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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Another thing. The number 2 cylinder wire shows in the book like its coming around from the bottom cradling the rest of the wires in a sense. I tried that because I thought that would act as a wire fastening grouping mechinism. I wound up moving it to the inside of the rest of the wires. It seems better. The other way seems like no 2 is against the AC Bracket or its lines more than it should be when I push the AC compressor up to the bracket. I guess I can finalize that more when I get there because I still need to put the Powersteering/accessory bracket plus idler on and all that freedom may change. The way the drawing looks, I feel like 4,6,8 are all inside the air tube. I've always put 6 and 8 outside to separate them from 2 and 4 a little because I could. 4 doesn't reach good outside. And 2 seems like it has way more freedom on the inside. I'll get to that too again the more closer I get. To me the book shows like ALL wires are inside the tube against the engine. My only concern is that I don't establish factory routing. I'm beginning to think it may not be possible 100% Does anybody know if all 4 wires went between the tube and the engine? And if they did, was this ever a problem spot for misfiring with these cars? Enough rambling from me.
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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I'm starting my drivers side wire change. here's a before look at my wires on the drivers side at the Opti. Itss probably worth looking at the condition of the vent harness. I'm interested in knowing if they are available as a new item/harness. When I changed the optispark, I checked vacuum or air quantity. If I remember the optis are not air tight and all that stuff. It was functioning (Not 100 percent but accepted what it was because people said its common I think) and passed my visual inspection so I left it at that. I didn't seal the case in the option. I didn't want to void a 400 dollar AC Delco opti spark return option from Summit. I live in california. Don't drive it too much. What else...
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Here is the passenger side clip. It's the same item as my missing one on the drivers side. That is the one where the book says its OK to leave out the metal arm bracket (not the clip!). Probably worth a pretty penny used. Anyway, that's what it looks like. Mine seems to be in good shape. The other side too. snaps on nicely. Both snap ends are exact. They only look different from the camera angle.
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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Here is the larger 3/4 section complete on my old wires. Again, I'm doing the conduit work on the old wires to minimize any abuse to the new wires. The cylinder 1 wire seems to work better routed around the outside (at this point) of the 3/4 conduit (shown in picture with red annotations). You could do either and the future shows I ran it inside. There are two issues with choosing this. 1. The wires seem to be a little long at the 4 bends up to the opti spark coming out the 4 way clip causing me to want to flop the 3/4 conduit towards the block or onto the motor mount somewhat. This leads to a reason for the long wire/s after the 4 way clip. The book shows plug wires 3 and 5 boots aiming "what looks like" towards the ground. This can't be true in real life situation since the boot is directly over cylinder 3 clip contrary to the book showing the clip centered between cylinder 3 and 5. You could run 5 down but I don't see the point in having such a sharp bend into the 2 way clip retainer holder (the centered one between cylinder 3 and 5 in the book which is not true). I feel like leaving an plus amount out below the 4 way clip with a softer bend into the opti is better. Less heat on the boot and wire from the down pipe flange since it's further away when aimed towards the clip. Having sharper bends stretches the silicone wire coating too on its edge? Heat maybe deteriorating the bend quicker. My opinion would be probably. I am going to be adding an extra length of conduit (indicated on picture with yellow 1,2 markings) to cylinder number 7 going up to the 2 way clip. The book shows conduit but the clip is positioned wrong in the book. In real life you automatically end up with more bare wire than the book shows. You can see the extra lengths of bare wire (shows a little in book but not real life situation).
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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Here is an view of the opti side showing cylinder 5 having the most bend stick out. This is the same wire I commented on not wanting the sharp bend into the clip. It's the #5 cylinder wire next to the hot down pipe flange. The rest seem the same legnth for the most part. For cylinder 7 and the 3 way clip issue, it seems you wouldn't even need a clip the way mine is such a small 180 into the channel. Im undecided on that one. There isn't much to pull towards the firewall through the channel anyways from this opti view anyways. I have to make a decision regardless. Note that this is all AC Delco professional wires set (GM 88862413 ACD #9718F)
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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Ater backing off the closest to opti boots vent spring clamp with deep needle nose pliers, I removed the old cylinder 1 wire. I'm finding that I could add another 2 inches to the opti side of the wires with conduit. So, 2 pieces at 6 inches is my cylinder 1 conduit figure. The distance of the wire is 12. So 12 cut in center is what I'm going with. The conduit is spring ish so it can be pulled apart to place it in the 4 way clip.
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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Leaving the above cylinder 1 wire prepped on the floor because it's in the way of the rest going upward on the opti, I've pulled the next boot on the opti. That's cylinder 7 and it is farthest wire including that it goes in the channel. Besides unclipping the double retainer, and unclamping the larger conduit collection of 3 wires, I'm pulling the channel to get this next cylinder 7 wire in to the back. This also requires making the the larger 3/4 diameter piece of conduit. I will post that cylinder 7 conduit length and the 3/4 conduit length following this post. The opti shot is showing I pulled cylinder 7. Note, the channel bolts hex is a 3/8 on my car both sides of the engine. not 8,9,10mm like I stated before. Those were just how many times I tried to get the correct wrench. *Reminder: Only loosen the "short" 3/8 bolt enough because the space is difficult to get the bolt restarted if you back it out all the way. The FSM says this too. also be careful to not unthread it with the plate edge of the channel.
