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Discussion Starter #1
The saga continues.

I have the new ECM connected to the Fleetwood's engine wiring harness. I uploaded the tune into the PROM emulator, hooked up the ALDL serial data port, turned the ignition on wuthout cranking the engine, and nothing happened.

But hey, nothing happened! No smoke, no weird clicking, the car didn't start itself and drive through the wall! :D :D :D

At this point I think I am using the wrong mask for tuning, so I am speaking with the guy who designed this system to hammer out the details and get this car working ASAP. It's so close I can hear that 6.3L stroker now...
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Very cool, hope it works well--because that is going to be one AWESOME Fleetwood once running :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Got the new idle break-in tune ready to roll.

I'm going to upload it into the ROMulator tonight. A friend of mine and I are going to attempt to get the computer to work properly tomorrow. I probably won't break the car in tomorrow but I can certainly dream...

But hey, the Trans Am will be done by end of December even if this Fleetwood eats another engine. Just in time for the icy months in Charlottesville
 
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Discussion Starter #5
and I was hoping you would break it in during that "scenic drive." ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yesterday I applied a voltage to the fuel pump and the car sprayed gasoline all over the floor of my garage. I think one of the quick disconnect fittings wasn't seated and popped off, if that's true than it's a 5-second fix.

On a positive note - the ~$99 Walbro 255lph builds pressure REALLY fast and was actually very easy to install with no splicing.

 
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Discussion Starter #8
Success with the wiring, fuel pump works fine now. The ECM has to behave before I can break in the new engine but I'm dealing with that now.

It appears that Elias and I have a grudge match set for some time this spring :cool:

My toy as it will be by end of March:
4L60 (though not for long with this much power)
1100rpm stall
3.73:1 ring/pinion
Custom mandrel bent 2.5" true duals
Long tube headers
383 Vortec stroker
4-injector TBI
Embedded Lockers engine management
Three lumbar supports
Old man "exit" seat memory button functional

I saw we start the race LeMans style, but we have to use walkers for the sprint across the track
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds good, just hope the transmission holds up for more than a day.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by coleman:
Success with the wiring, fuel pump works fine now. The ECM has to behave before I can break in the new engine but I'm dealing with that now.

It appears that Elias and I have a grudge match set for some time this spring :cool:

My toy as it will be by end of March:
4L60 (though not for long with this much power)
1100rpm stall
3.73:1 ring/pinion
Custom mandrel bent 2.5" true duals
Long tube headers
383 Vortec stroker
4-injector TBI
Embedded Lockers engine management
Three lumbar supports
Old man "exit" seat memory button functional

I saw we start the race LeMans style, but we have to use walkers for the sprint across the track
Ooh, Ooh, Let me know when and I'll make the trip!!! I got my walker all shined up too... :D
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like a plan to me!

I am going to give you a call sometime next week Coleman, we need to get together :D
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I spent about an hour and a half with the guy who owns Dynamic EFI, very helpful


Though... It looks like Best Buy messes up again
My ECM was not turning on because the wiring in the ignition circuit was hacked up during installation of TWO aftermarket remote starter/alarm systems. Tomorrow I hope I can go and solder it all back together properly and it'll stop floating the ground at 1.5V :eek:

So hopefully I'll get this wrapped up soon.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Ok. I apparently ain't been keeping up. This sounds pretty neat there Coleman. 6.3 - what is that, 386? An LS- something?

I know there's got to be a good reason why you did not just leave the original ECM alone for initial startup, whiiiiiiich leads me back to maybe it's a LS- motor and they just don't run the same as ours. But, you did say stroker - so now we're likely back to the LT-. I'll google 'Embedded Lockers Engine Management' in a while, but in the mean time,

You got some 'splainin' to do there, man.

But, your quest has me sure interested.

And we ain't Eeeeeven gonna start into why you gave your car to a Best Buy for even 5 seconds.

 
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Discussion Starter #15
The previous owner let Best Buy ruin the PCM with that remote start crap...

As for the motor he is using, it is a 6.3 liter 383 Vortec! Should make some crazy torque... truck like torque... :D
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by 96 Black:
You got some 'splainin' to do there, man.
You didn't read my modifications list, did you


Here's some history on my mess of a car:
The L05 blew up after a heater hose cracked, leaked all of the coolant out, and with no instrumentation I was basically left in the dark. I installed a L31 Vortec engine, complete, from a Suburban. The L31 block is JUST different enough to be a total pain in the ass. The rear main bearing siezed on that one - I got screwed by the wrecking yard and I'm just relieved it was so cheap. The new engine is a 383 Vortec (TBI) with some neat goodies inside, high nickel four bolt, all that. They told me 435hp and 450ft-lb torque, I don't believe it.

I suspect it won't be too slow, but the primary purpose is to tow.

My ECM -- STILL not working!!! It's doesn't look like the ECM itself (whew) but it's some type of electrical gremlin in the ignition circuit. I might have a dead ignition switch, since when I jumper the battery lead to the ignition lead the ECM starts to do stuff. I'll play with that today.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Good news (sort of).

I bought a new multimeter, since my old one said my battery was 19V
and tried out some more of the circuitry.

I was able to jumper battery to ignition, and the ECM worked. The "Pass Key Fault" light turned on since the key was not in place, the fuel pump primed for two seconds, and the SES light did its "everything is ok" blink. That all means that the ECM is reading the prom.

Now to find out why my regulated 5V reference was giving me 10V! Yikes!!! :eek:

I am starting to think that some of the pins were damaged in the pinout swap, and the connections in the ECM harness connectors are not to good. Although none of this forgives Best Buy for sucking.
 
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