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Hey Everyone,
Well, being out of the game for 2 years was really hard, sold my White 95 9C1 back in 2005.
Commited to getting out of debt, then saving up enough $$ to buy mint SS and thought this x-mas would be perfect! I found a couple that were so so then stubbled across this one...WOw, what a beauty i tell you.

Now for my challenge:
I appologize in advance as I know very little about sound systems, amps, or subs :(
Add simply said "custom sterio" which didn't phase me as i thought it was only a new head unit that played MP3 or something like that. Was I ever wrong when i went to see it and what a nice "custom" system it is!! Original owner of this ride was the owner of many expensive cars who basically kept them as toys, shined them once in a while as he barely drove them and for this one, he decided to have some fun and install a system in it.
when I went to see the car, the head unit worked (turned on) however none of the speakers in car or subs would work. Not to sure what it was (I think a "relay" maybe or the breaker was off possibly?
when I went back to purchase car, all was running unbeleivable and sound was sick, bass thumping like mad and clear inside car. The GM dealer who sold me car bought it from original owner and best client dealership has, bad part is that he does not have any of the spec on this system, I know nothing of what's in this car!!!
All dealer told me was that if i was not using the car for a while, I should flip the little breaker switch to cut the flow of power to sytem as it will kill battery. I asked him how long "a while" meant and he replied a few days.
I got home with car first night i bought it and parked it outside around 10pm with switch "open" as I was going out next day. Went to take it out around 4pm next day and all i got when i went to turn key was "tick", nothing else at all. No crank, no attempt to roller over and start, nothing at all. Battery was full power.
We went under hood, closed switch, then reopened it and car fired up right away, no problem at all. Drove it around for a few minutes then parked it around 5pm for rest of night.
24 hours later (with switch left open) I went to start car and the battery was completely 100% dead. Outside lights barely come on, dash light barely visable and car wont even try to crank. Something is drawing insane power from this car and I don't know how to fix this :confused:
I don't have any idea what kind of system I have, meaning if it's good or not, how much power it draws or how I should move forward.
I like the system so I want to keep it, just want as much feedback on your thoughts after looking at images attached below.

For starters, this is what the system looks like with the trunk open. As you can see, there is also mirrors in the trunk lid


This is the flooring in the trunk, all custom done and gorgeous!!


[ 02-03-2007, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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Ok, the subs seem to be 12" Kickers, I have no clue how powerfull they are at all...not even sure how to find out. Everything is solid in trunk and doesn't move much???


Back doors both have this exact setup, 2 speakers on each side, again, no idea how powerfull


Back door lower speaker brand is MB Quart??


Front door has 2 speakers each as well??
 
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System seems to be powered by 2 Phoenix Gold ZX600ti amps? They are apperantly a special edition amp i read on net? From what I gather, it was one of the top models by this brand?


This is the setup on my battery?




Red Wire is connected to this breaker which in turn powers the amps (I think).




[ 01-01-2007, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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One of the Black wires seems to be connected to a breaker next to fuse box?


Out of the 4 wires on Positive terminal, 1 goes to breaker, 1 to altenator, 1 to fuse, other one i cant find end yet, cant get under car yet to follow line.

Any light you can shed on this would be really really appreciated. I have no idea what I'm working with and fed up of car not starting everyday.

Some interesting notes in case this helps...
When the breaker is off, the head unit (clarion DXZ715) still powers on. Only thing is that there is absolutely no sound. Every speaker in car will only work if breaker is on with juice flowing through amps.
I wonder if a quick and easy fix / solution is whenever i park the car for more than 4 hours to shut the breaker off, do you think this will really help any? I can always do this until i figure out the best way to get pasted this.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Tony

[ 01-01-2007, 02:27 PM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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Well first off the breaker is there to protect the amps from blowing up when there is an excess of 140 amps going to the amplifiers. So the red wire going to this is going to the amplifiers in the trunk. That is why when you turn the switch the amplifiers will not turn on nor the speakers, since the amplifiers run all the speakers.

The head unit is totally seperate and is connected to the ignition switch to power on.

One question I have for you is, when the car is totally off does your radio still turn on. If it does it may be draining your battery just enough til it does not start.

Second question is have you tried to get the battery checked. The battery may be faulty and may not be holding a charge. If it is bad I suggest you get a good battery that has alot of CCA and CA. (Cold Cranking Amps and Cranking Amps). If it is not your battery than it may be your alternator but I doubt it since the battery dies overnight.

