I sprayed sensor cleaner on it and metal dust was stuck to it. The sensor had a couple dings or abrasions on the side of the cylinder (side of sensor if you will). Anyway, It was metal mixed in with dirty oil. Sprayed the dirty oil away and metal dust had to be removed with a rag and repeat until clean.Impressive. Soak that in solvent and see if it's mostly metal. Or just dirty (never changed) lube. You're in deep enough to just go get a reader. Cheap like this, or up to $10x more. Or a close friend with one for OBD1.
Decades ago I bought brandnew oem replacements for 2 sensors that went bad almost the same time, and after going batsh(ii)t for a week I did a simple check and found one was bad right out of the bag. Re-replacement and all better. Maybe a simple continuity check on those 2 news ones? And even the 3rd one in the rear? It seems the tiniest debris or nick can kill a lead over time.....Are you sure that thing will read ABS codes on my 1995 Impala SS? .....
No. Not sure at all. Just offering a way to clear the roadblock. You'd need to search on here a bit to see what others have found that works.
...... I traced the cable and nothing looks bad. ......
Yeah, I hear you and thanks for trying to open the roadblock. I have the FSM. I’m going to start checking continuity on the three sensors. There is a write up by somebody named Goldwagon. It talks about how many ohms they are supposed to be. I’m not sure if it’s the vehicle side or the sensor side.Decades ago I bought brandnew oem replacements for 2 sensors that went bad almost the same time, and after going batsh(ii)t for a week I did a simple check and found one was bad right out of the bag. Re-replacement and all better. Maybe a simple continuity check on those 2 news ones? And even the 3rd one in the rear? It seems the tiniest debris or nick can kill a lead over time.
Otherwise, have you considered hunting down a FSM? Mine has saved me $Cs in parts, $Ms in wasted time, and $MMs in stress.
Question: this has been nagging me since I caught your OP. Is that oem style tip sensor more than 6 months old? I've NEVER heard one any older ever coming out of the hole intact considering how they weld themselves in from the expanded rusted metal dust.
Thanks for the reply. I’ve read your post and agree with what you are saying. As for going to the dealer and having them run ABS scan that will be a last resort. I already have discovered 2 problems in the rear end case.An OBD1 reader of any flavor will not be able to read codes on the ABS system. They are independant. If you are stuck, go to the dealer and simply ask them to diagnose the problem (for a fee). Turning the car on and off 100 times will just wear out the key and switch ... the ABS failure will clear if the ABS system is repaired. It does not keep the light on for any longer than it takes to fix it.
Problems with the ABS computer / motor cannot really be fixed by typical wrenching, though it rarely fails. The typical fault is with the wiring or sensor. One of the tests the ABS system does when powered up is to check the resistance of the sensors. I'm thinking somewhere around 2K ohms (but that's from memory, so check that). If out of range, it sets the light. It also pulses the brake system ever so slightly to verify some operation or other. You can actually feel that if you are perceptive. That failure will also set the ABS light.
Your condition of your differential sensor is somewhat worrisome. Differential fluid should not turn gooey, even stuck on a sensor. You might (at some point) want to pull the diff cover and check, drain, and change the fluid. Metal particles in the diff are not actually that common, unless there are wear issues. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. As to an answer to your question “what prompted replacing both fronts at the same time to start with? I replaced both fronts to start with because this: I bought the car about 10 years ago. I can’t remember if the ABS light was on or not because the passkey was on. I’m guessing the ABS was on and the previous owner told me it was only because the 24 inch wheels or it only needed a sensor. Something like that. I didn’t know about ABS as much then as I do now. Anyway, a long while back, I discovered when I changed my front brakes one day, air found my 24 inch rim edge cut my drivers side sensor cable where it routes along the frame. This cut happening as I do U turns or turn sharp. While I’m answering, the inside of the rim also cut a groove in my front sway bar on the passenger side. I’m guessing that after the groove got deeper on the passenger side sway bar, the inside of the rim got closer to the sensor cable on the drivers side. I’m not sure as I don’t see any grooves on the drivers side cable cut side at the time. Maybe the rubber of the tire grabbed the cable and cut it. If I remember correctly, the rubber may have cut the cable enough to expose that the cable itself was cut through one of the two wires inside this sensor cable. Long story short, IIt's always entertaining (well, for us on this side tryna' guess what's up, but not you having to live through hell) when more detail and background comes to light. At this point really wondering any more you can add. I mighta' missed it, but what prompted replacing both fronts at the same time to start with? How long you been without ABS in the first place? 135k is hardly any miles for our car, so how'd the reluctor go lame? How long have you had the car, and any rear work in its history?