Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,383 Posts
How can I tell if my smog pump is going?
On the front of the motor drivers side located under the coil there will be a black fairly good size cylinder looking unit, that is the air pump, if it isn't there it isn't installed LOL the lines are attached to the top of the exhaust manifolds and run in between the two manifolds and to the air pump. Relay in the underhood electrical panel would be removed as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,383 Posts
Sh%^ sorry man I must of read wrong, I am retarded when I read fast :)

Well usually it will throw a code. DTC 48 and you will notice hesitation, but the check valves could be passing exhaust gas as well, if they don't hold 10 inches of vacuum for 10 minutes they are bad, water intrusion into the pump can be a problem as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK the reason I suspect the smog pump is that I have a bad clicking sound up around where the smog pump / ac is. I had a caddy that did the same thing so i think it might be the smog. I have tried to figure out reading the codes on my 93 rms but its a whole lot different than on my caddy. I know how to pull them but everything else looks Chinese to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,383 Posts
Ah you have a 93 RMS I would assume, sorry bud, couldn't tell you on the airpump on that. I would think that it would be different on that motor. Probably the same design though, usually the air pump only runs at start up if it is eletrically controlled and not belt driven.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,472 Posts
You can tell when it is going after you remove it and it is in the trash truck...then it is going to the dump.

You can remove it and plug the 4 ports with cast iron/galvanized black pipe plugs (1/4 inch). The fittings can be removed with butterfly sockets or vice-grips. They appear to be a chore, but come out more easily than you might think. Another option is to cut the tubing close to the fitting, and use a socket.

Beyond that, this is the proceedure I followed:

Its very simple really, the whole trick lies in the belt routing. The stock setup in a clockwise manner: Tensioner, over the alternator, down to the power steering pump, under the crank, under and over the water pump, back to the ac compressor. The problem in just removing the pump with this belt routing is that the tensioner will interfere with the belt coming off of the water pump to the AC compressor.
To remedy the situation a different belt routing is necessary. Clockwise instead of having the belt coming off of the power steering pump going to the bottom of the crank, have it come up over the top of the water pump (CCW), back under the water pump then around the crank (CW) and off the bottom of the crank to the AC compressor, then under the tensioner, across to the Alternator, and back down to the PS pump. All of your accessories will turn as they did, and you will be able to remove the pollution pump.
You will however need a longer belt. Use a Dayco or equivalent 965K6 belt. It is basically a 96.5" 6 rib belt. All parts stores stock just about every length of belt in every width. They should be able to find it using these numbers. If you have an under drive pulley you will need a # 935K6 which is actually shorter than the stock belt by one inch.
Note: I used the 96.5 inch belt, but you could use a very slightly shorter belt as well (1/4 inch?). The 96.5 inch belt will put the tensioner at about mid "good" range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Here's the routing in pictures. This is on a 93 Caprice wagon. I've used 95" and 96" belts on it. Either size works.

 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top