Third question is have you checked to see if your amplifiers are turned on when the car is off. If so this could also be the problem.

LMK what you find out. Hope this helps.

Also I don't know why that black wire is connected to the fuse box. Maybe someone can chime in on this.

[ 01-01-2007, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: Silver & Black ]
 
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Thanks for the reply

These are great questions and I will be answering them all the best I can. Unfortunetly I am leaving on a business trip tomorrow and wont be back before this time next week and have already stored my car off at my parents house so I can't run and check on certain stuff :(
I wanted to get the ball rolling with my "problem" and see how much info I can get.
I can tell you for sure that when the car is totally off, no, the radio will not come on at all.
Unfortunetly I haven't had the chance to check the battery out yet. This is something i will be doing once i get back as weel. I also thought the battery may be old, however it looks fairly new and starts up very quick with little effort when system not in use.
What is the biggest battery I can put in this car? I know the room is there and I have heard something about light truck batteries fitting in this car? What kind of CCA and CA do you recommend?

Your 3rd question is key and I am curious to know this myself.
As I wasn't sure exactly what to test, I didn't play around much with it myself. I will do test # 3 once I get back and send you a PM to let you know that I have replied.

I also plan on going to a professional sound system installer and paying him to tell me exactly what I have in my car and how I can fix this once and for all. Who knows, I may even have a battery behind my subs and not know it lol


As for the wires, the Red wire goes to the "breaker box" or the thing that has the flip switch, this does not go to the fuse box after. There is a totally separate Black wire going to this fuse box and seems to end there? How would this protect the system?

Again, thanks for the suggestions and I'll get you those answers shortly.
Tony

[ 01-01-2007, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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I know the red wire goes to the fuse breaker, the breaker protects the amps from blowing when the current is to high which from what I can see your breaker is set to 140 Amps. Now if the current goes higher than this the breaker switches off, saving the life of the amps.

Now what I was saying is I don't know why the black wire goes to the fuse box cuz I have never hooked up a system that way. I doubt you have another battery hidden in the trunk since the battery under the hood has all the connections on it.

As far as the battery goes what you can do is go to AZ and see which one will fit. I usually go for the duralast gold and I believe it has 1100 CA and 800 CCA which should be more than enough power. This is the cheap route. You can also try the red optima battery but they are a little more pricey. Either will work.

Hope this clarifies what I said earlier.
 
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It does, thanks

I will try to find out why the Black wire from the battery is going to the fuse box, this fuse box was certainly added on afterwards. I will look and see if something comes out the other end and if so, where the heck is it going lol.

Tony
 
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The breaker should be to protect the car from catching on fire in the event of a short, not to protect the amplifiers. Any fusing for the purpose of protecting the amplifiers should be installed in-line right before the amps, in the trunk, or on board the amplifier itself.

Not a big deal. Just saying.
 
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Bro.

You have a cool set up. It's not cheap. The solobaric kickers pack a serious punch. MB Quart mids and highs are very good drivers for the money. I have systems similar to that installed by my buddy in all of my cars.

Obviously something is staying on and draining your system. I have a similar problem in my Rivi that will drain the battery after it's been parked for more than 2 or 3 days. In my case the problem appears to be a relay that is staying constantly on. My interim fix for this is to disconnect my battery when I am not driving the Riv.

With regards to batteries. I would strongly suggest and recommend that you get a yellow top Optima battery. These bad boys have hich CCAs and a good battery reserve. They won't leak and are built to go the distance. I have Optima yellow tops on three of my 6 cars. I am replacing them as the existing batteries begin to wear out.

As stated earlier that heavy duty relay is there to protect your amplfiers and rest of the system.

Next time you are in your vehicle sit in the vehicle after you power it down and listen for any humming or buzzing eminating from the speakers. That would be a strong indicator of something staying on.

As suggested earlier start by checking out your battery then charging system. A sound shop or auto electric shop is going to charge a pretty penny to figure that out as they will be charging an hourly shop rate to trouble shoot your system.

You might as well eliminate a few of the obvious possibilities before you start paying the hourly shop rates.

Good luck.

ps how about some pics of the rest of the car? Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
that black wire on the + is supposed to go to the aux underhood fuse box. I dont think the stock wires are colored red and black for + and -, just the connectors.

You'll have 1 wire for alt, 1 for aux box, 1 for starter, then one for your amp.
 
