[helpthe95]

For the record of this job, I've measured my remaining piece of 3/8 conduit. I have 5'6" left (5 feet, six inches) from the 10 foot piece I purchased. it took 4 1/2 feet for AC Delco Wires.

 

[BIGBODY9SIX]

Great info and write up again with pics im def studying them closely

 

[helpthe95]

Great info and write up again with pics im def studying them closely

Thanks.

 

[helpthe95]

Starting the passenger side. I don't know how else one would do this job besides follow the book. I know the book says to remove the powersteering pump. That may seem like a lot of work but "maybe" that's the best and easiest way since one would want to service their pump or flush the power steering system the same weekend. Maybe change out their PS lines too if they are contaminated original. I notice two things on this side. There is a threaded stud for some type of fastening point. I'm not sure if it's to hold this other wiring (water temp/ harness I think) or something else like a ground I don't know about. I added a nut to it so I can figure out something on the way out of this ignition wiring project. There is also some type a clamp receptacle/hole tab for a conduit clamp or christmas tree clip. The drivers side has a unused one too so whatevers on that one. Note: This new double wire clip for me was easier to put on after I put the front short hex bolt on through the wire support here-The double clip gets in the way of your hands when trying to start the bolt threads in. So in the event you pull the support like I did, I found it easier to put the front clip on after. You also need to fold the clip almost shut to fit it between the engine mount and being aligned with the metal slide lock tab. I didn't annotate the bottom slot of the double clip because I'm not 100 percent the cylinder number at this point.

 

[helpthe95]

I went ahead and taped and labeled this sides wires before. I recommend doing this on the other side too. Waiting till just before the conduit on the drivers side only made potential for confusion. Plus make sure the tape can wrap all the way around the boot so the tape can grab itself. Masking tape sticks poorly to this rubber and I had one of my labels fall off after replacing them on the opti. It wasn't a huge deal but not need for any unwanted confusion when dealing with firing order. *second reminder on the firing order going up the opti. The wire boots do "not" climb up going 2,4,6,8 like I talked about on the other side. Picture posted for that info.

 

[helpthe95]

It's easier to see now that I have conduit on the drivers side and pulled and tied the AC Compressor against the frame towards the blinker direction. it's on a swingish rope up to the alternator post bracket down to the pully so it swings towards the blinker corner/vapor canister direction to see here. I dielectric greased each plug and inside of its corresponding boot starting with cylinder 8 into the Single slit clip. Opposite the photo above I decided it best to run it on the bottom slot on the forward double slot clip since cylinder 8 wire is on the bottom half of the opti. Next the cylinder 6 wire skips that first 1 slot clip and gets clipped on the top side of the double slot clip. The rest is all wires going "over" the air tube "and AC Bracket. Cylinder wire 2 appears from the underside of all 3 conduits replicating the book. I think this is it at this point. For the legnths, I can't provide any numbers as I put them on after I got the wires in. It's easier this way as I started the conduit on #8, slide/fed it to the clipmand snipped it at the plug boot neck. Going about plus a 1/4 is a good feel then push it on giving Natural nice fit. Then between the clips on wire 8 for the 2 inch section immediately following with number six the same from the plug to the clip. The rest cylinder 4 and 2 I fed from the bottom laying on my back. it slides to where it needs to be just making sure to get up and check the wheel well side for a good pulled to the plug etc. fit before snipping the final size cuts. The only thing left is to dielectric grease the opti side boots. I think this is it. I hope. If I'm not getting the routing correct near the bracket please point out why. It looks like it's good to go. I don't see any other way, for example in front of the tube or over the bracket any better-especially with that conduit. It sems to fit perfect.

 

[helpthe95]

Another view of the 3 wires traveling over the bracket. Reminder that the AC is not in place against against the bracket. I believe it fits but the picture wouldn't reveal this view if I had it where it's supposed to go. Note. I'm aware of the slot people cut in the AC/engine bracket easier maintenance (research of the forum will show this topic) At this point, I have not seen any reason to slot mine unless I can't get the top AC bolt on. Finally I pointed out in another thread that My reputable AC guy may have left out both bolts for the slot reason when he replaced my compressor. I thought it was one bolt, but the other day found the compressor has 2. I'm only in possession of 1 that I sourced from a nutsnbolts collection. We'll see how that all goes back together when I get to it as I'm not sure my situation on that.

