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Discussion Starter #1
What does everyone use for a replacement steering box? I just replaced mine about 3 years ago, car is not a daily driver, and am being told there is a good 2 in of play in the box and the shop does not want to align it or play with tightening the box. Any suggestions would be helpful.


Thanks
Mike
 

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I would also take a close look at the Intermediate shaft and the rag joint. They are known to cause a lot of play and some switch over to the Jeep Shaft for this reason.

The box itself can also be adjusted. There are threads here that talk about that and the process to do it. you may want to try and adjust the box and see where that gets you.

to answer your question, I bought a new box from Advance years ago. I wanted the Quick Ratio unit and at the time 1 of the brands they carried was Fenco? and believe this is what I got. don't believe they carry the same but usually offer the std. ration and a Quick ratio box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would also take a close look at the Intermediate shaft and the rag joint. They are known to cause a lot of play and some switch over to the Jeep Shaft for this reason.

The box itself can also be adjusted. There are threads here that talk about that and the process to do it. you may want to try and adjust the box and see where that gets you.

to answer your question, I bought a new box from Advance years ago. I wanted the Quick Ratio unit and at the time 1 of the brands they carried was Fenco? and believe this is what I got. don't believe they carry the same but usually offer the std. ration and a Quick ratio box.

Yea the rag joint and shaft are still stock, and maybe I will look at converting the shaft to something more accurate


Thanks.


Mike
 

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I would adjust the steering box before replacing the shaft. It is a lot easier to adjust when you put it on the bench. You need an inch/lb. torque wrench, and a socket to fit the end of the input shaft. When adjusting the input bearing, always approach center clockwise, or the shaft will push out on the bearing, and you will not get an adjustment. Adjusting the input bearing will probably remove 80% of the play. You can do it in the car, but it is a little bit crowded in that area. It is easiest to remove the box by detaching the Pittman arm from the cross link, and using it as a handle for the box.


If the upper boot is ripped, you probably need a new upper shaft. The rag joint can be repaired with a kit from your local parts store in the HELPs section. Unless there is play in the rag joint, it is probably fine. The rag joint does not make the shaft less accurate, it is only there to stop the transmission of vibrations through the steering column. The rag joint is not even designed to flex to any degree.


If you want a Jeep shaft, the one to get is for a 91-93 Cherokee. You can get them new on Amazon for a reasonable price; about $120. The chances that a new shaft will eliminate the play is about 2%. The play is almost always in the steering box. If you are going to go cheap, and get a used Jeep shaft, make sure the shaft does not click when twisted. The click is a sign of worn bearing surfaces in the universal joints, and that will translate into play in the steering.


If you are going to replace the steering box, the quick ratio units have an Z on the top, and the standard ratio does not.
 

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If the upper boot is ripped, you probably need a new upper shaft. The rag joint can be repaired with a kit from your local parts store in the HELPs section. Unless there is play in the rag joint, it is probably fine. The rag joint does not make the shaft less accurate, it is only there to stop the transmission of vibrations through the steering column. The rag joint is not even designed to flex to any degree.
What is this repair kit you speak of?

My rubber boot has failed. There's nothing wrong with my steering....yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would adjust the steering box before replacing the shaft. It is a lot easier to adjust when you put it on the bench. You need an inch/lb. torque wrench, and a socket to fit the end of the input shaft. When adjusting the input bearing, always approach center clockwise, or the shaft will push out on the bearing, and you will not get an adjustment. Adjusting the input bearing will probably remove 80% of the play. You can do it in the car, but it is a little bit crowded in that area. It is easiest to remove the box by detaching the Pittman arm from the cross link, and using it as a handle for the box.


If the upper boot is ripped, you probably need a new upper shaft. The rag joint can be repaired with a kit from your local parts store in the HELPs section. Unless there is play in the rag joint, it is probably fine. The rag joint does not make the shaft less accurate, it is only there to stop the transmission of vibrations through the steering column. The rag joint is not even designed to flex to any degree.


If you want a Jeep shaft, the one to get is for a 91-93 Cherokee. You can get them new on Amazon for a reasonable price; about $120. The chances that a new shaft will eliminate the play is about 2%. The play is almost always in the steering box. If you are going to go cheap, and get a used Jeep shaft, make sure the shaft does not click when twisted. The click is a sign of worn bearing surfaces in the universal joints, and that will translate into play in the steering.


If you are going to replace the steering box, the quick ratio units have an Z on the top, and the standard ratio does not.

I just put a steering box go and the car is not a daily, it shouldn't need adjustment already??


And thanks for the info!


Mike
 

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You can find the repair kit here: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-steering-coupling-disc-kit-31000/5014336-P?searchTerm=dorman+-+help+rag+joint


When the upper boot is damaged, water can get to the joint, and it will deteriorate over time. Depending on how long the boot has been damaged, it can affect the tightness of the joint. The boot is not available to the best of my knowledge.
I believe the headers toasted it. So it hasn't been that long. Maybe a year and it's not a DD. Doesn't get driven in the rain/snow/etc.

So this repair kit is for that joint or am I reading it wrong?
 

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Like the title says, it is the rag joint. Unless it is loose, it does not need to be repaired.
 
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