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Originally posted by UndercoverPunk:
The breaker should be to protect the car from catching on fire in the event of a short, not to protect the amplifiers. Any fusing for the purpose of protecting the amplifiers should be installed in-line right before the amps, in the trunk, or on board the amplifier itself.

Not a big deal. Just saying.
It is a big deal. Misinformation spreads like a plague on the net.
 
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Quickly read over the thread: but will give my own experience...

I had the same problem with daily driver. My battery was dying, which was fault of the amp not turning off. I disconnected the remote wire and the amp was still on.

To fix the problem I ran a magnet over where the remote wire connects to the amp and the little metal piece inside came loose, turning off the amp :D

Not sure if that was a good idea, but it worked for me


I ran a switch for the remote wire, so when I park for a little bit, I can throw the switch and listen for the rear sub to turn off.

 
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Hey Everyone,
I just want to thank everyone for their replies and feedback, as well as some tips on what to look for and check.
Really sorry for the late reply, was in Vegas 6 days for work and have been planing my dad's huge 50th birthday party all week so far, this is my first night on computer since I'm back and it's 10:40pm and I'm beat!

Silver & Black:
I was able to get one test you asked me to do done. With the car completly shut off and my breaker in the "on" position meaning current flowing, the amps are NOT on. I checked and the power light are completly off. They only turn on when i turn the key to the "run" postion, just before the crank. This means something else is draining the battery :(
I also did you tst #, does the radio turn on when car is totally off...the answer is no.
The head unit / radio will ONLY come on 2 ways:
A - If the car is running
B - If the key is in the Accessory position all the way back.
what I was explained when I bought the car is the if the beaker is not open to allow current to flow, none of the speaker is the car will work. Seems like 1 amp is for the subs and the other for all 8 speakers in the car. IIf switch is turned off and car is on, head unit will power up but no sound. Open the switch, amps turn on, then sound all around.
Another thing, I finally got around to looking around my car, funny thing...I discovered 2 things!
1 - seems like there was an alarm on this car at one time or another. I can see the actual alarm "horn" but have no idea if it's hooked up or wired to anything? I did not get a remote when buying the car and I beleive it's inactive. However, this may be draining somepower of mine possibly and I must take it somewhere that someone car figure out where this is hooked up to and if it's stil drawing power??
2 - I opened the arm rest in back seat and to my surprise, I found an equalizer back there lol. Someone said it was a cross over but I'm not sure of that.
Had no idea it was in there. Seems to be part of this big confusing system I have. It's hard for me to tell if this is on when i shut car off, I really don't see many lights but plan on doing a few tests this weekend when weather is a little nicer.
I called the dealer who sold me that car and he told me he "thinks" there is a capacitor out back as they did a test with the car off and the was power going through the red line still? He has no clue if this is a certainty or not, it's his educated guess. I tried to move box to look, it's fairly difficult as it's really heavy and well locked into place. I need to get back there though and have a look and get some pictures already.
Oh ya, as for that Black wire running to the fuse box, I still have no idea what it's for. Another thing to add to my "figure it out" list.

Dropped Fullsize:
Finally got a picture for you! Took it this morning

First pics of my new car!


[ 01-11-2007, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thats way better than your rusty 9C1 Quebec bucket..


About your problem, maybe you still got the alarm module hooked up draining batteries, look for sucpicious stuff under the dash, relays, extra wires, beside the amp thing.

I would try putting a Ampere meter at the battery, with the car off, these can take 10A load.

Now go in the car and pull fuses one by one till you find the leak. do the engine bay fuses too. ending by the main. You dont know where the alarm was hooked, so if you still a drain with no fuses.. look for anything connected to the battery wires in the engine bay.. else I dunno
 
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I believe you can use a test light instead of a amp meter. Disconnect the negative terminal then place a test light between the cable and the battery terminal. The light should come on if there is a drain. Pull each fuse till the light goes out. If none of them make it go out then mayby more than one of the fused circuits have a draw. Remove ALL the fuses, then insert them one by one untill the light turns on. Then remove that one, remember it. And keep putting the fuses in untill the test light comes on again.

If no fuses make the light go out I'd try removing the power cable from the batter and seeing if the light then goes out. If not, last resort, I'd then go to the Aux. battery post, loosen the nut, remove all the fusable links and touch each one against the Aux battery post seeing if one of them turns on the test light.

I'm not a mechanic or an electrician, but that's where I'd start.
 
