole lot worser than any little brat could come up with. ;)

Sounds like you're taking your time. You doing plugs and Magnecor or Taylor wires while you're in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'm considering it. Undoubtedly the car has original plugs and wires; it's not aluminum heads so less concern about extraction problems but better to do it before it's a problem. I'm also mulling doing home-plate delete and possibly first-base delete with the F-body part while I'm at it, and since I live in an emissions area, trying to determine if I can do an AIR pump delete, or if I have to leave the pump in-place even if I follow the disable-air-pump TSB. I'd rather remove it entirely if the car will pass the emissions equipment inspection without it, and since the bracket is in the way for doing the water pump it would be handy to know before digging in.

Since it's not my DD I can afford to spend all of the time in the world getting everything worked out before turning a wrench. In the past that sort of thing was a pretty big problem.
 

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Along the lines of being reliable indication from forum archives for the past 25 years, if it's any other emissions state than CA then you shouldn't have much problem with completely removing it. If feared of it though, just remove all but the tube for the plugs and wires and store it until your next inspection. If they fail you, then reinstall to impress the nice inspector you saw the error in your ways and have repented to the legal path.

And with the sticker on just take it off again.

BTW and FTR a simple HD Sewer Pipe Fresh Air with swissed air filter is the 2nd mod that should be done on any LT-. Mandrel cat-back is the first. Keep all the bases and whatnot for turning it back to 100 points. I have 3 complete sets gathering dust.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My car is never going to go concours, even as low miles as it is. I've already done the rear axle trailing link upgrade, to the adjustable kind so that the axle is centered and can be aligned, and I've done helper airbags in the rear coils and put on a tow hitch.

That said I'm not usually one to get rid of parts. I just have a hard time doing it. Of course my workshop is just cluttered with stuff and I even still have the original never-mounted spare tire and wheel (put a matching wheel in the trunk), someday I really need to get back to the various projects that have built up over the years.
 

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1995 Impala SS, approximately 39,000 miles. Car doesn't get driven much.

Went to check on warm air conditioning and found that the front of the motor is pretty greasy. Also found some pretty extensive sludging in the coolant overflow bottle, smells/feels petroleum based. There's also evidence on the front of the water pump of coolant. Last couple times I drove it I got a low-coolant light for just a moment, but the car had been sitting for a couple of months so I didn't think much of it. There has been a mild drip when the car is parked. I haven't particularly smelled oil while driving, including yesterday when I had windows down due to the AC not working.

I've read some of the older threads talking about the radiator oil cooler going bad and high oil pressures pushing oil into the coolant. I figure that's likely the cause of the contamination, but with the timing of the front of the motor being greasy and the evidence of possible coolant leaking at the water pump wanted to get opinions on if these are separate problems that are coinidentally happening at the same time, or if they're related. I haven't dug-in too far yet obviously.

Car doesn't feel like engine power is affected.
Adding to what others said...
Get rid of the dexcool, flush flush flush!
The red coolant turns to red clay after many years, and clogs up your cooling passages. Pull the lines on the heater core and flush that out. Check radiator for oil cooler tank crack coolant contamination. RnR as necessary. Once clean replace with standard 50/50 green coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It doesn't have red coolant. Green cap, green ethylene glycol.
 

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Adding to what others said...
Get rid of the dexcool, flush flush flush!
The red coolant ........
Gary, welcome to the forum. Perhaps the guidelines are different here than on other apps, but now that you've joined take some time to get acquainted with the site. And if you have a tri-9 B- or D-body you should put together a signature so everything knows what car you have as reference.

The original poster (OP) replied 2 days ago responding to a similar comment as yours, so get in the habit of reading all replies before contributing. It'll help reduce confusion and makes future search of these technical archives more productive for everyone.
This car is pre-dexcool, still running glycol, green dot on cap and everything.

You raise a good point about the color. But it's orange, not red. Anyone with a '96 up with red AF had better do a complete flush IMMEDIATELY with either oem Dex-Cool, or even the new 'universal all' type.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You raise a good point about the color. But it's orange, not red. Anyone with a '96 up with red AF had better do a complete flush IMMEDIATELY with either oem Dex-Cool, or even the new 'universal all' type.
Such people finding actual red coolant should probably also check their transmission fluid.
 

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Dam fine point! That's so obvious I hadn't thought of it. Hahaha

And sort of just kiddding on the Barrett/Mecam angle. Not holding my breath for a 55-year old black 'Limited Edition' Caprice to be anywhere the same auction numbers as '66 Camaros / Chevelles / Vettes / Novas currently are v. the same year B- body.. ::sad::
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Huh. I'm putting my shopping cart together at Rockauto and Amazon. I'm finding whole distributors on Amazon for less than the cost of the cap. What's the deal? I did start a thread on it, figured others might want to chime-in without digging through this thread.
 
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