[Guest]

here were a few recent photos under the car while the trans is out

 

[Guest]

The 95's must really be different than the 94's as that looks nothing like under my car. LOL

 

[Guest]

yea, and i bet yours don't have a watts link either. looks nice. good work.

 

[Guest]

Thank you for keeping us updated. It is cool to watch somebody that knows what they're doing on a project like this.

I can't even find the right size screw to fasten my armrest back on my passenger door

 

[Guest]

Very nice Crispix. Did you build your watts? First time that I have seen a watts link on a b-body. Thanks for sharing the photos

 

[Guest]

should be the first time you have seen 5' i beam control arms on a b-body too.

yes, we built everything. all 3/4 heims joints in the WATTS link. (3) 3/4" bearings. the mount points did not turn out as pretty as i had wanted, but everyhting else was beautiful. I probably over killed the crossmember, but rather over kill than under.

 

[Guest]

i just need to buy another billstein for the back to replace a broken one so i can put those back in the rear again.

 

[Guest]

Looks great .... but I'll be the first to admit I haven't a clue as to whats going on....Why all the tubing ??

 

[Guest]

these were my 60's style truck arm suspension...
heres a couple photos from the build.
They tie into the frame right behind the drivers seat, or about a foot past the trnasmission, and extend back at a slight angle, go under the bags, and under the rear axle.

 

[Guest]

mas photos... http://www.flickr.com/photos/crispix396/sets/917622/

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Crispix396:
all 3/4 heims joints.

Just in the Watts link, or on the truck arms too? The reason I ask is because you need rubber bushings in the truck arms to deflect to reduce bind.

With the truck arm setup, you essentially turn the axle and arms into one giant sway-bar. Without the rubber bushings having some "give", the axle will only be able to move up & down, not one wheel up/one wheel down like it should.

It looks like you know what you're doing, but that comment stuck out to me.

 

[Guest]

Nice job.

 

[Guest]

yes, my fault there. and i corrected it up there too. 3/4 heimz in the watts link. Rubber bushings are in the mount of the arms. 2"x 3" sorry about the mistyping.

 

[Guest]

i have to admit im a little worried about the whole 400+hp to the wheels and the setup, but nothing a brick wall wont stop right

I trust my planning, and i trust my welder.. but you know how you might get a little paranoid at times.

 

[Guest]

Cool

Where will your exhaust go? Exit before the rear tires?

That should ride great and handle pretty good (for an air-bagged 4500+lb car) :thumbsup: You've got me thinking about tackling my my wagon's suspension when I'm done going "pro-touring" with the chevelle

Why do I have this desire to tear apart my perfectly good running and driveable cars to do a bunch of work to them when I have several projects that NEED work???

 

[Guest]

nope, exhaust will go all the way back and out the bumper.

 

[Guest]

i think i have tackled just about everythign ont his car.. only thing i havent taken apart is the break system. besides that EVERYTHING has been touched.

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Crispix396:
nope, exhaust will go all the way back and out the bumper.

I guess I'm not used to seeing truck-arms on anything this wide I see you've got plenty of room for exhaust outboard the truck-arms, and with your custom floor, you can pretty much run it anywhere you want anyway

 

[Guest]

actually its a biper bitch. I made the drive tunnel wide enough to put 3" exhaust and the drive shaft... and then I actually put 3" exhaust and a drive shaft in there. the way it is, they leave the headers, go to 3" magnaflow cats curve to the middle run under the axle, then 3" dynomax ultraflows 3" outs to the bumper.

remember my gas tank was raised 8" to allow for mufflers and heat shielding adn the rear cross support was removed and another raised, just so i could put the exhaust out the bumpers...

 

[Guest]

i originally wanted teh truck arms to be wider. its one of those, that in my head i think "if i could do it again' but really i made it as wide as possible. If i was smarter, I would have known a thinner tubing that would have been sufficient, and maybe not everkilled it. but safe than sorry.. i hope

its all 2" square with 1/4 wall & braced to hell.