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Ok,
I didn't think to share this little bit of info with all of you and Im sure it's important too. It totally slipped my mind, sorry fellas :(
As you are aware, with my switch on, the car lasts approx 12 hours max before battery is deader than dead. While I was away in Vegas for 6 days, I did a test; I closed the Red switch before I left and asked my dad to see if it would start up after sitting there outside for 4 days and it fired up instantly without 1 single hesitation. He ran it for approx. 5 minutes then shut her down. From there the next time i started it was 4 days later and fired up supper quick. Basically, it seems that what ever is hooked up to this "Red" cable / line is drawing all the power. So far I can tell it's not the amps, don't think it's the radio, was told it's not my EQ :confused:
I just need some way / tools or someone to figure out what is still drawing power with the line open. I also would like to know what that 3rd line is going to the extra added on fuse box?
wonder if that alarm in the car is connected to the red wire as well?

Well more to come as I continue my quest for answers and finding the time to move the box in the trunk!

Hey SSnow,
Hope you doing?! Long time no speak! Tell me about it, MUCH better than my rusted old dead 9C1. When I finally sold that one, I had approx. a 2 square foot hole underneat car from it rusting and my chair was falling through
This ride is clean, and a real Impala SS. When I got it inspected, only words the guy could say was "Imacualte" "Very Clean". Absolutely no rust under car, it's lowered and awesome system in it. Couldn't be happier!!
 
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Hey DreamSS, Congrats on your new SS! I love your install, looks Awesome.

I wanted to ask if you could take a pics of the EQ in your Arm rest in the Back seat?
 
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Ok,
It's 10pm and I cant get this challenge of mine off my mind!! I decided to venture out and try to do as much digging around as I can on my own before I pay someone to do the job for me. I pop the trunk look around, find some screws and start unscrewing! I found so much in there and took lots of pictures!

I found quite a bit as you can see in the pictures. Let me give you a little breakdown of what I found and what goes into what:
The thick Red wire with the breaker upfront makes it's way all the way into the trunk. From here it goes into a box which I have no idea what it does, but on other end of the box comes out 3 Blue wires. Please see picture 1.
The 3 Blue wires go as follows:
Wire a - Goes to + on Capacitor number 1
Wire b - Goes somewhere down below Capacitor number 1? Not sure where exactly as I could not see this far, possibly to amp number 1?
wire c - Goes to + on Capacitor number 2

Picture 1


Picture 2:
This is my first Capacitor and this is what's connected to it:
- There is a Blue wire from box in picture 1 going to positive
- Another Blue wire going from + to amp I think
- Black wire from - going all the way to "negative box" (picture 4)
- Another Black wire from - going to amp i think
- Another Black wire coming from below capacitor area (not sure where) to "negative box" (picture 4)

Picture 2


Picture 2a


Picture 3:
This is my second capacitor located on other side of trunk beside amp #2 and this is what's connected to it:
- 3rd Blue wire from box in image 1 to +
- Another Blue wire on + going to amo
- Black wire going to "negative box" (picture 4)
- Another Black wire going to amp i think?

Picture 3


Picture 4 - Negative Box


Now, for the route of all evil....drumrole please....
This piece....what is this piece??!! I am 99.9% sure this is the reason for my dead battery each night. I did some testing as everything was opened up found this out....
I opened the breaker to allow the current to flow then turned all the lights off in the garage and in the car and did a full inspection to see if any power lights were on...VOILA...one nice shiny Green "Power On" light coming out of this fellow right here! This Phoenix Gold EQ-215 is on when the breaker is on, all others are off until I start engine. Can someone confirm that this "thing" has the capability to drain my car battery with 12 hours if left on?
Now, my question to you all, HOW DO I FIX THIS lol? Why is it on all the time? How do I get this to power down even with breaker on without constantly having to turn on and off a power switch? Is this machine any good? Do i need it? Lastly, if this machine wont power down with breaker on, will something similar that does the same job power down if i buy a different model.



[ 01-13-2007, 01:08 AM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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I can't thank all of you enough for the ideas, info and tips so far. I feel like we are close to putting this one to bed!
I look forward to the continuous feedback


P.S.
If anyone thinks this is a poor setup, please let me know. Any suggestions on how to improve it or make it better by changing it would be something to consider as well. I hope this wont be required as I'm not in a good position to start spending money on this sterio however depending on the ideas, I may be able to swing a couple of dollars. I would prefer to solve this challenge by getting the EQ to shut off first and then when extra cash arrives change system setup in need be.

Thanks a million!
Tony

[ 01-13-2007, 01:15 AM: Message edited by: DREAMSS ]
 
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