You can tell when it is going after you remove it and it is in the trash truck...then it is going to the dump.
You can remove it and plug the 4 ports with cast iron/galvanized black pipe plugs (1/4 inch). The fittings can be removed with butterfly sockets or vice-grips. They appear to be a chore, but come out more easily than you might think. Another option is to cut the tubing close to the fitting, and use a socket.
Beyond that, this is the proceedure I followed:
Its very simple really, the whole trick lies in the belt routing. The stock setup in a clockwise manner: Tensioner, over the alternator, down to the power steering pump, under the crank, under and over the water pump, back to the ac compressor. The problem in just removing the pump with this belt routing is that the tensioner will interfere with the belt coming off of the water pump to the AC compressor.
To remedy the situation a different belt routing is necessary. Clockwise instead of having the belt coming off of the power steering pump going to the bottom of the crank, have it come up over the top of the water pump (CCW), back under the water pump then around the crank (CW) and off the bottom of the crank to the AC compressor, then under the tensioner, across to the Alternator, and back down to the PS pump. All of your accessories will turn as they did, and you will be able to remove the pollution pump.
You will however need a longer belt. Use a Dayco or equivalent 965K6 belt. It is basically a 96.5" 6 rib belt. All parts stores stock just about every length of belt in every width. They should be able to find it using these numbers. If you have an under drive pulley you will need a # 935K6 which is actually shorter than the stock belt by one inch.
Note: I used the 96.5 inch belt, but you could use a very slightly shorter belt as well (1/4 inch?). The 96.5 inch belt will put the tensioner at about mid "good" range.