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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Frontside channel bolt removed, wire pulled at plug, it is possible to leave the channel support resting there I THINK. I'm going to pull the old wire and set the new on e back in with the adjusted conduit size. Again, I will post the length size of the conduits (2 pieces).
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
They are 15-1/2 inches for the cylinder 7 channel wire and 7-1/4 inches for the 3/4 diameter (x3 wire collection) larger conduit. I don't think I'll need trimming for the Cylinder 7 but will say it's not impossible after being installed for the most part. We will see. Last note: The new cylinder 7 plug wire seems to be 1/2 inch longer. I guess they can vary. If heat shrank mine...I don't believe it.
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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Sliding over cylinder 3 and 5, I left the dielectric grease out for the moment so no crud sticks to it in any case. Notice I have the boot aiming down also so no crud falls in the boot. I suppose it's maybe mandatory to dielectric prior in a regular wire change. I have my control arms off and out so this is much easier. Hopefully all this post has some offerings of help to others.
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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
I successfully routed the Cylinder 7 wire like said above, The wire was stuffed in the channel and I loosely reset the front short 3/8 wrench bolt for the channel support. The conduit measurement seems fine to me. it stops at the 2 way clip. A 1/4 inch more at the plug wouldn't hurt but the conduit can be stretched that much. Maybe mine is in its compressed state. I'm not too worried about that. Cylinder 3 and 5 wires go into the 3/4 conduit so I think I'm ready to pull cylinder wire 5.
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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
I pulled 5 from the opti and the plug leaving cylinder 3 on. it's a tight pull off at the top of the opti but I did it. I kncked my middle finger just above my nail on the air pump bolt so be careful-thicker Gloves-I was using elastic. I added 2- 3/4 inch of conduit from plug 5 to the clip. I then fastened it. I'm happy with that (btw missing in the book). Note: plug boots are not snapped on plugs yet. Dielectric grease on final pass.
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Now for the cylinder 3 wire. using a rubber dotted gardening glove this time for grip and protection on my left hand (using elastic gloves wasn't enough protection on my right hand before), I pulled cylinder 3 at the opti and spark plug. I put the 6 inch piece of 3/4 conduit around the cylinder wire 3. Labeling the cylinder 5 and 7 on the opti side boot of these wires is important at this step or else they will need to be figured with the conduit surrounding the three wires hiding what you created. labeling 3 (not in pic) before also would benefit. it's 2 pieces of 4.5 mm conduit on cylinder wire 5 and 7 to the left of the two way clip and a 1 inch piece of conduit on cylinder wire 3 left of the clip. these 3 go into the conduit and get snapped in the largeer 3/4 clip. Tightening the channel bolts at this step happened too but better to tighten them any time before this but only possible after the channeled #7 wire is tucked in obviously.
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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Using a new 4 way clip as my old one has a loose anchoring to the arm problem, I placed the cylinder 1 wire on the bottom slot opposite the hinging side of the clip. I put the same #1 cylinder wire on the spark plug, dangling the rest of the wire down to the 4 way clips anchor area. Here is where labeling the opti boots adds help . Now place labeled boots 1,7,3,5 in this order going upward in the clip. snap shut the clip. Done correct believe. I believe I can finalize by placing new sized pieces of 3/8 conduits forward the 4 way locked clip up to the opti boots on all 4 wires. At this point there's 3 conduits left to trim in. The factory ones were a bit short for whatever reason. Not that I'm saying it's important but whatever helps protect is why I'm extending them . New conduit wouldn't hurt either as it will reset its lifespan hopefully.
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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Don't pay attention to the numbers written on the blue tape according to what slot they are in on the 4 way clip. Although they are correct for firing order on the opti, they didn't finalize in the clip this nice pictured way when I put the opti boots on the opti. 2 were crossed looking. These blue tape numbers winding up in the wrong clip slots is because I assumed the wires went up hill in the slots like the engine goes back from 1. ie 1,3,5,7. I had 1,3,5,7 within post 57, instructing (previous post before editing) to place numbers in slots going uphill in the 4 way clip in the order of the cylinders from the front of the car to the back. In other words,, on the opti going up its 1,7,3,5. not 1,3,5,7 like the engine going back.. They are not the same. Anyway, place 1,7,3,5 in the clip from bottom slot upward.. Then snap shut the clip for nice arrangement. My mistake. just clarifying for anyone that wants to focus on the tape numbers to clip and end wondering why they have a crossed looking placement compared to mine in my next photos. it's because I unclipped the wires after the pic was taken and rearranged them before taking the finished picture in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Here is the end of the run. I've trimmed in the opti ends with 3/8 conduit. The yellow marking is because I'm debating if trimming about an inch off the 3/4 would help as all 3 wires seem to want to spread the conduit into the 4 way clip. Would trimming an inch reduce the chance of cross any leakage crossfire within wires later down the road? idk. .....What's the difference in the next 5 inches. The Factory did at least 4 to 5 inches. Feedback from previous experiences? Anyone?
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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
My next step will be combing over the job with dielectric grease and a q tip starting with plug wire 7 at cylinder 7 working forward towards the opti tomorrow. All boots are half plugged waitiing. Picture for appreciation of a satisfactory result. Note the cylinder 1 wire. I have routed it behind the 3/4 conduit. That's, the bend at the neck of the boot is not as much as the photo shows. In front of the 3/4 or behind is preference in my opinion even though I feel 8n this instance it naturally seems to want to be behind holding that 3/4 out where it seems better too.
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