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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i have checked pretty much all old topics about this same problem, and here i am with same problem. Some information about my car before i start with the problems. I have rebuilt everything expect springs and steering damper on front end. The problem is that when i turn slighty to right steering wont return to center, if i turn slighty to left return is good. Also car seems to be pulling slighty to right and if its going pretty much straight and i hit a small bumb etc on the road car yanks the wheel to right, if i don't hold the steering wheel. When im on highway and i let hands off the wheel it will start to change lanes slowly to right. Sometimes i have to hold wheel at 11 clock to go straight. Car had an alignment after rebuild. Anyone know what to do/look next?

Here are the alignment specs.
Caster left / right
3,86 / 3,90
Camber left / right
0,8 / 0,6
Toe left / righ
0,12 / 0,13
 

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From my limited experience.

Rag joint goes bad so the steering wheel has a ton of play. Replace it with a jeep steering shaft and tighten the steering box just a bit.

Could be also be a bad bushing somewhere? One of my spring isolators felt out on the rear (since my springs are super short and lifting the car by the frame will make it fall out) and the car became a handful to control.
 

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I'm guessing there is a bump steer problem somewhere given the info that when you hit a bump, the car steers hard to the right. Maybe one of the parts is incorrect? If the idler, pitman arm or center link are off by even just a little bit (5mm) it will have big bump steer problems. Similarly with the lower ball joints, if they're not seated all the way, can cause bump steer issues.

Were there any problems with the installation of all the new parts? Do you still have the old parts to do a visual comparison to? What was the reason for replacing all the parts in the first place?
 

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To regurgitate some of fixuntilbroke

Because this is " to one side " deal,
see if center link is level across the car.
Are the outer tie rods the same angle to the ground as each other?
Outer tie rods same height?

Tires, you can have a pretty good pull from tire construction ( conicity )
The test is move the front tires left to right.
If the pull stops or goes the other way tires.

Likely not tires but free to check
 

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I would check the shim stacks for camber and caster. Some or all of the shims may have fallen out. When the car is moving, the tension on the suspension may cause the upper arm to deflect.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys for giving some good tips. I visually inspected center link and outer tie rod, they seem okay. I will probably try swapping front tires. Passenger side front tire seems to have uneven wear pretty much across the thread, so this is probably tire that has bad/shifted belt right?. Can bad belt in tire cause this weird wear? Front end rebuild and alignment was done last summer. I have driven probably couple thousand kilometres after that, but i cant remember correctly did my car pull back then, i guess not, because if it did i would have probably taken car back to alignment shop. Other tires seems ok. Shims are in correct place and nuts are tight. Also i described the bumb yank as a hard yank, its not hard at all. What i meant is that if as a example i go slow (5-20kmh) and my car happens to go pretty much straight at this moment and then i hit just a small bumb my steering wheel starts to turn slowly small amount to right without hands on the wheel.
 

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This is hard to explain and not written in stone.

An alignment related pull typically, you are holding the wheel straight to go straight.

Tire pull, you are holding the wheel off center to go striaght.
Let go of wheel, it goes back to center, car waits a second or two then starts to drift off .
It is an odd sensation .
The above was my observation over the years, not written .
Conicity , think of rolling an ice cream cone across a table.

Subtle cord issues from manufacturing can be visibly undetectable.
These tires can live a happy life on the back of the car.
Bad shift, damaged cords can show visibly.
If your horrific wear showed up after the alignment, possibly they plain screwed up the settings ?

Core pull tires hiding on rear are always fun for shops doing regular service.
Car comes in for a LOF , brake check.
Tech does a free rotation
Owner comes back " you changed my oil now my car pulls and the steering wheel is off center."
Been there done that 🙁
 

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Hey guys i have checked pretty much all old topics about this same problem, and here i am with same problem. Some information about my car before i start with the problems. I have rebuilt everything expect springs and steering damper on front end. The problem is that when i turn slighty to right steering wont return to center, if i turn slighty to left return is good. Also car seems to be pulling slighty to right and if its going pretty much straight and i hit a small bumb etc on the road car yanks the wheel to right, if i don't hold the steering wheel. When im on highway and i let hands off the wheel it will start to change lanes slowly to right. Sometimes i have to hold wheel at 11 clock to go straight. Car had an alignment after rebuild. Anyone know what to do/look next?

Here are the alignment specs.
Caster left / right
3,86 / 3,90
Camber left / right
0,8 / 0,6
Toe left / righ
0,12 / 0,13
IMO your problem is the settings used. You need more caster overall and more on the right side. For example I would run 4 to 4.5 on the left and 4.5 to 5 on the right. Ideally you want .5 to 1.0 more on the right than the left in order to combat road crown which is why your pulling to the right. I think 4.5 left and 5.0 right would work better than what you have now. The extra caster will not only make the car track better, but it will improve the steering back to center. When I had my 96 SS I ran 5.5 left and 6.2 right caster with -0.8 camber on both sides. The handling and tire wear were great with these settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually yesterday checked the camber with my carpenter bubble level, passenger side is a lot more positive, driver side bubble was on almost center. Gonna probably add an 1/8" shim or something to correct the problem and then check again. On FSM there is that chart, am i reading it correctly if for example it says +100 to correct 0,6 degrees, do i count it 0,030+0,060+0,060inches of shims. Fortunately i have moved to another city in Finland after the last alignment, here in new place there is not a single alignment/tire shop that has correct or old enough device to fit on the back wheels and to rotate enough to get a results from laser device. So that's why have i have to go DIY way on this problem. Another question is what is the correct part number for new nuts to upper control arm shaft nuts (rockauto) or do i just buy some good grade self locking nuts from hardware store.
 
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