 

[helpthe95]

View from underneath trimming in conduit at the opti. Note the #2 cylinder wire conduit going up from under the rest of the wires.

 

[BALLSS]

Few ways to skin this cat OP....having done this a few times on my 96 I find just removing the brackets from engine and assembling them on bench then installing both sides from under the car works best. Only thing I do remove is starter to access PS. Everything else I leave. Mine are always installed through all factory brackets & clips and new grey stripe split loom. I use the P touch label maker for wire #'s

I do remove RF tire to access #2# 4 plugs R&R. starter is out for # 6, 8 from up top. 1,3,5 from up top, 7 from below.

This is with headers, have not had stock exhaust manifolds for 23 years

 

[helpthe95]

Adding a zip tie to bracket arm loosely to hold the bottom wire boot square so to speak aligned with the others. The dielectric grease makes them la loose grip on the plastic(on the plugs as well). This bottom one seems to want to flop up or down and I don't want it resting on the other wires is I can help it until it sticks over time. Book is 30lb ft torque on the bracket bolt.

 

[helpthe95]

Out of 10 feet, there was about 7 inches remaining of the 3/8 conduit. I believe I covered every inch of my wires besides behind that 3/4 conduit.

 

[helpthe95]

Well, including the coil wire, I came up an inch short. I can put a little snip of old on the remainder. Next time call it 11 feet to be safe.

 

[BIGBODY9SIX]

So you need 2 size of wire loom correct. Sizes again?

 

[helpthe95]

So you need 2 size of wire loom correct. Sizes again?

Yes. I used 2 sizes of wire loom. I used 10 feet of 3/8 for the wires alone (that's both sides of the engine). And for the other size loom (3/4), I cut a roughly six inch section off the 1 foot of 3/4 for the drivers side where 3 wires are bundled in that larger clip. This all is trying to match the FSM.

 

[BIGBODY9SIX]

Ok and where to order again? I only seem like a can find the look but doesnt have the grey strip on it and also where could i find the metal boot that goes on the plugs in the back i just noticed mines are missing and wonder why my #7 plug went bad 🤔

 

[BIGBODY9SIX]

Beacause you only need the metal spark plug bood shield for 5,7 & 8 correct?

 

[helpthe95]

Ok and where to order again? I only seem like a can find the look but doesnt have the grey strip on it and also where could i find the metal boot that goes on the plugs in the back i just noticed mines are missing and wonder why my #7 plug went bad 🤔

I purchased my grey stripe wire loom at www.wiringproducts.com. scroll down on the left to wiring loom. Then it's the middle higher temp loom. That's what I bought. I used 3/8 for the wires and 3/4 for the section on the drivers side rear the air pump. Mine arrived with a grey stripe.

 

[helpthe95]

Beacause you only need the metal spark plug bood shield for 5,7 & 8 correct?

I believe so. Mine had the aluminum shields on only 8, 5 and 7.... I think they are discontinued. I've seen them on ebay time to time. Probably a good idea to not run without them.

 

[BIGBODY9SIX]

Thanks for the link. You thinking leaving them off be fine??

 

[helpthe95]

Thanks for the link. You thinking leaving them off be fine??

Leaving the spark plug boot shields off? No, not really. I don't recommend it.. They are designed to absorb the heat and do not contact the boot on the total surface of the surface of the boot. This minimal contact ( 2 points) keeps them boots surface from cooking. If they cook and dry out, then you will get spark coming through the dry boot causing misfires. This is the reason for the design and they must have put them there because the extra heat on the manifolds. Could you run to the really near by store in the morning for something in an emergency? Probably. But I'm talking a few blocks with time to cool between. I wouldn't make it a habit. All that work to minimize the same work.